Brooklyn Queens Land Trust

GARDEN BASICS/PRINCIPIOS de JARDIN

Basic Plant Requirements/los Requisitos Basicos de Planta

Greetings Gardeners,

When I first began to garden, many of my current practices were learned by watching my elders - those who went before me. Often, I copied what I did not knowing "why". After several costly mistakes, such as killing off newly purchased perennial plants, I decided to do some research and experimentation.

Taking several courses, reading, and buying several gardening books, did not make me a gardener. Only persistence, patience, good weather conditions, clean gardening practices, good gardening buddies, and water brought a measure of success. NOTE: Admittedly, I am not the BEST gardener, but I can safely eat my produce and share with neighbors.

Rather than assume that all persons reading this newsletter are expert gardeners, I will try to always include some basic gardening information in my columns. Hopefully, it will help someone else avoid the many garden disasters that I created. While mistakes will still (more likely than not) be made -- this knowledge will help build gardening confidence --along with practice.

I will include the sources of my information, whenever possible. If the name is not immediately available, I will check several different respected sources before publishing. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden allows the use of their Garden Resource Center, Science Library, several of the BBG and BQLT gardeners offer gardening tips, and I search bookstores and the Internet.


Brooklyn Queens Land Trust has over 380 members. This constitutes a wealth of knowledge and it is seldom difficult to find some one of them willing to share gardening information. If you have any gardening questions that you'd like answered, please use our discussion area. Someone will answer, as soon as possible, and as soon as the garden allows.

Happy gardening,
Make it a good day.
Ceci


The following information comes from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)

Anyone interested in gardening has one question in mind when choosing a new plant: Will it thrive in my garden?
Many factors come into play to determine whether or not a plant will perform well for you. Each kind of plant has its own needs and requirements. Some plants, like the dandelion, are tolerant of a wide variety of conditions, while others, such as the pink ladyslipper orchid, have very exacting requirements. Before you spend the time, effort, and money attempting to grow a new plant in your garden, it is best to do some research to learn something about the conditions that the plant needs to grow properly.

Here is a brief description of some of the environmental parameters that influence plant growth:

Daylength

Daylength is usually the most critical factor in regulating vegetative growth, flower initiation and development, and the induction of dormancy. Plants utilize daylength as a cue to promote their growth in spring and prepare them for the cold weather. Many plants require specific daylength conditions to initiate flowers.

Light

Light is the energy source for plants. Cloudy, rainy days or the shade cast by nearby plants and structures can significantly reduce the amount of light available. Shade adapted plants cannot tolerate the bright light of full sun. Plants survive only where the amount is within a range they can tolerate.

Temperature

Plants grow best within an optimum range of temperatures; and the range may be wide for some species, narrow for others. Plants survive only where temperatures allow them to carry on life-sustaining chemical reactions.

Cold

Plants differ in their ability to survive cold temperatures. Some tropical plants are injured by temperatures below 60¡?£F. Arctic species can tolerate temperatures well below zero. The ability of a plant to withstand cold is a function of the degree of dormancy present in the plant, its water status, and general health. Exposure to wind and bright sunlight or rapidly changing temperatures can also compromise a plant's cold tolerance.

Heat

Heat tolerance varies widely from species to species. Many plants that naturally grow in arid tropical regions are naturally very heat tolerant, while subarctic plants and alpine plants show very little tolerance for heat. High night temperatures are often the most limiting factor for many plants.

Water

Different plants have different water needs. Some tolerate drought during the summer but need winter rains. Others need a consistent supply of moisture to grow well. Careful attention to the need for supplemental water can help you select plants that need a minimum of irrigation to perform well in your garden. If you have poorly drained, chronically wet soil, you can select lovely garden plants that naturally grow in bogs, fens, and other wet places.
pH

The ability of plant roots to take up certain nutrients depends on the pH, which is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of your soil. Most plants grow best in soils that have a pH near 7.0. Most ericaceous plants such as azaleas and blueberries need acid soils with pH below 6.0 to grow well. Lime can be used to raise pH and materials containing sulfates such as aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate can be used to lower pH. The solubility of many trace elements is controlled by pH, and only the soluble forms of these important micronutrients can be used by plants. Iron is not very soluble at high pH and iron chlorosis is often present in high-pH soils, even if they contain abundant iron.


Los Requisitos b?¡sicos de la Planta/b?¡sicos de Los Requisitos de Planta
Los Jardineros de saludos,



Cu?¡ndo yo comenc?primero al jard?­n, muchas de mis pr?¡cticas actuales se aprendieron de mirar mis ancianos. A menudo, copi?lo que hice no instruido "por qu?. Despu?©s que varios errores caros, tal como matando plantas lejos nuevamente compradas de planta perenne, yo decid?hacer alguna investigaci?³n y la experimentaci?³n.



Tomar varios cursos, leer, y comprar varios libros de la horticultura, no me hicieron un jardinero. S?³lo persistencia, la paciencia, las condiciones de tiempo de bien, limpian la horticultura practica, compa?±eros buenos de horticultura, y el agua trajeron una medida de ?©xito. La NOTA: Admittedly, yo no soy el MEJOR jardinero, pero yo pueda seguramente Coma mi producto y la acci?³n con vecinos.



