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October Garden Task
It’s time for spring-flowering bulbs to go in, trees and shrubs to be planted, perennials divided, and mulch applied to beds to protect and build soil.
October is also a month to take pause. Soak up the fall colors and the changing sunlight!
Vegetables
?œ³?¸? Plant onion sets, garlic, cabbage, collards, swiss chard and kale.
?œ³?¸? Watch for green worms on broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and collards.
Perennials & annuals
?œ³?¸? Continue to dig and divide spring and early summer-blooming perennials before the foliage dies back. Daylilies, Hostas and Shasta daisies are some examples.
?œ³?¸? Plant identification markers beside your herbaceous perennials before they die back for the winter so you won’t disturb them when planting in the spring.
?œ³?¸? Leave seed-bearing perennials -- ornamental grasses, coneflower, sunflowers, black-eyed Susan -- to feed the birds and provide cover for beneficial insects over the winter.
Bulbs
?œ³?¸? Plant spring-blooming bulbs from late October through December.
?œ³?¸? Keep your bulbs in the refrigerator until you’re ready to plant them.
Trees & shrubs
?œ³?¸? It’s the best time to plant new trees and shrubs.
?œ³?¸? Start that fall leaf pile!
?œ³?¸? Watch for lace bugs on azalea and pyracantha.
Lawns
?œ³?¸? Aerate your lawn.
?œ³?¸? Coring lawns can help to minimize compaction and improve rooting.
?œ³?¸? Plant cool-season grasses like tall fescue.
Remember: DO NOT PRUNE shrubs or trees in late summer or early autumn. Pruning stimulates new growth which may not have time to harden off before frost. You can remove any deadwood from shrubs or trees.
Houseplants that spent the summer outdoors should be cleaned up and brought indoors when night temperatures fall below 50 degrees.
For more info, click here October Gardening in the Piedmont - Mecklenburg Extension Master Gardener?„ Volunteers (mastergardenersmecklenburg.org)
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North Carolina’s Great Pumpkin Patch
by EMG Gina Tadle
Did you know that North Carolina produces close to 80 million pounds of pumpkins per year? Last year, North Carolinians planted 4,400 acres of pumpkins that totaled more than $18.2 million worth of pumpkins! Good Grief, Charlie Brown!
North Carolina growers can farm a variety of pumpkins, some of which include Big Max, Happy Jack, Sugar Pie, and Autumn Gold. Worldwide, there are over 150 varieties of this nutritious fruit. Pumpkins contain vitamins A and B as well as potassium. One can also roast the pumpkin seeds for a delicious treat.
Considering planting your own pumpkin patch next spring? Well, then, consider which variety to choose because the grow time varies from 85 days to maturity up to 120 days. Pumpkins also require full sun, soil that drains well, and much water. Scope out a nice sunny spot, add compost or peat moss to poor draining soil, and don’t forget to water. Summers are getting hotter and pumpkin patches may require more water than usual. Start with one inch of water a week in the beginning and two inches during the last 30 days of the growing season.
Enjoy your pumpkin patch, North Carolina! Happy Fall Y’all!
Photos courtesy of Kim Holt
Farm Facts: Pumpkins - North Carolina Field and Family (ncfieldfamily.org)
Planting pumpkins for prime harvesting in the fall (tamu.edu)
Growing Pumpkins for the Home Garden | Mississippi State University Extension Service (msstate.edu)
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Red Spider Lilies
By EMG Rebecca Jones
After a sweltering summer, just as the maple and dogwood leaves begin to redden, something magical appears in our southern landscapes each September. Showy coral-red flower sepals, 3 to 6 inches long, curl from the umbel with filament-thin stamens that resemble daddy long-legs spiders, hence the name, spider lily. They bloom on tall, bare stalks and by October, grayish-green leaves similar to liriope emerge, remain through winter and die back in the spring.
The red spider lily, (Lycoris radiata) native to China, Japan, Korea and Nepal, is a small, perennial bulb in the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae) with the genus name Lycoris which honors the Roman actress and mistress of Mark Antony and symbolizes the beginning of fall on the autumnal equinox. Common names include equinox flower, hurricane lily, naked lily, red magic lily, red surprise lily, spider lily and schoolhouse lily.
Captain William Roberts, an amateur botanist, brought three bulbs to the U.S. in 1854 from Japan. Their offspring continue to flourish in gardens and woodlands throughout the South.
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Although red spider lilies will grow in full sun to shade, optimal flowering occurs in partial shade with four hours of sun. Plant the bulbs 6 to 12 inches apart in rich, well-drained soil with the neck exposed. They naturalize easily and can be propagated by division. Allow the foliage to die back naturally so the bulbs’ stored food supply is strengthened. When planting in a container, choose one large enough to accommodate the extensive root system.
Be patient. It may take several years for blooms to appear. Red spider lilies complement walkways, formal gardens and shady areas. They are lovely planted in informal drifts to naturally multiply, surrounded by groundcover, ferns or hostas.
