Brooklyn Queens Land Trust

Gardening in Drought

Home & Garden

Plant problems

Symptoms vary between different types of plants, depending on the severity of the drought.

Generally, the main symptom of drought is the leaves wilt and become limp as they are no longer swollen with water. They nearly always turn yellow; sometimes they turn brown at the edges or drop off.

A lack of water can cause stunted growth, flowers to shrivel up and fruit to drop. In extreme cases plants shrivel up and die.

Drought symptoms are noticeable at the top of the plant and they work their way down as the plant becomes depleted of moisture. Or signs first appear on the outside of the plant and work their way in towards the centre of the stems.

Test soil by placing your finger in it. If it feels moist then don't water. Confusingly, many symptoms of drought are similar to symptoms of overwatering, which can also kill plants.

Soil, compost and mulching
Add organic matter to soil when planting. Improving the soil's structure helps to retain moisture.
Use a mulch on flowerbeds and around shrubs and trees in spring. This stops moisture from evaporating during dry spells.
Add a mulch, such as gravel, to the surface of hanging baskets to trap moisture.
Add water-retentive gel to compost in hanging baskets and containers, or use compost with water retentive gel already in it.
Learn more about using mulches.
Lawn care
Lawns are fairly drought resistant compared with other plants, but they can become yellowy-brown, limp and eventually bald if the following precautions are not taken:

cut the lawn less frequently than usual
raise the height of lawnmower blades
use a sprinkler on the lawn in the evening. Water lawns thoroughly to saturate the top 10cm to 15cm (4in to 6in) of soil. Check there is no hose pipe ban in the area. Avoid walking on the lawn if possible
scarify the lawn in autumn. A build-up of thatch in the summer could prevent water from penetrating the lawn
aerate soil with a fork to help water penetrate the roots of the grass
follow our step-by-step guide to autumn lawn care
Greenhouse problems
Greenhouses are useful for protecting tender plants and providing extra heat. However, the glass magnifies the sun's rays, which makes plants vulnerable to being scorched by the sun. It also means that soil dries out much quicker than if the plants were outside.
Flexible net shades can be used with varying degrees of success to protect plants from the direct glare of sunlight. Alternatively, glass shade paint can be applied to windows.
Open windows, use ventilation or even leave the door open during the day. Remember to close them at night if a frost or cold night is forecast.
Watering
Using the right amount of water is the most important aspect of a plant's survival in dry conditions. Bear in mind that it is not just hot weather that can cause soil to dry out, windy weather can also have a detrimental effect.
In dry conditions, water container plants at least once a day. Water in the evening to reduce evaporation.
However, if a plant looks like it is wilting and suffering from drought in the day, then water it immediately.
Try to avoid watering plant leaves in direct sunlight because they can become scorched, particularly when they have hairy foliage.
Install a water butt in the garden to conserve water.
If you have an automatic watering system with a timer, adjust it to take hot and dry weather into account.
Move container plants into the shade if you are going away on holiday and no one is watering your plants.
Plants for dry conditions
If you have a dry garden, choose plants that are suited to dry conditions. These often have grey or silver foliage, such as lavender and santolina, or thin foliage to reduce water loss through the leaves.

Be safe in the sun
It's not only plants that can start to flag in dry weather, if you are working in the garden in hot conditions, it is important to take the following precautions:

wear suntan lotion or sun block
work in the shade if possible, out of direct sunlight
wear a hat or headscarf
take regular breaks and have frequent non-alcoholic drinks




Additional gardening resources can be found at UMassTurf.org/gardener.html

GARDENING DURING DROUGHT

As the population and the amount of water used per person continues to increase and with a continuing deficiency in precipitation, the problem will become more acute. Many towns have already imposed restrictions on outdoor water use. Citizens should be aware of the seriousness of the situation and strive to conserve water at every opportunity. Here are some suggestions for making the most efficient use of limited water supply.

GENERAL PRACTICES TO CONSERVE WATER AND PREPARE FOR DROUGHT

Select drought resistant plants and varieties.
Work organic matter into the soil.
Mulch plants.
Capture water in rain barrels and cisterns, cover top with mosquito netting.
Use gray water.
During a water ban, don't prune, fertilize or apply pesticides.
Xeriscape to conserve water.

LAWNS
Mowing - Set the cutting height on lawn mowers to at least 2 inches. Grass cut at 2-3 inches will develop deeper root systems and will be better able to tolerate drought.
Fertilizing - avoid early spring high nitrogen fertilizer; use turf fertilizer with a high percentage of slow release nitrogen.
Watering - Apply one inch of water per week in one application to allow for deep (4-6 inches) penetration of water into soil. See: Efficient Watering of Turf.
Leave grass clippings; clippings act as mulch and recycle nutrients.
Allow grass to go dormant if water is not available; the turf will green up when conditions improve.
New lawn construction and repairs: fall (late August - early September) seeding only and include drought resistant types such as fine fescues in the grass seed mix.

TREES AND SHRUBS

Once established, trees and shrubs generally need less water than other plantings.
Avoid heavy feedings; large leaves means more transpiration.
Water slowly, deeply and infrequently such as 10-14 day intervals.
Mulch plants - Add a 2-3 inch deep layer of bark mulch. Do not put mulch against trunk.
Apply antitranspirants, read lable before applying.
Apply water deeply to newly planted trees and shrubs, water should penetrate to a soil depth of 10-12 inches. Make additional applications at one week intervals if no rainfall occurs.
Use drought resistant plants ; burlap or lath wind break and shading.

FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES
Select drought tolerant types for drier sites.
Shelter with wind breaks or fabric until roots arewell established.
Water deeply but infrequently.
Wide spacing to reduce competition for moisture.
Mulch plants.
Use trickle or drip irrigation systems.

ALLOCATION OF WATER

When water is limited, give priority to the following plants since they have the greatest need for water:
Newly planted trees and shrubs.
Newly seeded lawns or lawn areas that have been overseeded or repaired.
Trees and shrubs on sandy or shallow soils, and on sites exposed to sun and wind.
Vegetables; apply water when crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers etc) are flowering.

Drought-Tolerant Plants
Deciduous Trees

· Amelanchier arborea, Shadbush, Downy serviceberry
· Carpinus caroliniana, American hornbeam
· Carya ovata, Shagbark hickory
· Cotinus obovatus, American smoketree
· Crataegus species, Hawthorns
· Diospyros virginiana, American persimmon
· Halesia carolina, Carolina silverbells
· Liquidambar styraciflua, American sweetgum
· Prunus x cistena, Purpleleaf sand cherry
· Quercus species, Oaks (many species)
· Sassafras albidum, Sassafras
· Tilia species, Lindens

Shrubs

· Aesculus parviflora, Bottlebrush buckeye
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Aronia arbutifolia, A. melanocarpa, Chokeberries
· Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Bluemist', Clandon bluebeard
· Ceanothus americanus, New Jersey tea
· Chaenomeles x superba, Flowering quince
· Cornus racemosa, Gray dogwood
· Corylus americana, American filbert
· Coylus avellana 'Contorta', Harry Lauder's walking stick
· Cotinus coggygria, Smokebush
· Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', Wallflower
· Hamamelis virginiana, Witch-hazel
· Hydrangea paniculata, Panicle hydrangea
· Itea virginica, Virginia sweetspire
· Lavandula angustifolia, Lavender
· Lespedeza thunbergii, Bush clover
· Myrica pensylvanica, Bayberry
· Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage
· Philadelphus coronarius, Mockorange
· Prunus maritima, Beach plum
· Rhus copallinum, Shining sumac
· Rosa rugosa, R. glauca, R. nitida, R. carolina, and other species, Species roses
· Santolina chamaecyparissus, Lavender cotton
· Symphoricarpos albus, Common snowberry
· Symphoricarpos orbiculatus, Coralberry
· Syringa species, Lilacs
· Vaccinium angustifolium, Lowbush blueberry
· Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood
· Viburnum lentago, Nannyberry

