Sherwood Estates III

Growing Great Roses in the Dallas Area!

May 07, 2001

contributed by Dawn Chapman


Location. Choose a well-drained sopot that has at least 6 hours of sun and that is not too near large trees or hedges. Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal, but roses do well in full sun.

Time to plant. Careful preparation of rose beds from December through February. Potted roses may be planted later in the spring. Transplanting may be done when bushes are dormant.

Preparation of beds. Careful preparation of rose beds pays off in beautiful blooms and healthy bushes over the years. The most critical issue is drainage; rose beds must drain well. Raised beds are by far the best. In black clay soil, it is a good idea to dig out the place to be planted to a depth of 6 to 8 inches then raise the bed 8 to 10 inches above the grade (total depth 14 to 18 inches). Landscape timbers are the most economical material. Replace the soil with either 1/3 composted organic material, 1/3 builders sand, and 1/3 original soil or 3/4 sandy loam with 1/4 compost. Mix soil well with garden fork or roto tiller. If possible allow this to ripen and settle several weeks before planting. Be careful about adding fertilizer or other amendments when mixing soils. We recommend a soil test before adding any phosphorus or other additives. Our native black soil is high in most all nutrients, but is usually too alkaline (high pH) and needs nitrogen. Some of the sulpher soil acidifiers can help with high pH. Nitrogen is the cheapest and easiest nutrient to add, but be careful not to overdo it!

Watering. A general rule is roses require a minimum of one inch of water per week. Water more in the summertime due to the fact that the ground dries out more quickly. Water thoroughly and deeply twice a week (if Mother Nature does not). Slow soaking is best using a drip system. Be careful not to wet foliage if watering in the evening.

Feeding. Roses thrive on light regular feeding. Again a soil test is suggested to know what your roses need. Begin a feeding program when new growth begins in the spring and continue through Laber Day. Well-rotted manure is excellent and well-balanced commercial fertilizers do a good job. Special roses foods are also available. Follow directions and DO NOT OVERFEED! Light regular feedings are the most effective. Be sure to water before and after fertilizing.

Mulching. A good mulch is a must in Dallas in the summer. A mulch preserves moisture in the soil, protects the roots from heat and slows weed grouwth. Apply several inches of mulch in the latter spring and replenish during the season as materials break down. Pine bark, hardwood mulch, pine needles, shredded oak leaves, and similar organic materials are suitable for mulch. Mixtures of these materials are best, as they tend to pack less and permit easy transmission of water and fertilizers. Nurseries have mulch if no other source is available.

Insect protection. Principal insects on roses are aphids and thrips. Some recommended sprays are Orthene, Malathion, and Mavrik. Follow label directions carefully and explicitly. Do not spray in hot weather. Spray rose beds after they have been well soaked. These insecticides control most caterpillars, beetles, and other leaf and petal sucking and chewing insects. For severe infestation of worms, use Bacillus Thurengensis (BT). Red spider mites are a severe probelm in hot, dry weather. They cause gradual yellowing of the leaf (bottom of leaves first), which finally drops off. A plant can defoliate very quickly if not treated with Avid, Kelthane, or any specific miticide. Daily washing of the undersides of the leaves with a strong spray of water helps to control spider mites.

Fungus disease control. Blackspot is a major enemy of roses causing the leaves to turn yellow with black sports and finally dropping off. Blackspot greatly weakens the bush and retards growth. Blackspot is much easier to prevent than to cure. Use a good fungicide such as Funginex, Daconil, Manzate, or Benlate. Begin the preventative program after the first leaves appear in the spring and continue about every one to two weeks durning the growing season. Especially in cooler weather during spring and fall. Check label directions for proper mixing of all fungicides. DO NOT SPRAY IN THE HEAT OF THE DAY!

Spring pruning. In the Dallas area, spring pruning is usually done around February 22. Pruning of old growth encourages new growth and development of new growth. Cut bushes back 1/3 to 2/3, depending on type of bush (hybrid Teas more and shrubs less). Cut out old dead wood and canes rubbing on other canes. Try to "open up" the center of the bush for better air circulation. Seal the cut with Elmer's glue or specialty rose stem sealer. When cutting blooms, cut a suitable stem in proportion to the size of the bloom, making the cut just above the five leaflet spray. Be sure to keep spent blooms cut back to just about a five leaflet spray. On new bushes, it is a good idea to cut short stems (to a five leaflet bract) the first year until the bush is well established.