Photos courtesy of EMG Rebecca Jones
Research Sources:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu – North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
https://surry.ces.ncsu.edu – NC Cooperative Extension – Surry County Center
https://hgic.clemson.edu – Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center
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Leave the Leaves!
By EMG Alden Pickard
Every autumn, like clockwork, the leaves of deciduous trees in Eastern North America change color and fall to the ground. The oak, maple, and cherry trees in our home landscape are no different. Quite literally, these fallen leaves fertilize the forest and provide critical habitat for countless species of insects, reptiles, birds, and mammals. All too often, common practice by homeowners is to bag these leaves up and cart them away. There are many reasons why you should change this habit and leave the leaves instead.
Let's start with wildlife. Leaves don’t fall from trees in isolation from the environment. The larvae, and pupa of beneficial butterflies and moths hitch a ride on the leaves to the ground where they can safely overwinter protected from cold weather and predators. Other beneficial insects lay their eggs directly on fallen leaves. When you haul your leaves away, you are removing critical habitat for luna moths, sphinx moths, bumble bees, lightning bugs, lady bugs, hairstreaks butterflies, and countless other wildlife species. If you are worried about fallen leaves smothering your lawn, then consider reducing your lawn to a minimum size to lessen the burden of mowing and raking. At the very least, you can collect the leaves and spread them in your flower beds where they will serve as habitat and mulch.
Fallen leaves make excellent natural mulch. Rather than buying expensive hardwood mulch, pine straw, or pine bark, use the fallen leaves to mulch your vegetable and flower beds. Mulching with leaves has the same benefits as mulching with anything else. Leaves suppress weeds, help retain soil moisture, and build your soil as they break down! If you have excess leaves, or leaves that take longer to break down, pile them up out of sight in your backyard and wait to spread them until they have broken down some. For those who compost, add those leaves to your kitchen scraps in your compost pile. Effective composting requires double the amount of carbon rich “brown” materials when compared to nitrogen rich kitchen scraps or grass clippings.
Not only do wildlife and the soil benefit from leaving the leaves, it is also better for the environment. Using leaf blowers requires fuel and electricity. When leaves are left on the curb for pickup, they often end up in the landfill taking up space and contributing to dirty greenhouse gas emissions. Leaving the fall leaves is a win for everyone: you will save invaluable time and money, wildlife are rewarded with habitat, the environment is left cleaner, and the structure of your soil is maintained and improved over time.
Photos courtesy of EMG Alden Picard
Sources:
https://richmond.ces.ncsu.edu/2016/10/leave-the-leaves/
https://chatham.ces.ncsu.edu/2021/11/leave-the-leaves-2/#:~:text=Rather%20than%20pack%20your%20leaves,do%20the%20work%20for%20you.
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Time for North Carolina Apples
By EMG Connie Rothwell
Baked, dried, fried, squeezed, or munched, the North Carolina apple is delicious. The apple has a rich history in our state. Lee Calhoun’s book, Old Southern Apple, traces the origins, historical periods, and varieties of apples grown in our state since the mid-1600s. He describes the years between 1840 and 1900 as the “golden age of apples in the South;” when “there was a serious crusade to make the South a major commercial apple-growing area using varieties of apples adapted to southern soils and climate.”
Many groups and people contributed to our apple heritage. When the Cherokee were moved from their land, they left behind fruit orchards. Jarvis Van Buren determined several of their apples were superior in flavor and did not spoil quickly. Legend says that the Junaluska apple was named after Chief Junaluska. Nurseries and individuals continued to develop varieties of cultivars, always searching for the right combinations of quality, time to harvest, and flavors.
Grafting and budding are how fruit tree cultivars are propagated, so that the exact genetic make-up and characteristics of the parent plant are persevered. Two of the same apple trees must be planted near each other for cross-pollination.
Apples can be sweet, semi-sweet and tart. Michael Parker, fruit tree specialist with NCSU extension says, “It’s a balance between sugars and acids that give each a unique flavor. It’s a genetic trait of each variety.”
Today, we enjoy fresh apples harvested in the NC Piedmont and Mountains. “If you could buy apples directly from the grower, you’ll find that the quality is much higher,” says Parker. “The longer that apples are off the tree and handled improperly, the quality goes down significantly.” He recommends making sure you choose your apples carefully. Look at the calyx or blossom end of the apple. If it is green to white, it is ripe. Ask the vendor to taste some apples so you get the juicy taste you want.
“Surely the apple is the noblest of fruits.” ~ Henry David Thoreau
Photo courtesy of NCSU https://cals.ncsu.edu/news/your-guide-to-north-carolina-apples/
References: https://historicsites.nc.gov/all-sites/horne-creek-farm/southern-heritage-apple-orchard/apple-history/golden-age-apples-south
https://cals.ncsu.edu/news/your-guide-to-north-carolina-apples/
https://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-heirloom-apples/
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Fall Tree Planting – Young Trees Need a Good Start!