Needled Evergreens

· Abies concolor, White fir
· Cephalotaxus harringtonia, Japanese plum yew
· Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sawara false cypress
· Juniperus species, Junipers (most species)
· Picea species, Spruces (most species)
· Pinus species, Pines (most species)
· Taxus species, Yews (most species)
· Thuja occidentalis, Eastern arborvitae

Broadleaf Evergreens

· Ilex crenata, Japanese holly
· Ilex glabra, Inkberry
· Ilex x meserveae, Meserve holly
· Ilex opaca, American holly
· Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon grape

Vines

· Aristolochia macrophylla, Dutchman's pipe
· Bougainvillea species, Bougainvilleas
· Campsis radicans, Trumpet creeper
· Clematis montana, Anemone clematis
· Clematis terniflora, Sweet autumn clematis
· Ipomoea tricolor, Morning glory
· Lonicera sempervirens, Trumpet honeysuckle
· Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Virginia creeper
· Plumbago auriculata, Cape leadwort
· Wisteria frutescens, American wisteria

Groundcovers

· Ajuga reptans, Carpet bugleweed
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Bergenia cordifolia, Bergenia
· Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-in-summer
· Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Ceratostigma
· Epimedium species, Barrenworts
· Juniperus horizontalis, Creeping juniper
· Liriope spicata, Lilyturf
· Pachysandra procumbens, Allegheny spurge
Paxistima canbyi, Cliff green
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Thymus species, Thymes

Perennials

· Achillea cultivars, Garden yarrow
· Agastache foeniculum, Anise hyssop
· Agastache cultivars, Hyssops
· Amsonia hubrichtii, Bluestar
· Anemone species, Anemones
· Arabis procurrens, A. alpina, Rock cresses
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly weed
· Aster species, Asters (many species)
· Baptisia australis, False blue indigo
· Chrysanthemum cultivars, Chrysanthemums
· Coreopsis species, Coreopsis
· Dianthus species, Pinks
· Diascia rigescens, D. barberae cultivars, Diascias
· Dicentra chrysantha, Golden eardrops
· Echinacea purpurea, Purple coneflower
· Echinops bannaticus, Globe thistle
· Eryngium bourgatii, Sea holly
· Euphorbia species, Euphorbias
· Gaillardia species, Blanket flowers
· Gaura lindheimeri, Gaura
· Hemerocallis species, Daylilies
· Iberis sempervirens, Candytuft
· Kniphofia cultivars, Torch flowers, red-hot pokers
· Liatris species, Blazing stars, gayfeathers
· Lychnis coronaria, Rose campion
· Nepeta species, Catmints
· Oenothera species, Evening primroses
· Origanum laevigatum, Ornamental and culinary oregano cultivars
· Papaver species, Poppies
· Penstemon species, Penstemons, beard-tongues
· Phlox subulata, Woodland phlox
· Physostegia virginiana, Obedient plant
· Pulsatilla vulgaris, Pasque flower
· Rudbeckia species, Black-eyed Susans
· Salvia species, Sages
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Sempervivuns tectorum, Hens and chicks
· Sisyrnchium angustifolium, Blue-eyed grass
· Stachys byzantina, Lamb's ear
· Thymus species, Thymes
· Verbascum bombyciferum and V. chaixii cultivars, Mulleins
· Yucca species, Yuccas

Bulbs and Tuberous Plants

· Agapanthus cultivars, Agapanthus
· Allium caeruleum, A. sphaerocephalum, and other allium cultivars, Ornamental onions
· Crocosmia cultivars, Montbretias
· Fritillaria species, Fritillaries
· Nectaroscordum siculum, Nectaroscordum
· Tulbaghia violacea, Society garlic

Annuals

· Calendula officinalis, Pot marigold
· Capsicum species, Ornamental peppers
· Celosia cristata, Cockscomb
· Eschscholzia californica, California poppy
· Felicia amelloides, Blue marguerite
· Gazania rigens, Gazania
· Helianthus annuus, Sunflower
· Helichrysum bracteatum, Strawflower
· Nigella damascena, Love-in-a-mist
· Papaver cultivars, Annual poppies
· Salvia species, Annual salvias
· Zinnia angustifolia, Zinnia

Ornamental Grasses

· Calamagrostis x acutiflora, Feather reed grass
· Festuca glauca, Blue fescue
· Helicotrichon sempervirens, Blue oat grass
· Panicum virgatum, Switch grass
· Pennisetum species, Fountain grasses
· Schizachyrium scoparium, Little bluestem
· Sorgastrum nutans, Indian grass

----------------------------------------Brooklyn Botanic Garden Director of Publishing Janet Marinelli is editor of BBG's renowned series of quarterly gardening handbooks and the author of Your Natural Home and The Naturally Elegant Home. Janet is a champion of the gardener's role in the preservation of the planet, a philosophy that informs her P&G News column, "Down to Earth." It's a philosophy that also serves as the bedrock for her latest book, Stalking the Wild Amaranth: Gardening in the Age of Extinction. In Stalking the Wild Amaranth, Janet tells of her quest for a landscape art that protects disappearing species, both flora and fauna. It's a gardening journey marked by humor—ecologically sensitive gardening needn't be a dreary affair, Janet insists. "We can do our part," she says, "and still have flair and fun."

Niall Dunne is associate editior of Plants & Gardens News.

Drought-Resistant Plants for Pots
by Ellen Zachos

In recent years, communities all over the United States have experienced some form of drought, and in response, many have restricted the use of water for gardening. As environmentally conscious gardeners, we need to find ways to create gardens—including container gardens—that require little, if any, supplemental watering.

In 1981, the Association of Landscapers and Contractors of Colorado coined the term "xeriscape." "Xeros" is Greek for dry and "scape" comes from the Anglo-Saxon "schap," meaning view. Xeriscape gardening promotes water conservation through inventive landscaping. It is water-efficient, but by no means restricted to stark collections of rocks and cacti. Drought-resistant container gardens need not sacrifice a variety of form and color. There's an additional benefit in planting a drought-tolerant potted garden—you will spend less time maintaining and more time enjoying it.


Fuzzy leaves are one sign that a plant is drought-tolerant.
There are certain characteristics that indicate drought tolerance, so keep these in mind when choosing xerophytic plants for containers: Silvery foliage and hairy or fuzzy leaves reflect sunlight, thus reducing water loss via transpiration, the normal loss of water vapor from a plant's leaves. Leaf hairs also act as a physical barrier to transpiration by reducing air movement over the surface of the leaf. Succulent plant parts, like the leaves of rose moss (Portulaca species), store water for drier times. A thick cuticle (a waxy coating secreted by the plant's epidermal cells) slows the loss of water through the leaf surface. The leaves of ivy-leaved geranium, Pelargonium peltatum, have just such a cuticle. A taproot is another excellent water storage device. Plants with taproots, like butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), store enough water to get through periods of drought.

Drought-tolerant Plants

There are so many xerophytic plants that it would be impossible to include them all here. A good rule of thumb is to choose plants that are native to your area; a number of the non-native ornamentals recommended as drought-tolerant candidates for the garden have become invasive, threatening North American habitats and their associated plants and animals. Plants known to be invasive should not be used in regions where they have been noted as such or other regions with similar climates and growing conditions.

Plants grown in containers are more exposed to the elements than their peers growing in the ground, and therefore should be treated as less hardy. The hardiness listing provided for each perennial gives the zone to which that plant is reliably hardy in a container setting, which is generally two zones warmer than its USDA listing. For example, sea holly (Eryngium bourgatii) is hardy to Zone 5 when it grows in the ground and container-hardy to Zone 7.