Antes que asume que todas personas que leen este bolet?­n es jardineros expertas, yo tratar?de siempre incluir alguna informaci?³n b?¡sica de la horticultura en mis columnas. Optimistamente, ayudar?otra persona evita los muchos desastres del jard?­n que cre? Mientras los errores hacen tranquilo (m?¡s probable que no) sea hecho -este conocimiento ayudar?construye la confianza de la horticultura -junto con la pr?¡ctica.



Incluir?las fuentes de mi informaci?³n, siempre que posible. Si el nombre no est?inmediatamente disponible, verificar?varias fuentes respetadas diferentes antes de publicar. El Brooklyn el Jard?­n Bot?¡nico permite el uso de su Centro del Recurso del Jard?­n, la Biblioteca de la Ciencia, varios del BBG y puntas de horticultura de oferta de jardineros de BQLT, y yo buscan librer?­as y el Internet.



Las Reinas de Brooklyn Aterrizan la Confianza tiene sobre 380 miembros. Esto constituye el conocimiento en abundancia y es rara vez dif?­cil de encontrar algunos uno de ellos dispuesto a compartir informaci?³n de horticultura. Si usted tiene cualquier horticultura pregunta que usted apreciar?­a contestado, utiliza por favor nuestra ?¡rea del discusi?³n. Alguien contestar? tan pronto como posible, y tan pronto como el jard?­n permite.



La horticultura feliz, lo Hace un buenos d?­as. Ceci




La informaci?³n siguiente viene del Departamento de estado Unido de la Agricultura (USDA)



¿Interes?cualquiera en la horticultura tiene una pregunta en la mente cuando escoger una planta nueva: prosperar?en mi jard?­n? Muchos factores entran en juego para determinar si o no una planta realizar?bien para usted. Cada clase de planta tiene sus propias necesidades y los requisitos. Algunos plantan, como el diente de le?³n, son tolerante de una gran variedad de condiciones, mientras los otros, tal como la orqu?­dea rosa de ladyslipper, tiene los requisitos muy exigentes. Antes usted gasta el tiempo, el esfuerzo, y procurar de dinero para crecer una planta nueva en su jard?­n, deber?hacer mejor alguna investigaci?³n para aprender algo acerca de las condiciones que la planta necesita crecer apropiadamente.



Aqu?est?una descripci?³n breve de parte del par?¡metros ambientales que influyen el crecimiento de planta:



Daylength



Daylength es generalmente el factor m?¡s cr?­tico en regular el crecimiento vegetativo, en la iniciaci?³n de flor y desarrollo, y en la inducci?³n de dormancy. Las plantas utilizan daylength como una indicaci?³n para promover su crecimiento en el primavera y los prepara para el tiempo fr?­o. Muchas plantas requieren las condiciones espec?­ficas de daylength a iniciar flores.



La luz



La luz es la fuente de la energ?­a para plantas. Los d?­as nublados y lluviosos o el molde de la sombra por cerca de plantas y estructuras puede reducir apreciablemente la cantidad de ligero disponible. D?sombra plantas adaptadas no pueden tolerar la luz brillante del sol repleto. Las plantas sobreviven s?³lo donde la cantidad est?dentro de una gama que ellos pueden tolerar.



La temperatura



Las plantas crecen mejor dentro de una gama ?³ptima de temperaturas; y la gama puede ser ancha para alguna especie, estrecha para otros. Las plantas sobreviven s?³lo donde temperaturas permiten que ellos contin?ºen la vida sostener las reacciones qu?­micas.



El resfriado



Las plantas difieren en su habilidad de sobrevivir las temperaturas fr?­as. Algunas plantas tropicales son heridas por temperaturas debajo de 60¡?£F. La especie ?¡rtica puede tolerar las temperaturas bien bajo cero. La habilidad de una planta para resistir al resfriado es una funci?³n del grado del presente de dormancy en la planta, en su posici?³n de agua, y en la salud general. La exposici?³n para enrollar y la luz del sol brillante o las temperaturas r?¡pidamente cambiantes pueden ceder tambi?©n una tolerancia fr?­a de planta.



El calor
La tolerancia del calor var?­a extensamente de especie a la especie. Muchas plantas que crecen naturalmente en regiones tropicales ?¡ridas son naturalmente muy el calor tolerante, mientras subarctic planta y plantas de planta alpestre muestran la tolerancia muy peque?±a para el calor. Las temperaturas altas de la noche son a menudo el factor m?¡s restrictivo para muchas plantas.