By EMG Sylvia Hindman
No matter whether your new tree is balled & burlapped (B&B), potted, or bare root, successful growth always starts with healthy root systems. B&B plants need to have the wire/plastic straps cut off and burlap removed (it is usually a synthetic material which will not decompose). Lift potted plants out of the pot (it may be necessary to cut the pots off). Next, carefully examine the roots of each to see if they are root-bound (growing tightly round and round the bottom and sides). These roots need to be loosened and, if the roots are tightly wound, soak the root ball in water for several hours or overnight. If your tree is bare root, soak it immediately after receipt and until it can be planted.
With your fingers, try to pull the roots apart, carefully working them loose. It’s OK if a few break off. Sometimes they will unwind into very long strands which can be trimmed shorter to fit in the hole. If you cannot pull apart the roots with your fingers, use a sharp knife or pruning saw to slice the sides and bottom of the root ball to loosen them.
Dig a hole no deeper than the root ball but 2-3 times wider so the young roots will grow sideways for stability and absorb moisture more easily. Do not add any amendments into the hole. Place the tree in and put a straight edge across the hole as a guide to ensure that the tree is not set too deeply. You may need to toss some loose dirt back into the bottom to raise it up. Leave the root collar exposed (where the trunk flares out to become roots) and it is not advisable to compact dirt around the base of your new tree. Finally add a light mulch layer (2”-4” of wood chips, compost, etc.) but keep it at least 12” away from the trunk. Build up a water ring (donut) from the mulch if you will be hand watering with a hose. No ring is needed if you have drip irrigation or use tree gators.
Water is crucial during the first year – a minimum of 1” of water each week either from rainfall or watering. Your new tree will be working hard for the first 2 years to grow strong roots and become established, so pay attention to its needs. Have a soil test to learn if you need to fertilize as it grows and replenish the mulch as needed, remembering to keep it away from the trunk.
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NATIVE TREES FOR THE SOUTH
By EMG Sylvia Hindman
Now that we know how to properly plant and care for our trees, please consider adding more native trees to your landscape. Here are some of the more frequently used natives that thrive in our heat, humidity, and mild winters. As a bonus, they are more disease-resistant and provide food and shelter for many of our birds, insects, and small animals. We will concentrate on small trees (15-40 feet tall) since that is the size that can be used in most of our yards.
EVERGREEN TREES*
Florida Anise / Spicebush 15’-25’ – Illicium floridanum
Redbay 15’-40’ – Persea barbonia
Staggerbush / Tree Lyonia 20’-25’ – Lyonia ferruginea
Sweetleaf / Horsesugar 15’-35’ – Symplacos tinctoria
Wax myrtle / Southern Bayberry 15’-20’ – Myrica cerifera
Wild Olive / Devilwood 15’-25’ – Osmanthus americanus
Yaupon Holly 20’-25’ – Ilex vomitoria
*the above species are great for screening, privacy, and shade.
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FLOWERING & FRUITING TREES
Flowering Dogwood 20’-30’ – Cornus florida
Fringetree / Grancy Graybeard 20’-30’ – Chionanthus viginicus
Redbud / Judas Tree 20’-35’ – Cercis canadensis
Scarlet Buckeye / Red Buckeye 15’-25’ – Aesculus pavia
Serviceberry / Shadbush 15’-25’ – Amelanchier arborea
Sourwood / Sorreltree 20’-30’ – Oxydendrum arboretum
Sparkleberry / Farkleberry 20’30’ – Vaccinium arboretum
Two-Winged Silverbell 15’-25’ – Halsia diptera
Walter’s viburnum 12’-20’ – Viburnum obovatum
Witchhazel 15’-20- - Hamamelis virginiana
Photos courtesy of NC State, Picture 1 Jim Robbins;
https://ncwildflower.org/recommended-native-species/
https://ncwf.org/habitat/native-pollinator-plants/trees/
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Late Boneset, Eupatorium serotinum
By EMG Jean Wilson
Late Boneset (Eupatorium serotinum) is a locally native flowering plant that is frequently considered a weed. It spreads aggressively by reseeding, so it can be somewhat intimidating for the average gardener. However, if you want a fragrant, very attractive, easy to grow plant that supports multiple species of pollinators in the late summer and fall, this plant is a great choice for your yard. Young plants are easy to pull and seed heads can be removed to prevent excessive spreading. It is very deer and bunny resistant.
Late Boneset is a short-lived perennial that grows 3-6’ tall. It benefits from at least one Chelsea Chop early in the season. It looks great behind and mixed with other native plants that bloom at the same time, including Goldenrod, Blue Mist Flower, and the later-blooming species of Black Eyed Susans. Try planting one and seeing how many different species of pollinators you can see on it. I see more insects on it than on any other of my flowering plants.
Photos courtesy of EMG Jean Wilson
https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2056
Tame Your Native Plants: The “Chelsea Chop” (londonmiddlesexmastergardeners.com)
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Please note: this is the last edition of the Garden Zone that you might receive. We don't want to overburden you with emails from the N.C. Cooperative Extension, Mecklenburg County Center so we will be creating interest lists by topic. Please sign up here if you would like to continue receiving the Garden Zone: Sign Up for E-Mail Notifications | N.C. Cooperative Extension (ncsu.edu)
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