Herbaceous Perennials

Sea Holly Eryngium bourgatii—This plant has a wonderful structure and is exceedingly tough. Its leaves are stiff and marked by white veins that complement the spiny, silvery white flower bracts. It is container-hardy to Zone 7 and grows to 24 inches tall.

Perennial Flax Linum perenne—The flowers of perennial flax are a deep, clear, true blue. They open in the heat of day and close again by evening. This easy-to-grow plant does best in full sun and well-drained soil. It's container-hardy to Zone 7 and reaches 1 to 2 feet in height.

Coneflower Echinacea purpurea—This drought-tolerant North American native grows best in sandy soil and full sun. The white cultivars are especially attractive and grow to 24 inches tall. This makes them somewhat shorter than their more common pink cousin. All Echinacea bloom from July through August and are container-hardy to Zone 6.

Globe Thistle Echinops bannaticus—This thistle has long-lasting, pale blue, globe-shaped flowers that make excellent cut and dried displays. Foliage and growth habit are also very attractive. Globe thistle is container-hardy to Zone 6 and reaches 2 to 3 feet tall (depending on the cultivar).

Butterfly Weed Asclepias tuberosa—Its taproot makes this North American native an especially drought-tolerant choice, and its flowers attract bees and butterflies to your garden in abundance. Cultivars range from 1 to 3 feet in height, with flowers available in yellow, orange, vermilion, or white. It is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Annuals


Butterflies love lantana, which is grown as an annual in cooler regions. Individual flowers change their color to yellow once they have been pollinated.
Lantana Lantana species—Available in numerous colors, including yellow, orange, red, white, pink, and lavender, lantana—or shrub verbena, as it is often called—comes in both upright (Lantana camara) and weeping forms (Lantana montevidensis). The leaves have a spicy fragrance, and the plant will flower all summer long if conscientiously dead-headed. Seed heads are also attractive and mature to a shiny, blue-black fruit. (In frost-free areas, Lantana camara is hardy and will grow into a shrub. However, it is known to be invasive in Florida and Hawaii. Gardeners in these states should refrain from growing this plant.)

Sunflower Helianthus annuus—The many varieties range from 2 to 12 feet tall and offer flowers in white, yellow, orange, or red. Some cultivars have huge, single flowerheads, while others have several flowers per stalk. All make excellent accent plants and add height to your containers.

Blue Marguerite Felicia amelloides—This marguerite has lovely blue petals surrounding a yellow center. It ranges from 1 to 3 feet tall and grows best in full sun. This annual flowers best in cool weather, so use it for early spring bloom, then cut it back for another round of flowers in fall.

Zinnia Zinnia angustifolia—Available with white or orange flowers, both with yellow-orange centers, Mexican zinnia grows 8 to 12 inches tall and is quite drought-tolerant. The plant flowers profusely, and its leaves are an attractive gray-green with a linear shape. It is sometimes sold as Zinnia linearis.

Ivy-leaved Geranium Pelargonium peltatum—Dark green, shiny leaves and a trailing growth habit make this plant particularly valuable for container culture. Its blooms are not as large as those on some other geraniums but the color and shape are lovely, and its foliage helps weave together the diverse contents of your container.

Annual and Perennial Vines

Bougainvillea—Nothing beats the brilliance of Bougainvillea. An annual in the North, it's a fast grower, with solid green- or white-variegated leaves and colorful petal-like bracts (not flowers) that can be magenta, white, yellow, orange, or pink. Cut it back and bring it indoors for the winter if you have a sunny window.

Trumpet Creeper Campsis radicans—An excellent choice to cover a trellis or arbor, this North American native vine grows quickly and gives good coverage within two or three years. Flowers can be shades of orange or yellow, depending on the cultivar, and the vine blooms for several months in summer. It is container-hardy to Zone 7.

Morning Glory Ipomoea tricolor—The classic "morning glory blue" is a true symbol of summer, but a rich array of purples, pinks, and stripes are also worth growing. Ipomoea grows quickly and prefers sandy, poor soil. It can easily cover a full-sized tree or two-story house in a single growing season.

Sweet Autumn Clematis Clematis terniflora—This vine delivers a blast of bloom just when you need it: in autumn, when thoughts of winter creep into every gardener's brain. Throughout the summer, its attractive, three-lobed leaves nicely cover an arbor or fence. In early fall, the profusion of white blooms is the finishing touch. The vine, often sold as Clematis paniculata, is container-hardy to Zone 7.

Cape Leadwort Plumbago auriculata—The flowers of cape leadwort are usually a clear pale blue, although a white cultivar is also available. Dead-heading helps guarantee bloom throughout the summer season. This vine is tender north of Zone 9, but just like Bougainvillea, it can be cut back in fall and overwintered indoors.

Bulbs

Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis—It is impossible to overpraise this earliest harbinger of spring. Snowdrop makes a fragrant cut flower, although its scent isn't discernible in the cold winter air. On a warm day, or indoors, its perfume is lovely and delicate. Snowdrops bloom in late winter, and the foliage disappears when the plant goes dormant in mid-spring.


Tulipa tarda is a reliable perennial bulb.
Bearded Iris Iris germanica—The many bearded iris hybrids offer a huge range of color choices, including purples, whites, golds, pinks, and reds. Flowers are intricate and showy, and the upright foliage is an excellent accent for the container garden, even when the plant is not in bloom.

Tulipa Tarda—While some tulips can be temperamental, Tulipa tarda is an outstanding, reliable, hardy, drought-tolerant perennial. It blooms in April, and its brilliant, two-toned flowers are real showstoppers.

Onion Allium species—There are many alliums to choose from, all of them quite drought-tolerant. Heights range from 6 inches to 3 feet, and umbels come in many shades of purple and blue as well as yellow and pink.

Fall-blooming Crocus Crocus speciosus—This crocus blooms without foliage. Its flowers are considerably larger than those of the spring-blooming crocus, and it grows well in sandy, well-drained soils. Full sun is best, but some shade is fine.

Shrubs

Bluemist Spirea Caryopteris x clandonensis—This is an outstanding shrub with blue flowers in August and September. It blooms best in full sun and a well-drained soil, and is container-hardy to Zone 7. Its attractive gray-green foliage has a spicy scent. Treat this shrub, also called bluebeard and false blue spirea, as a perennial and cut it back to the ground in late winter; flowers are borne on new growth.

Cranberry Cotoneaster Cotoneaster apiculatus—This low-growing shrub has an attractive, stiff branching pattern. Its small leaves are shiny and the plant is covered with cranberry-red fruit. It is container-hardy to Zone 7 and its cascading growth habit is especially useful at the front of a large container.

Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium—A lovely shrub with blue-green, spiky leaflets, it is container-hardy to Zone 7 and can take some shade. Yellow flowers are borne in spring, followed by grape-shaped (non-edible) fruit. This evergreen shrub grows to approximately 3 feet tall.

Japanese Holly Ilex crenata—A small-leafed evergreen with black berries borne on female plants, this holly is more drought-tolerant than most and grows best in well-drained soils. It grows well in sun or shade and is container-hardy to Zone 7.

Spirea Spiraea thunbergii—One of the earliest spring-flowering shrubs, it has numerous white flowers. The foliage of this bushy plant turns a pretty orange-yellow in fall. Prune it to keep it in shape. It is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Small Trees

Purpleleaf Sand Cherry Prunus x cistena—The purple foliage makes this tree an excellent and valuable accent plant. Grow it as a multi-stemmed shrub or a small tree. It is container-hardy to Zone 4.

