Brooklyn Queens Land Trust

GARDEN CHORES

Digging In

This column is in planning.

Watering

Tips on how to.



Reducing the need to water

Weather is the most important subject for farmers and gardeners. Despite the many storms (hurricanes, tornadoes, et al) dropping several inches of water in 2005 we still need to think about how we can reduce the need for watering and conserve what we can.

Firstly, consider the types of plants you grow and whether they are suited to the conditions in your garden. Some soils, such as chalky, gravelly or sandy types allow water to drain through before the plants get a proper chance to use it. Incorporating humus to trap water can make a big difference to the need for artificial watering, although it is important not to create soil which remains water-logged in the winter.

If there are moist and shady areas in your garden, position plants such as hostas there. Likewise, on a sunny well-drained site, the obvious choices will be sun lovers such as lavender, rosemary and the Mediterranean species.

Water is lost from plants through transpiration, the process by which they 'breathe' through the leaves; plant roots are constantly replacing this loss. So, a critical time for the plant will be when it has any disturbance to its root system.

Seedlings will need water, as will any plant that is moved or is newly established. A good soaking after planting settles the soil around the roots and improves the chances of survival. Apply the water accurately around the base of the plant. It is a good idea to ridge soil around large plants to prevent water running away. In hot weather it is a good idea to shade newly planted material.

Try not to waste water on your lawn. Grass will recover from prolonged drought and it is better to ensure that the lawn is cut regularly, but not any shorter than 2.5cm (1 inch). Prepare the ground thoroughly and incorporate as much organic matter as you can. This will improve the condition of the soil and increase its ability to absorb and retain moisture.




Mulching

Water is continually lost from the ground through evaporation and mulching will help to prevent this. Always apply the mulch when the ground is already moist - otherwise you could create an area surrounding your prized plants that will not absorb as much water.

Adding a 7.5cm (3 inches) layer of organic or inorganic mulch will:

Improve the absorbency of the soil
Conserve water
Inhibit weed growth
Protect roots from frost and keep the soil a little warmer
Organic mulch will add humus to the soil

A wide range of material can be used for mulches, including:

Home made compost

Spent mushroom compost

Composed bark chippings

Grass clippings

Farmyard manure

Straw, paper, or plastic matting

Grit or gravel


Techniques for watering

Water in the evening to avoid the effects of transpiration.

Water thoroughly - and preferably not more than once a week.

Annuals which have been sown in situ may only need water during the period when flower buds are forming.

Vegetables will need water - but time this to coincide with when they need it most: potatoes, when the tubers begin to form; soft fruit, as the fruit sets; leafy vegetables, as the hearts begin to develop; peas and beans, when they are flowering.

Heavy pruning (if you can bear to do it to a gorgeous new shrub proudly carried home from the garden centre) will, by reducing the leafy growth, lessen the water lost while the plant is establishing itself. Cut back deciduous native hedging plants by about a third; this will ensure the resulting growth is vigorous and bushy. Even bedding plants such as Tagetes and Petunia benefit from having all buds removed as you are planting them, especially if they are a little leggy. This will give the roots time to settle down before expending too much energy in producing flowers.

A 30cm (1 foot) drainage pipe sunk next to a recently planted tree will ensure that water is available to the roots where it's needed.

Did you know that a sprinkler hose used for an hour takes as much water (about 500 litres) as a family uses in two days?

A seep hose is a most economic method of watering

Conserve rain water by having at least one rain butt; catch the run-off from gutters and roofs. Rain water is often better for plants than tap water especially for acid lovers; most tap water is fairly alkaline. Having rain butts positioned at various points in the garden will lessen the need to carry heavy cans of water.

The temperature of water in rain barrels will be similar to that of the soil and so less of a shock to tender plants than water from the main supply. Irrigate plants in the glasshouse with water that has been allowed to warm up a little. How would you like an icy shower when you were enjoying a cosy time in a sheltered environment?

Don't waste water by giving it to plants that don't require it. Herbs will have improved flavour and scent if grown in hot and dry conditions similar to those in their native countries.

Watering accessories

With modern snap fittings and the multitude of hose accessories available, a little expenditure can make your watering very much easier.

Lance sprays, fan sprays and squeeze-grip or trigger-grip spray attachments extend your reach and allow a variety of spray strengths for different purposes.

Semi-automatic sprinkler fittings are usually mounted on sturdy bases or spike mounted for firm fixing in the lawn.

Sprinklers are available in a number of different actions offering a range of spray patterns and strengths. These include models with rotating or spinning heads, or gyrating, oscillating or pulsating actions.

Select a sprinkler with a spray action/pattern to suit your requirements:

small circular pattern
large circular/adjusts to half circle
oscillating sprinklers for watering rectangular areas (or part of a rectangle)
border sprinklers producing a gentle arc for a border
'dial' sprinklers which can be adjusted to produce a number of spray patterns: square, circular, semicircular, rectangular and strip
pop-up sprinklers which only appear above the lawn surface when in use a micro misters or mini-sprinklers for individual plants.
Drip watering systems are mostly for special plants where consistent watering is vital. Small-scale pipes are run from the main hose to drip-valve units positioned to drip water continuously into the root zone of each plant. These can lead to soil compaction and while they are most usually advertised as suitable for the vegetable garden, repositioning each drip unit when replanting vegetable beds can be very labour intensive. The most sophisticated have moisture sensors and microprocessor controlled delivery systems.
Very small-scale drip systems can be extremely useful, for example keeping gro-bags moist. Different drip systems are available for use outside and for taking water to individual pots or trays in the greenhouse. Seep hoses have minute holes along one side which can be positioned so that water gently seeps out of them to saturate the surrounding soil area. They are generally expensive. Some are designed to be turned 'holes up' to spray and 'holes down' to seep.


Containers
Obviously plants grown in window boxes, pots and containers are dependent on the water we give them and unlike plants in the ground, don't have access to water deep in the soil. Grouping container plants together provides some protection and it makes sense to move them out of full sun during prolonged dry weather. Standing pots on a layer of moist gravel can help to improve humidity. It is useful to do this with your house plants too.

Container plants will have to be watered at least once a day in warm dry weather. Remember that in windy weather even more water is lost through transpiration.

Terracotta pots can be lined with plastic to help prevent moisture loss.




Plants that are drought tolerant
Shrubs

Buddleja, Ceanothus, Cotoneaster, Cytisus (broom), Eleagnus, Euphorbia, Cistus (rock rose), Helianthemum and many rock plants; Philadelphus, Rosa rugosa, Rosa rubrifolia and lilac.

Silver-leaved plants

Achillea, Artemisia, Senecio, Lavendula,

Nepeta, Santolina, Stachys, Cerastium, Echinops (globe thistle) and Erigeron.

Low-growing plants

Aubrieta, Campanula poscharskyana, Geranium macrorrhizum, Sedum, Sempervivium, Dianthus, Phlox douglasii and varied ivies.

Bulbs

Allium, Amaryllis, Crinum, Gladiolus species and Nerines.

Bedding

Felicia, Gazania, Pelagoniums, Helichrysum, Nicotiana, Osteospermum,Petunia, Cosmos and Portulaca.

Herbs

Sage, thyme, marjoram, melissa, rosemary and fennel.

Perennials and shrubs are the plants to choose for ease of maintenance - as once established they will generally fend for themselves. Watch out for those pretty self-sown annuals found in corners and in cracks, such as Eschscholzia corydalis and Erigeron; all of these will happily thrive in hot dry conditions.




Whatever the weather, it is useful to try to reduce the amount of water you use. Also, if you have difficulty in getting water around the garden to the plants that need it, reducing the watering requirements in the garden is important.

Here are some ways to d[ this:

Use mulches to conserve moisture in the soil and help keep the weeds at bay - they use water too!

Choose the correct plants for your soil - especially important on free-draining soils.

Position waterbutts and standpipes at convenient places around the garden.

Use a lightweight plastic watering can.
Only put as much water in the watering can that you can comfortably carry each time - do not overfill.

Water in the evening when the heat has gone - you will lose less water through evaporation.

Put in permanent 'seep' hoses. These are perforated hoses that are laid in borders and beds and deliver water slowly direct to the soil surface.

Use a water timer on your tap. Set it to water your garden before dawn.