Apricot Prunus armeniaca—This attractive small tree has pretty pink flowers in April or May, followed by edible fruit in July and August. This apricot is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Colorado Bristlecone Pine Pinus aristata—The needles of this slow-growing North American native evergreen have an attractive bluish cast. Its picturesque growth habit is reminiscent of a trained bonsai and makes this plant a natural focal point. It is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Downy Serviceberry Amelanchier arborea—This North American native has several things to recommend it. Delicate, white flowers precede foliage in very early spring and its gray bark is lovely year-round. This Amelanchier is the most drought-tolerant of the genus, grows in sun or shade, and is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Black-Haw Viburnum prunifolium—An incredibly tough North American native, black-haw or plum-leaf viburnum, as it is also known, tolerates dry conditions and will grow in partial shade or sun. White, flat-topped flowers in May are followed by black fruit in September. This tree has reddish purple fall color and is container-hardy to Zone 5.

Groundcovers

Carpet Bugleweed Ajuga reptans—This is an attractive groundcover all summer long that comes in a wide variety of foliage colors (bronze, purple, white, green). Lovely purple-blue flowers cover the plant in spring. It grows quickly, spreading by stolons, and is container-hardy to Zone 5.

Common Bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi—This North American native is a slow grower but worth waiting for. It's container-hardy to Zone 5, and its evergreen foliage takes on a pretty bronze tint in winter. Long-lasting red berries follow pink, bell-shaped spring flowers.

Creeping Juniper Juniperus horizontalis—A tough North American native whose prostrate growth habit is well suited to draping a container edge. Container-hardy to Zone 5, its numerous cultivars offer varying shades of evergreen foliage, including blue-green, gray-blue, and dark green. Blue berries are an added bonus.

Cliff Green Paxistima canbyi—A North American native evergreen shrub with a low growth habit that makes it a useful groundcover. It's container-hardy to Zone 6 and will grow in sun or shade. Well-drained sandy soil is best. Leaves are small and linear and turn bronze in fall.

Wooly Thyme Thymus pseudolanuginosus—The creeping growth habit of this thyme is particularly useful in containers, allowing it to fill in the gaps between neighboring plants. Its leaves are fuzzy, fragrant, and very tough. This herb is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Ornamental Grasses

Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster' (syn. 'Stricta')—The botanical name is a mouthful, but worth learning to pronounce. This grass has a narrow, upright growth habit, reaches 5 feet in height, and needs full sun. It blooms in summer and its panicles are persistent, adding winter interest to your container. It is container-hardy to Zone 7.


Fountain grass, with fuzzy flower spikes.
Big Blue Stem Andropogon gerardii—This native North American grass once covered the prairies. It grows to 4 to 6 feet tall in containers, and its silvery blue foliage is truly beautiful. In fall, stems turn a striking coppery color. This grass grows best in full sun and is container-hardy to Zone 6.

Maiden Grass Miscanthus sinensis 'Gracillimus' and zebra grass (M. sinensis 'Zebrinus') are two cultivars of Miscanthus with a clumping habit and a moderate growth rate. 'Gracillimus' reaches 5 to 6 feet tall and is topped by showy flowers in October. 'Zebrinus' has horizontal yellow stripes and reaches 7 feet tall. Both are hardy to Zone 7 and provide excellent winter interest. Maiden grass is invasive in some areas throughout the eastern U.S., from Florida to Texas, north to Massachusetts and New York. People who live in areas where maiden grass has proven problematic should refrain from growing it.

Tufted Fescue Festuca amethystina—A superb accent plant with beautiful gray-blue foliage topped by tan panicles of flowers in late summer. One of our smaller ornamental grasses, it grows to approximately 12 inches and does very well in containers. It is container-hardy to Zone 6, frequently evergreen, and can be cut back to the ground in early spring.

Fountain Grass Pennisetum setaceum—An annual grass in the north and well worth growing for its long-lasting, beautiful, fuzzy flower spikes. Cultivars with coppery red spikes and foliage are particularly useful as accent plants. This grass grows to 24 to 36 inches tall, depending on the cultivar.

Xeriscaping Tips for Container Gardeners
Container gardening presents its own set of challenges, among them more stressful growing conditions: As it holds only a limited amount of soil, a container offers limited room for roots to spread, dries out faster, and has a higher soil temperature. The following tips are based on principles formulated by the National Xeriscape Council, Inc., a non-profit organization, which serves as an informational clearinghouse for people interested in xeriscaping.

Plan Ahead: Consider where you're placing your containers. For example, a spot in the sun can be 20° F. hotter than a nearby spot in the shade, so put your most drought-tolerant plants in the most exposed part of the garden. Trellises and arbors, as well as trees, create useful pockets of shade, so take advantage of them. In addition, group only plants with similar water requirements in the same container. By choosing plants with similar requirements, you can reduce water waste and improve your plants' health, since each will receive what it needs; no more, no less. If you want to include a few water-lovers in your garden, select shade-tolerant varieties, and place the container in the shade.

Select Appropriate Plants: Choose plants suited to your region and microclimate. You've got some leeway here, because xeriscaping can mean different things in different parts of the country, depending on average temperature and rainfall. Start by looking at plants native to the drier habitats in your area; these plants frequently thrive without supplemental water.

Improve the Potting Mix: Use a potting mix that's quick-draining, water-retentive, and nutrient-rich. Consider adding an inorganic soil conditioner to your mix. Water-retaining polymers (hydrogels), for example, hold several hundred times their weight in water and release it gradually to the plants' roots; one teaspoon absorbs one quart of water. Finally, mycorrhizal fungi improve the ability of a plant to take up water and nutrients by working with the plant's root system. Packets of mycorrhizal fungi (combined with hydrogels, soil conditioners, and bio-stimulants) are available commercially and should be added to the soil before planting.

Irrigate efficiently: If you use an irrigation system, minimize water waste by applying the water exactly where it is needed. If possible, use drip emitters to deliver water to each container in your potted garden; drip irrigation systems use about 30 to 50 percent less water than sprinkler systems. They are highly efficient, delivering water directly to the roots of the plants, minimizing evaporation and run-off.

Use Mulch: A two- to three-inch layer of mulch covering the soil surface will cool the soil and help it retain moisture. In fact, soil that's one inch below a layer of mulch can be up to 10° F. cooler than unmulched soil at the same depth. Mulch reduces weed growth and organic mulch improves the fertility of the soil as it decomposes. It also prevents crusting of the soil surface, allowing water to penetrate to the root zone. Finally, the dark color and uneven surface of mulch limits reflectivity. Sand and clay soils can be highly reflective and bounce heat and light up onto plants. The fragmented surface of mulch reduces reflectivity and cools the adjacent area. Shredded or chipped bark, compost, and cocoa hulls make excellent mulches and will help you conserve water.

Maintain the Xeriscape: The initial soil preparation should be adequate for at least the first growing season. Do not overfertilize your xeriscape container garden, since this promotes weak growth that requires extra water. Keep pruning to a minimum as it actually encourages growth. Rather than pruning, research the growth habits of the plants you're interested in and pick only those that are the right size for your space. Be a vigilant weeder. Weeds compete with your plants for water and nutrients, thus increasing the total amount of water the container requires.
________________________________________
Ellen Zachos is a Harvard graduate and received her Certificate in Horticulture from The New York Botanical Garden. She specializes in tropical plants and has restored several greenhouses in the New York City area, which she now maintains for her clients. Her company, Acme Plant Stuff, installs and maintains commercial and residential interior and exterior gardens in New York City.

Water-Saving Strategies

Drought-Proofing Your Garden—Essential Water-Saving Strategies

Plants & Gardens News, Volume 17, Number 2 | Summer 2002

by Janet Marinelli and Niall Dunne

Severe to extreme drought conditions are affecting large portions of North America, including the Atlantic Coast from Maine to Georgia, the Plains states, and significant parts of the Southwest as well. New York City's experience has been typical of many urban and suburban areas. On April 1, the city declared a Stage 1 Drought Emergency, introducing numerous restrictions on industrial, municipal, and domestic water use. Gotham's gardeners are only allowed to water their lawns every other day for two hours in the morning and the evening, and they can only water the rest of their plants using hand-held watering cans or low-flow irrigation equipment.


Don't be fooled by those days of plentiful rain in April and May, because water reservoirs in much of the East are still well below normal capacity. And there has been no easing of water restrictions. We still need an abnormally high amount of rainfall for water supplies to get back on track by next year.

A drought emergency is a time to take steps to substantially reduce water use in the garden. It's also a good time to take stock of our gardening practices and to consider how out of tune they are with normal fluctuations in yearly rainfall and snowfall. Below are some tips on how to conserve water while coaxing your plants through the current drought. These are followed by longer-term solutions that will help make your garden more compatible with natural precipitation patterns.

Drought Facts

First, a couple of basic questions: What's causing the current drought? With icebergs the size of Rhode Island breaking off Antarctica, one might be tempted to link the drought to human-influenced global warming. But experts say it's premature to characterize what is probably a normal fluctuation in the weather (the short-term state of the atmosphere) as a climatological event (a long-term trend).

The earth's climate, of course, continuously changes without any help from us, cycling through periods of warming and cooling. It has to do with everything from fluctuations in solar activity to shifts in the planet's orbital tilt. In other words, even if you left humanity out of the picture, drought would be a regular occurrence.

What exactly is a drought? Climatologists have a list of different definitions, reflecting the complexity of the phenomenon. Generally speaking, it is a period of less-than-average rainfall. Predicting when a drought will end, or when a new one will begin, is close to impossible.

"Basically each day is a new slate," says Mark Svoboda, a climatologist with the National Drought Mitigation Center, an advisory institution based at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. "The drought could be over soon, or it could draw out for years."

Svoboda points out that "because drought is so unpredictable and hard to read, and because it is a natural part of our climate cycle, we need to be conserving water at all times, even when it seems to be in abundance."

Ten Short-Term Tips

Here are ten easy ways you can conserve water in your garden this summer without harming your plants:

Water your plants early in the morning. Mornings are cool, and water doesn't evaporate as readily as it does in the heat of the afternoon. Evenings are cool too, but water sitting on leaves overnight can cause fungal diseases.

Water less frequently but deeply. Frequent, shallow waterings lead to weak, shallow-rooted plants. Less frequent, thorough waterings encourage roots to grow deep, where the soil stays moist longer.

Water the soil, not the plants. Use a watering can, soaker hoses, drip irrigation, or other water-conserving irrigation techniques that saturate the soil while leaving the foliage dry.

Mulch your plantings. A two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch such as shredded leaves or bark or compost slows evaporation by shading the soil, slows water runoff, and as a bonus, enriches the soil as it breaks down.

Don't prune, fertilize, or apply pesticides during a drought emergency. All of these would put additional stress on your plants.

Put off major planting projects until water is more plentiful. All newly established plants require a lot of irrigation. It's best to delay planting trees, shrubs, and large herbaceous borders until the drought is over.

Choose drought-tolerant plants for pots and for filling in existing plantings. Certain characteristics indicate that a plant has low water requirements: Plants with silvery, hairy, or fuzzy leaves (such as woolly thyme, Thymus pseudolanuginosus), succulent leaves (such as rose moss, Portulaca species), or leaves with a waxy coating (such as ivy-leaved geranium, Pelargonium peltatum) are good choices. Plants with long taproots, such as butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), are good choices as well. See "Drought-Tolerant Plants," page 13, for more recommendations.

Improve potting mixes. For your container plants, consider incorporating hydrogels into the potting soil. These water-retaining polymers hold several hundred times their weight in water and release it gradually to the plants' roots. Be careful not to add more than the recommended amount—too much of a good thing and your plants will be pushed out of their containers by the expanding crystals. Presoaking hydrogels until they are fully expanded makes them easier to incorporate with the potting soil in the proper ratio.

Cut down on mowing, fertilizing, and watering, and let your lawn go dormant. Mowing causes water loss. Mow during the coolest part of the day, and leave the clippings, which return small but valuable amounts of moisture to your lawn. Raise the mowing height, because taller grass shades the soil, reducing water loss; the University of Massachusetts Extension recommends settings of two to three inches. Most turfgrasses are adapted to summer drought. They turn a nice buff brown color as they go dormant, sending their water reserves down to the roots for safekeeping. Given a bare minimum of water, your lawn will green up again in fall when temperatures cool.

Consider collecting and recycling water. Depending on where you live, you may be able to connect your downspouts to rain barrels to collect roof runoff. When water used for boiling pasta and vegetables cools, use it to water your plants. Use of other types of "gray water," such as that from showers, baths, washing machines, and dishwashers, is regulated by some municipalities, and the detergents and other chemicals in the water can be harmful to some plants.

Long-Term Solutions

The following additional steps will make your garden much less vulnerable to future droughts as they preserve supplies of fresh water. It's best to save these projects until the current drought is over.

Reduce the size of your lawn. The typical lawn requires regular irrigation and care to maintain its aesthetic appeal. Consider widening your borders and planting beds, and replacing thirsty turfgrass with water-thrifty trees and shrubs. Once established, most trees and shrubs require less water than herbaceous plants. Fill in with drought-tolerant perennials, annuals, bulbs, and groundcovers. See the box below for specific recommendations.

Add organic matter to the soil as you plant. Compost and other organic matter increase the soil's ability to retain moisure.

Switch to low-maintenance grasses in remaining lawn areas. One very attractive alternative is buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides), a fine-leafed, soft-textured species indigenous to the Great Plains. Because it is adapted to the periodic and prolonged droughts characteristic of that region, it needs minimal water once established and no fertilizer. For profiles of this and other water-efficient grasses, see BBG's handbook Easy Lawns.



Supplier Information

Most good local home-improvement stores and garden centers carry a range of products that can help you conserve water. Another retail source is the Gardener's Supply Company (128 Intervale Road, Burlington, VT 05401; 800-427-3363; www.gardeners.com), which sells soaker hoses, drip-irrigation systems, root-zone watering devices, rain barrels, water-efficient planters, and hydrogel. M.K. Rittenhouse & Sons (1402 Fourth Avenue, St. Catherines, ON L2R6PQ, Canada; 877-488-1914; www.rittenhouse.ca) offers many of the same products plus a rain-sensitive sprinkler system. Home Harvest Garden Supply, Inc. (3807 Bank Street, Baltimore, MD 21224; 800-348-4769; www.homeharvest.com) is an online company that sells drip-irrigation systems, watering cans, and precision hose nozzles. Agrosoke International (1004 N. Bowen, Arlington, TX 76012; 800-880-2476; www.agrosoke.com) manufactures the hydrogel Agrosoke™.

For more drought information, visit BBG's Gardener's Resource Center or the Drought Response section of our web site.



Drought-Tolerant Plants
Deciduous Trees

· Amelanchier arborea, Shadbush, Downy serviceberry
· Carpinus caroliniana, American hornbeam
· Carya ovata, Shagbark hickory
· Cotinus obovatus, American smoketree
· Crataegus species, Hawthorns
· Diospyros virginiana, American persimmon
· Halesia carolina, Carolina silverbells
· Liquidambar styraciflua, American sweetgum
· Prunus x cistena, Purpleleaf sand cherry
· Quercus species, Oaks (many species)
· Sassafras albidum, Sassafras
· Tilia species, Lindens