Monthly Chores

October


Here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do this month to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season, and prepare for the long cold winter and upcoming spring.


Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Remember that Spring will retrun and With a little planting effort now, you will speed the timing of that first new growth by as much as a month. During the fall months, after soil temperature drops below 60°F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, Siberian squill, dwarf irises, Anemone, and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

Most spring flowering bulbs should be in the ground by the early part of this month, with the exception of Tulips which may be planted up until early November.

Gladiolas, Dahlias and other tender bulbs should be dug before the ground freezes, and stored in a cool, dark area. Dahlia and Begonia tubers should be stored in a box of slightly moist peat moss. Gladiola corms can be stored in a paper bag without additional packing.

Be sure that new plantings and perennials which were divided and moved last month are kept watered if there has been insufficient rainfall.

There is still time to set out winter pansies, flowering Kale, flowering Cabbage, and fall mums. Keep a little color in the garden for as long as possible.

Watch your thermometer on colder nights. A windless, cold, clear night usually means a killing frost.... You can keep your Chrysanthemums and Asters blooming for quite a while longer if you take the time to provide a little frost protection for them. A small, simple frame covered with cheesecloth or an old bed sheet placed over your plants on frosty nights, can add a month or more of garden blooms. (Don't forget to remove the cover as soon as the danger has passed!)

Geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, and other tender plants should be brought indoors or moved to a coldframe before the first frost.

Mulching fall planted perennials will keep the soil warmer longer, allowing root growth to continue, however, the plants do need time to harden off for winter. Spread a thin layer of mulch after fall planting, and then add a thicker layer once the ground has frozen.

Collect and save seeds of wildflowers to sow next spring.

Shrubs and trees

Throughout the fall and winter months you can plant or transplant both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. During these months of dormancy you can do your shrub and tree moving with only minimal shock to the plants.

If your Rhododendrons or other shrubs have root weevils, release parasitic nematodes to soil under the affected plants.

Fruits and veggies

Harvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them. As is often the case, you may have produced much more of certain type than your family can consume. Share the abundance of squash and tomatoes with friends and neighbors. Donate the rest to your local food bank, church pantry, or second harvest organization! Although most fruits and vegetables are best when eaten fresh on the day they're picked, you can extend the season by freezing, drying, storing, or canning.

Dig and divide congested clumps of rhubarb.
Cut back raspberry canes that have grown too long, to prevent damage caused by winter winds.

Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed. Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed.


After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas, soybeans, or vetches for the purpose of plowing under next spring. These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.

Lawn

Keep mowing as long as your grass is growing....

House Plants

Both Christmas Cactus and Poinsettias need to be kept indoors in a spot where they get ten hours of bright light and fourteen hours of total darkness, each day. Room temperatures should be around 65 to 70 degrees for the Poinsettias, but cooler (around 55 to 60) for the Christmas cactus.

The longer your house plants were allowed to remain outside in the fall, the more shock they will go through when they are finally moved indoors. If you haven't brought them in yet, do it now!!

Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Odds and ends

You are probably sick of hearing it... but get those slugs!!! The fall rains have once again gotten slugs and snails moving through the garden. One last application of slug bait will eliminate a lot of slugs and prevent them from reproducing again this fall. Result: Fewer slugs next spring......

One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter. Any weed which you can eliminate from the garden this fall will possibly prevent thousands of weed seeds from sprouting in the garden next spring!

Keep lawn and garden raked clean of leaves and debris. Fallen leaves, old plant parts and grass clippings should be added to the compost pile.

Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting.

Clean your gutters and downspouts to remove fallen leaves and other debris. Plugged gutters can cause serious damage to your home as well as your garden when the winter rain and snow arrives.

Send in your requests for gardening catalogs now, so that you will have something to read and ponder on those looooooong winter nights ahead.

Mark your perennials with permanent tags, or create a map showing their locations so you'll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season. This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

The birds will soon begin their winter migrations. Give them a helping hand by providing them with some food for their long journey. No one likes to travel on an empty stomach, and you may even persuade a few of them to stick around for the winter, if they know they have a reliable food source!

Continue to watch for insect, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.