Shrubs

· Aesculus parviflora, Bottlebrush buckeye
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Aronia arbutifolia, A. melanocarpa, Chokeberries
· Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Bluemist', Clandon bluebeard
· Ceanothus americanus, New Jersey tea
· Chaenomeles x superba, Flowering quince
· Cornus racemosa, Gray dogwood
· Corylus americana, American filbert
· Coylus avellana 'Contorta', Harry Lauder's walking stick
· Cotinus coggygria, Smokebush
· Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', Wallflower
· Hamamelis virginiana, Witch-hazel
· Hydrangea paniculata, Panicle hydrangea
· Itea virginica, Virginia sweetspire
· Lavandula angustifolia, Lavender
· Lespedeza thunbergii, Bush clover
· Myrica pensylvanica, Bayberry
· Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage
· Philadelphus coronarius, Mockorange
· Prunus maritima, Beach plum
· Rhus copallinum, Shining sumac
· Rosa rugosa, R. glauca, R. nitida, R. carolina, and other species, Species roses
· Santolina chamaecyparissus, Lavender cotton
· Symphoricarpos albus, Common snowberry
· Symphoricarpos orbiculatus, Coralberry
· Syringa species, Lilacs
· Vaccinium angustifolium, Lowbush blueberry
· Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood
· Viburnum lentago, Nannyberry

Needled Evergreens

· Abies concolor, White fir
· Cephalotaxus harringtonia, Japanese plum yew
· Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sawara false cypress
· Juniperus species, Junipers (most species)
· Picea species, Spruces (most species)
· Pinus species, Pines (most species)
· Taxus species, Yews (most species)
· Thuja occidentalis, Eastern arborvitae

Broadleaf Evergreens

· Ilex crenata, Japanese holly
· Ilex glabra, Inkberry
· Ilex x meserveae, Meserve holly
· Ilex opaca, American holly
· Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon grape

Vines

· Aristolochia macrophylla, Dutchman's pipe
· Bougainvillea species, Bougainvilleas
· Campsis radicans, Trumpet creeper
· Clematis montana, Anemone clematis
· Clematis terniflora, Sweet autumn clematis
· Ipomoea tricolor, Morning glory
· Lonicera sempervirens, Trumpet honeysuckle
· Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Virginia creeper
· Plumbago auriculata, Cape leadwort
· Wisteria frutescens, American wisteria
Groundcovers

· Ajuga reptans, Carpet bugleweed
· Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Bearberry
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Bergenia cordifolia, Bergenia
· Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-in-summer
· Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Ceratostigma
· Epimedium species, Barrenworts
· Juniperus horizontalis, Creeping juniper
· Liriope spicata, Lilyturf
· Pachysandra procumbens, Allegheny spurge
Paxistima canbyi, Cliff green
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Thymus species, Thymes

Perennials

· Achillea cultivars, Garden yarrow
· Agastache foeniculum, Anise hyssop
· Agastache cultivars, Hyssops
· Amsonia hubrichtii, Bluestar
· Anemone species, Anemones
· Arabis procurrens, A. alpina, Rock cresses
· Armeria maritima, Sea thrift
· Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly weed
· Aster species, Asters (many species)
· Baptisia australis, False blue indigo
· Chrysanthemum cultivars, Chrysanthemums
· Coreopsis species, Coreopsis
· Dianthus species, Pinks
· Diascia rigescens, D. barberae cultivars, Diascias
· Dicentra chrysantha, Golden eardrops
· Echinacea purpurea, Purple coneflower
· Echinops bannaticus, Globe thistle
· Eryngium bourgatii, Sea holly
· Euphorbia species, Euphorbias
· Gaillardia species, Blanket flowers
· Gaura lindheimeri, Gaura
· Hemerocallis species, Daylilies
· Iberis sempervirens, Candytuft
· Kniphofia cultivars, Torch flowers, red-hot pokers
· Liatris species, Blazing stars, gayfeathers
· Lychnis coronaria, Rose campion
· Nepeta species, Catmints
· Oenothera species, Evening primroses
· Origanum laevigatum, Ornamental and culinary oregano cultivars
· Papaver species, Poppies
· Penstemon species, Penstemons, beard-tongues
· Phlox subulata, Woodland phlox
· Physostegia virginiana, Obedient plant
· Pulsatilla vulgaris, Pasque flower
· Rudbeckia species, Black-eyed Susans
· Salvia species, Sages
· Sedum species, Sedums
· Sempervivuns tectorum, Hens and chicks
· Sisyrnchium angustifolium, Blue-eyed grass
· Stachys byzantina, Lamb's ear
· Thymus species, Thymes
· Verbascum bombyciferum and V. chaixii cultivars, Mulleins
· Yucca species, Yuccas

Bulbs and Tuberous Plants

· Agapanthus cultivars, Agapanthus
· Allium caeruleum, A. sphaerocephalum, and other allium cultivars, Ornamental onions
· Crocosmia cultivars, Montbretias
· Fritillaria species, Fritillaries
· Nectaroscordum siculum, Nectaroscordum
· Tulbaghia violacea, Society garlic

Annuals

· Calendula officinalis, Pot marigold
· Capsicum species, Ornamental peppers
· Celosia cristata, Cockscomb
· Eschscholzia californica, California poppy
· Felicia amelloides, Blue marguerite
· Gazania rigens, Gazania
· Helianthus annuus, Sunflower
· Helichrysum bracteatum, Strawflower
· Nigella damascena, Love-in-a-mist
· Papaver cultivars, Annual poppies
· Salvia species, Annual salvias
· Zinnia angustifolia, Zinnia

Ornamental Grasses

· Calamagrostis x acutiflora, Feather reed grass
· Festuca glauca, Blue fescue
· Helicotrichon sempervirens, Blue oat grass
· Panicum virgatum, Switch grass
· Pennisetum species, Fountain grasses
· Schizachyrium scoparium, Little bluestem
· Sorgastrum nutans, Indian grass




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brooklyn Botanic Garden Director of Publishing Janet Marinelli is editor of BBG's renowned series of quarterly gardening handbooks and the author of Your Natural Home and The Naturally Elegant Home. Janet is a champion of the gardener's role in the preservation of the planet, a philosophy that informs her P&G News column, "Down to Earth." It's a philosophy that also serves as the bedrock for her latest book, Stalking the Wild Amaranth: Gardening in the Age of Extinction. In Stalking the Wild Amaranth, Janet tells of her quest for a landscape art that protects disappearing species, both flora and fauna. It's a gardening journey marked by humor—ecologically sensitive gardening needn't be a dreary affair, Janet insists. "We can do our part," she says, "and still have flair and fun."

Niall Dunne is associate editior of Plants & Gardens News.

Drought Tolerance—Picking Plants that Consume Less Water
Plants & Gardens News Volume 14, Number 4 | Fall 1999

by Patricia M. Jonas

It's October, and the breezes have blown every cloud toward the ocean, leaving the blue sky marked only by a hawk circling. The clear light is perfect for evaluating a garden. This year, properly chastened by five of the driest months on record sandwiched between a wet March and even wetter September, I stand over beds and containers with notebook in hand and discerning eyes. Hundreds of bees are having their last great feast on airy drifts of asters and dissolute clumps of Japanese anemones. With the temperature brushing 70 degrees, it could be easy to forget just how punishing the summer was, and how watering absorbed my hours as relentlessly as the soil absorbed water. But I don't forget.

The notebook keeps me focused. I divide a page into two columns with the headings "IN" and "OUT." To make it into the first column, a plant has to have done more than hang on through the drought; and it has to have shown resilience under the hammering of spring and fall rains. I am ready to be ruthless. Well, at least unsentimental.

I garden in containers on a roof in Manhattan, and even with an average rainfall of 40 inches a year, all of my plants need supplemental water during the summer. The question of how much is one I too often unwisely ignore if a plant seduces me. Worse, I sometimes push a plant's winsome adaptability to a wide range of soil and moisture conditions in the wrong direction.

For example, I had chosen the very ornamental highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) over lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), which is more drought tolerant but has a somewhat scraggly habit more suited to shrublands and forests than to containers. Adapting to sometimes drier than ideal soil, the highbush blueberry flourished until I transplanted it into a container with a fragrant white form of thirsty swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), which begins blooming after the white urn-shaped flowers of the blueberry have fallen and are giving way to fruit. This sensually pleasing association worked for several years, but last summer it was so hot and dry that I couldn't satisfy the water needs of either the fiercely competitive milkweed or the shallow-rooted blueberry. Since the blueberry would have done just fine with a more generous partner, I've taken its side in the divorce, and the milkweed is OUT.