NOVEMBER's Gardening Chores
Here are a few gardening tasks and projects that you can do this month to help keep your garden looking it's best for the rest of this season, and prepare for the long cold winter and upcoming spring.


Perennials, annuals, and bulbs
Make sure that the canes of your climbing roses and other vining plants are securely fastened to their supports. Winter winds can whip and severely damage unprotected plants. Don't tie them so tightly that the string or twist-tie cuts into the stem. I recommend using a length of an old nylon stocking because it will stretch as the plant grows, rather than cutting into the stem, as string will do.
Mound five to six inches of soil around the bases of your hardy fuchsias and roses. Use soil from another part of the garden, rather than risking damage to the roots by digging around the base of the plant.
Cut Chrysanthemum stems to 2-3 inches from the soil once they have begun to die back.
You can continue to transplant your perennials throughout the fall and winter, as long as they remain dormant.
Tulip bulbs may still be planted in the early part of the month.
Tender bulbs should be dug up and stored in a cool, dark area after first frost.
Be sure that your tender plants are protected from frost. Mulching with bark, sawdust or straw will help create a blanket of protection over the root system. Should the weather get suddenly cold, place burlap, cloth or dark plastic over your tender plants to give them some added protection from the cold. Be sure to remove this covering when the weather has stabilized!.
Shrubs and trees
One of the most asked questions at this time of year is "when can I transplant my shrubs and trees?" This month and throughout the next several months will be good times to transplant trees and shrubs. At this time of the year, most ornamentals have entered into dormancy, and can be safely dug and replanted. The key to transplanting is to dig a large root ball (get as much of the root system as is possible). Equally important, is getting the plant back into the prepared soil as quickly as possible, to keep the roots from drying out. (Only a transplanting fertilizer should be used at this time of the year.) Large trees or shrubs should be staked to protect them from wind whipping during winter storms. Keep them staked until the roots have a chance to develop and anchor them.
As soon as the leaves fall from fruit trees, shade or flowering trees, raspberries and other deciduous plants, they can be sprayed for the first time with a dormant spray. This spraying helps control over-wintering insects and diseases. Apply according to label instructions.
Prune your evergreens to shape.
Fruits and veggies
Cut the tops off your asparagus plants, and add a winter dressing of aged manure to the bed.
Cover strawberries two inches deep with hay or straw.
Secure your raspberry canes to stakes to protect them from wind whipping.
Lawn
If you haven't already applied a fall or winter type of lawn fertilizer (20-9-9), now is the time to do it. This encourages good root development and helps improve the color of the lawn. Lime can also be applied, if needed.
Give your lawn a good raking to lift away accumulations of debris.
Keep leaves raked from the lawn. They should be composted. Alternatively, you can just mow over them, turning them to a mulch which adds important nutrients back to the lawn.
House Plants
Winter heating dries the air out in your home considerably. Help your house plants survive by misting them or placing the pots on a pebble filled tray of water to ensure adequate humidity and moisture.
Pot up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor color during the winter. Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window.
Continue to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps to control the problem.
Odds and ends
Please feed the birds and other small creatures which may not be able to find food due to snow on the ground or other causes. Their natural food sources have pretty much dried up by this time of the year. For only a few dollars you can feed an enormous number of birds. You don't have to be a bird watcher to enjoy the feeling that you get when you've helped out one of God's creatures.
Drain your hoses and put them away so they don't freeze and burst.
Continue to watch for insect, slug and snail, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.
Use small stakes or markers where you've planted bulbs or late starting spring plants in the perennial garden, to avoid disturbing them when you begin spring soil preparation. If you feel that stakes don't fit your landscape style.... you might consider marking stones with fingernail polish or paint, and set them on the planting spot (painted side down)
When you have finished your last mowing of the year, make sure that it is properly stored. Run it until it is out of fuel.... old gas can turn to varnish, and severely damage the engine.
Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting.This is also a good month to restock any tools that have seen better days, while the prices are lower.
A tip from The 1899 Old Farmer's Almanac "Useful Hints": "Keep all fruit stones (pits), cooked or uncooked. Dry them slowly in the oven, put in a large jar, and in winter throw a handful on the fire of an evening. They will crackle for a moment, send up a bright flame, and fill the room with a delicious aroma."