Seven Habits for Highly Effective Gardens
When There Is Drought and When There is Not

1. Divide your garden into zones and design for microclimates.
2. Choose water-frugal plants and group together those with similar needs.
3. Know the soil. Many drought-tolerant plants will fare well in rich and moisture-retentive soil; but others prefer low fertility and require very sharp drainage.
4. Mulch.
5. Minimize fertilizer use (fertilizers require supplemental irrigation).
6. Weed to reduce competition for water and help maintain healthy, pest-free plants.
7. Water deeply and less frequently, but don't waste water in run-off.


In order to conserve natural resources and better balance the demands of my garden with the pleasure it returns, I've resolved to grow plants that can handle environmental extremes with less intervention on my part. There are two questions I ask myself: Which plants are such misguided choices that the charms they flaunt happily in other settings are displayed only grudgingly in my garden? Which associations would squander less energy and capitalize on plant adaptability to less than perfect conditions?

My astilbes are obvious bad choices since they always require coddling -- even during summers of what used to be "normal" rainfall. Their leaves crisp the moment the soil dries out even a little, and their panicles (or branching clusters of flowers) rarely remain standing long enough to fade to lovely browns in autumn. Next spring these plants would no doubt unfurl their handsome leaves and send up sprightly panicles of rosy pink and white flowers, but now they are tattered and completely unsightly. OUT.

Planted nearby is black cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), reputed to be drought tolerant when established. My clump is almost ten years old, and although shaded from afternoon sun, its foliage is scorched by heat in the harshest summers. In a summer like the one past, even its four-foot candelabras humming with bees become too unsightly to leave up. The lesson here is that drought tolerance does not equal heat tolerance; some plants are not equipped to handle both water privation and very high temperatures. Even though I've grown black cohosh in every garden I've had for more than 20 years, it's OUT of this one.

On the other hand, in this same bed, clumps of variegated Japanese solomon's seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'Variegatum') and Japanese anemone (Anemone x hybrida 'Honorine Jobert') flourish just as well with less water, and are discouraged from colonizing as vigorously as they would in a consistently moist soil. IN.

Creating a water-conscious garden does not mean banishing roses, but removing a rose in this same bed that I've designated a moderate-to-low-water-usage zone allows a seven son flower (Heptacodium miconioides) more room to live up to its reputation for drought tolerance. IN. It's a small tree with tan, peeling bark and exceptionally fragrant white flowers whose nectar seems to have a narcotic effect on bees. In late summer, the seven son flower settles in comfortably with blue, lilac, and white asters. In spring, around the tree, the light yellow columbine Aquilegia canadensis 'Corbett' begins blooming with irises, and will thrive in drier conditions than its hybrid relatives. IN.

At the dry front of the bed, I think I'll plant prairie smoke (Geum triflorum), which is a very drought-tolerant ground cover with deeply cut gray-green foliage that never looks tattered. Knowing nothing about prairie smoke, but intrigued by its name, I first planted it almost 20 years ago after a trip to a local native plant nursery near Chicago. I was rewarded in even the driest years by delicate maroon flowers followed by the showy plumes that give the plant its common name. IN.

Knautia macedonica and clove-scented pinks work fine with lady's mantle and Rosa 'Abraham Darby' in a long, deep container of moisture-retentive soil, with plenty of compost and moderate water use, but they're better suited to drier conditions than either rose or lady's mantle. Pinks, with their gray-blue foliage, will also flourish in a very lean, gritty soil, so I'll move them and some of the Knautia to a less rich neighborhood. I'll leave some burgundy pincushions of the Knautia to sprawl over the sides of the box along with feathery Lotus berthelotti (a tender plant), and move in Allium cernuum with its nodding heads of pink flowers.

Many roses are tough and do have a place in the water-efficient mixed border. A surprising number will tolerate drought when established: Think of all the cemetery roses that have flourished for years with little care, and the thickets of Rosa carolina and R. rugosa on beach dunes. Rugosa roses like 'Sarah Van Fleet' and 'Blanc Double de Coubert' have proven themselves in adverse conditions. The Heritage Rose Foundation recently polled its members for roses that performed well during 1999's calamitous weather. Look for the results in their newsletter (write to The Heritage Rose Foundation, 1512 Gorman Street, Raleigh, NC 27606) or on their website (http://members.aol.com/Rosefoun/hrf.htm).

Further Reading
The following volumes offer additional tips on climate-conscious gardening. But keep in mind that the very qualities that help plants adapt to extreme conditions also make some of them invasive. Avoid using invasives in your garden, even if they are included in published plant lists.

The Dry Garden, by Beth Chatto. Sagapress. 1996. ISBN 0-898-31047-4

Taylor's Guide to Watersaving Gardening, Norman Taylor, Houghton Mifflin. 1990. ISBN 0-395-54422-X

The Undaunted Garden: Planting for Weather-Resilient Beauty, by Lauren Springer, Fulcrum Publishing. 1994. ISBN 1-555-91115-3

For a list of seed and plant suppliers, click here.



To get through winter floods, plants that originate in rocky places need sharp drainage and a mix of no more than 20 percent soil with the rest stone and sand. In a sunny, dry bed, I will increase the grit around the crown of the delicate pasqueflower (Pulsatilla patens) that didn't tolerate being waterlogged in March and September. When it has sufficient drainage, it blooms in April along with dwarf Iris pumila and species tulips. IN. I'll also move in variegated Sedum kamtschaticum and purple-stemmed Sedum 'Vera Jameson'. The pasqueflower's translucent dusky violet petals and feathery seed heads and the bright countenance of the tulips will provide contrast to the sedum's waxy flesh.

All summer in this low-water section of the garden, blowzy white flowers of Gaura lindheimeri bloom above common culinary salvia (Salvia officinalis 'Purpurascens') and gray-leafed lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus), clipped to maintain a dense shape. Lean, pale, steel-blue switch grass (Panicum virgatum 'Heavy Metal') is lit by afternoon sun and provides a backdrop for Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', whose flowers of rich amethyst are set off perfectly by velvety gray-green leaves. IN.

In a sun-drenched, moderate-to-low-water-use container, Baptisia alba -- its creamy white flowers followed by ornamental black seed pods -- is planted with velvety, green-gray leafed mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) and earth-colored yarrows. Tender Salvia darcyi and Agastache 'Firebird' add bright color to the mix all season. And there is tall ferny bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) with its self-seeded next generation taking root around it. Ah, all IN.

With the fennel, I won't need to shift anything -- just pull out the young seedlings and make salad. But there is prodigious shifting and carrying of perennials to be done about the rest of the garden. Even for autumn, these are grand plans. My list of spring planting ideas will surely grow as I pore over catalogs this winter -- as will, I trust, my resolve to attune my garden more wisely with its climate.

Seed & Plant Suppliers

Brent and Becky's Bulbs
7463 Heath Trail
Gloucester, VA USA 23061
Telephone: 877-661-2852
Fax: 804-693-9436
http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com

Fairweather Gardens ($3.00)
P.O. Box 330
Greenwich, NJ USA 08323
Telephone: 856-451-6261
Fax: 856-451-0303

Fieldstone Gardens, Inc. ($2.50)
620 Quaker Lane
Vassalboro, ME USA 04989-9713
Telephone: 207-923-3836
Fax: 207-923-3836
http://www.fieldstonegardens.com

Fragrant Path ($2.00)
P.O. Box 328
Fort Calhoun, NE USA 68023

Heronswood Nursery Ltd. ($5.00)
7530 NE 288th Street
Kingston, WA USA 98346-9502
Telephone: 360-297-4172
Fax: 360-297-8321
http://www.heronswood.com

Plants of the Southwest ($3.50)
Aqua Fria, Rt. 6, Box 11A
Santa Fe, NM USA 87501
Telephone: 800-788-7333
Fax: 505-438-8800
http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com

Prairie Nursery
P.O. Box 306
Westfield, WI USA 53964
Telephone: 800-476-9453
Fax: 608-296-2741
http://www.prairienursery.com

We-Du Nurseries ($2.00)
Route 5, Box 724
Marion, NC USA 28752-9338
Telephone: 828-738-8300
Fax: 828-738-8131
http://www.we-du.com/

Windrose ($3.00)
1093 Mill Road
Pen Argyl, PA USA 18072-9670
Telephone: 610-588-1037
Fax: 610-599-0968
http://www.windrosenursery.com

Richters
Goodwood
Ontario L0C 1A0, Canada
Telephone: 905-640-6677
Fax: 905-640-6641
http://www.richters.com

Digging Dog Nursery
P.O. Box 471
Albion, CA USA 95410
Telephone: 707-937-1130
Fax: 707-937-2480

Forestfarm ($4.00)
990 Tetherow Road
Williams, OR USA 97544-9599
Telephone: 541-846-7269
Fax: 541-846-6963
http://www.forestfarm.com


Prairie Ridge Nursery
9738 Overland Rd.
Mt. Horeb, WI USA 53572-2832
Telephone: 608-437-5245
Fax: 608-437-8982

Shady Acres Herb Farm ($3.00)
7815 Highway 212
Chaska, MN USA 55318
Telephone: 612-466-3391
Fax: 612-466-4739
http://www.shadyacres.com

Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery ($3.00)
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR USA 97501-1538
Telephone: 541-772-6846
Fax: 541-772-4917
http://www.wave.net/upg/srpn

Thompson & Morgan
P.O. Box 1308
Jackson, NJ USA 08527-0308
Telephone: 800-274-7333
Fax: 888-466-4769
http://www.thompson-morgan.com


Antique Rose Emporium ($5.00)
9300 Lueckemeyer Road
Brenham, TX USA 77833-6453
Telephone: 800-441-0002
Fax: 409-836-0928

David Austin Roses Limited ($5.00)
15393 Highway 64 West
Tyler, TX USA 75704
Telephone: 903-526-1800
Fax: op3-526-1900
http://www.davidaustinroses.com

Roseraie at Bayfields
P.O. Box R
Waldoboro, ME USA 04572-0919
Telephone: 207-832-6330
Fax: 800-933-4508
http://www.roseraie.com

Arborvillage ($1.00)
P.O. Box 227
Holt, MO USA 64048
Telephone: 816-264-3911
Fax: 816-264-3760

Eastern Plant Specialties ($3.00)
Box 226
Georgetown, ME USA 04548
Telephone: 732-382-2508
Fax: 732-382-2508
http://www.easternplant.com

High Country Gardens
2902 Rufina Street
Santa Fe, NM USA 87505-2929
Telephone: 800-925-9387
Fax: 800-925-0097
http://www.highcountrygardens.com

Plant Delights Nursery, Inc.
9241 Sauls Road -Tony & Michelle Avent
Raleigh, NC USA 27603
Telephone: 919-772-4794
Fax: 919-662-0370
http://www.plantdelights.com

Niche Gardens (Spr.-$3.00)
1111 Dawson Road
Chapel Hill, NC USA 27516
Telephone: 919-967-0078
Fax: 919-967-4026
http://www.nichegdn.com

----------------------------------------
As director of Library Services at BBG, Patricia M. Jonas always has her hands full answering questions from the public about plants, horticulture, and landscape design.

Ten Tips For Maintaining Proper Hydration

Ten Tips For Maintaining Proper Hydration

The Nutrition Information Center at the New York Hospital, Cornell Medical Center offers the following tips for maintaining proper hydration:

Follow conventional wisdom—drink at least eight, eight-ounce servings of water each day. The more time you spend outside, the more water you need to replenish lost fluids.

Don't wait until you're thirsty to drink water. By the time you feel thirsty, you probably have already lost two or more cups of your total body water.
Drink plenty of water throughout the day. Convenience is a must, so carry a bottle of water with you as you commute to work, run errands or enjoy the day at the beach.
Don't substitute caffeinated coffees, teas and sodas for water. Caffeine acts as a diuretic, causing you to lose water through increased urination. Alcoholic beverages have a similar effect.
Keep a bottle of water on your desk if finding time to drink water is a problem. Or, visit the office water cooler and take water break rather than a coffee break.
Once you start exercising, don't stop drinking. Keep a bottle of water with you and take frequent water breaks.
Don't underestimate the amount of fluids lost from perspiration. You need to drink two cups of water for each pound lost following a workout.
Start and end your day with a serving of water. Your body loses water while you sleep. So drink a serving before bed and again when you wake up.
Don't forget that common maladies such as colds and the flu can frequently lead to dehydration. Keep a large bottle of water next to your bed so you can sip it throughout the day without having to get up.
Remember that when it's warm outside, cold water—not carbonated soft drinks or sport drinks—is the best fluid for keeping hydrated. Cool water is absorbed much more quickly than warm fluids and may have a positive effect on cooling off your overheated body.

NUTRITION 101: Water
Sixth in a series of six nutrition primers
The biggest component of the human body, water is the most indispensable nutrient. A complete lack of fluids will result in death within a few days. In the body, water transports essential cargo - nutrients and oxygen - to even the most remote body locations, even as it carries out and excretes waste products. Body water protects organs, lubricates joints, regulates temperature and provides the backdrop for the body's many chemical reactions.

A minimum of two quarts of fluid are recommended daily. Fluid sources include many foods (e.g. crunchy fruits and veggies and "liquid" foods such as soup or pudding) as well as water, milk, 100% fruit juice and other beverages. (Caffeine-containing beverages and alcohol actually promote fluid loss through their diuretic action). It's important to drink regularly and not rely solely on the thirst mechanism. Thirst is not always a good indicator of fluid need, especially when an individual has been exercising or working in a warm environment.

Hard water, found in shallow ground, is better for health and provides small amounts of calcium and magnesium. Soft water, which comes from deep wells or artificial softeners, is not a good choice for drinking water. Soft water leaches lead, cadmium and other contaminants from pipes and is a source of sodium.

The younger the child, the more critical the need for fluids. Infants, with 75% of their body weight as water, need the most fluid relative to their body size. One reason is that the kidneys of infants and young children have not developed the capacity to quickly adjust to extremes in body water. It's no coincidence that breast milk, a newborn's sole food, is packaged in a liquid form.

Under normal, room-temperature conditions, a 22 pound one year-old needs about 4 1/2 cups of fluid daily, a 44 pound preschooler requires between 6-7 cups daily, while a 70 pound school-aged child requires 7-8 cups fluid each day. Children should be offered fluids often, since the thirst mechanism doesn't kick in until a child is already mildly dehydrated.

Keep in mind that these figures are averages and an individual child's fluid mileage is certain to vary. Intestinal illness (vomiting and diarrhea), fever, heat stress or physical activity all result in a loss of liquids. Dehydration among young children can quickly turn serious so it's important that parents are aware of the early signs of fluid loss, including fewer diapers or infrequent urination, dark, concentrated urine and a tongue which appears "coated" rather than wet looking. As dehydration progresses, the eyes may appear sunken, and a child may feel nauseous, experience muscle cramps and pain or complain of clammy skin and a throbbing heart. At this stage, immediate medical attention is necessary.
"Thirst is not always a good indicator of fluid need, especially when an individual has been exercising or working in a warm environment."

State and National Drought Information

Department of Environmental Protection/NYC Water Use Restriction
National Drought Mitigation Center
Drought Monitor Map of current national conditions
NYState Dept. of Environmental Conservation
NYS Drought Regions