El agua



Las plantas diferentes tienen las necesidades diferentes de agua. Algunos toleran la sequ?­a durante el verano pero las lluvias de invierno de necesidad. Los otros necesitan un suministro constante de la humedad para crecer bien. La atenci?³n cuidadosa a la necesidad para suplementario lo puede ayudar a escoger planta eso necesita un m?­nimo de la irrigaci?³n para realizar bien en su jard?­n. Si usted ha desaguado mal, moj?cr?³nicamente tierra, usted puede escoger plantas encantadoras de jard?­n que crecen naturalmente en ci?©nagas, en los pantanos, y en otros lugares mojados. el pH



La habilidad de ra?­ces de planta para tomar ciertos alimentos nutritivos depende del pH, que es una medida de la acidez o alkalinity de su tierra. La mayor?­a de las plantas crecen mejor en tierras que tienen un pH cerca de 7.0. LA MAYORIA de LOS ericaceous plantan tal como las azaleas y los ar?¡ndanos necesitan tierras ?¡cidas con pH debajo de 6.0 en crecer bien. La cal se puede utilizar para levantar pH y materias sulfatos que contienen tal como sulfato de aluminio y sulfato de hierro se pueden utilizar para bajar pH. La solubilidad de muchos elementos de la huella es controlada por pH, y s?³lo las formas solubles de estos micronutrients importante pueden ser utilizadas por plantas. El hierro no es muy soluble en chlorosis alto de pH e hierro es a menudo presente en tierras de pH alto, incluso si ellos contengan hierro abundante.

You wouldn’t dream of moving into a house without taking a look at the area. It’s the same in a garden. Before you can grow anything, you need to know what sort of conditions you have. Then you can choose plants that are suited to them. There really is no need to waste money on plants that will hate your environment.

You’ll need to know what sort of soil you have, how much light there is and the prevailing weather conditions. Is it a windy site, a particularly cold one, or is it sunny and sheltered? All the information you need to succeed is here.

Assessing your plot
Just like you, your garden is unique and has character. It is this character, a distinctive set of conditions that work together, which determines what you can grow successfully.
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Understand your garden’s character and you’re well on the way to becoming a blossoming gardener. That’s what we’ll be doing over the next few pages.
We’ll look at the following range of conditions and show you how to discover what they are in your garden:

Light

The importance of light

Put bluntly, plants die without sunlight. Sunlight is the ‘engine?that powers growth - a process called photosynthesis.

In the wild (which is where most garden plants come from) light levels vary. Being cunning little chaps, different plants evolved to thrive in different levels of light. Clearly the amount of light your garden gets will have a big impact on what plants grow well.
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Aspect

The overall amount of light received depends on aspect, the direction your garden faces. Use a compass.

North-facing gardens get the least light and can be damp

South-facing gardens get the most light

East-facing gardens get morning light

West-facing gardens get afternoon and evening light


Moisture
Plants need water
Just like you, plants need water. There must be a constant supply because plants are like giant wicks. Water is sucked from the soil by roots, drawn up the stem and lost through the leaves.

Your ‘soil moisture content?
The amount of water in the soil is influenced by:

Local annual rainfall
Time of year
Soil type
Aspect

The water table - the point in the soil at which water drains away

Shady or north facing corners often have damp soil

Much of the rainfall tends to come from the south west. Easterly aspects, protected by the house, tend to be dry.

South-facing beds, or those in the ‘rain shadow?of a wall, tend to be dry.

Plants have evolved to take advantage of variations in moisture content. So on wet soil you can plant a bog garden and grow moisture-loving plants; on free-draining soil you can create a gravel garden full of drought-tolerant species.

If your soil is too ‘extreme?
Improve moist soil by digging in lots of bulky organic manure. To dry it, install a drainage system.

On free draining soil, improve moisture retention by digging in bulky organic manure (wonderful stuff!) or installing an irrigation system. Be patient though, as this won't happen overnight.


Test your garden’s drainage

Dig a number of holes about 30cm (1ft) deep at random points across the garden

Fill with water

Leave to drain away naturally

If it takes more than 24 hours to disappear, drainage is poor

Check the height of your water table

Dig a 60cm (2ft) deep hole at the lowest point

Watch it for a couple of days in winter (when the water table is at its highest)
This will show you at what point plant roots will be in standing water ?important since many drought-tolerant species die if they have ‘wet feet.


Temperature

Garden plants come from all over the world and may be used to different temperatures to those in your garden. Knowing how cold your garden gets will help you to avoid plants that freeze to death!

A brief temperature guide

Southern Britain is generally warmer than the north

The Gulf Stream makes the west warmer than the east

As altitude increases, temperatures decrease.

Climate and weather

Climate affects the growing season and understanding the climate in your garden will help you to garden more successfully

Climate is also about altitude. For every 300m (328yd) your garden is above sea level, knock about two weeks off the growing season because the higher you are, the colder it is.
Climate is also about altitude. For every 300m (328yd) your garden is above sea level, knock about two weeks off the growing season because the higher you are, the colder it is.


Wind

The prevailing wind
The direction from which the wind most often blows will influence your garden’s character, and what you can grow. As a general rule, northerlies and easterlies are cold, while westerlies are warmer but stronger.

On a hot day, a gentle zephyr may be pleasant, but wind can also be a menace.

Wind worries

Long term, winds ‘deform?- think of sideways-growing trees in coastal areas!

Sudden gales snap branches and stems

An unexpected cold wind may ‘scorch?tender new growth, leaving it crispy brown

Even gentle winds can scorch plants that naturally live in sheltered woodland, for example, Japanese maples.

Damage limitation

Thankfully, preventing wind damage is easy.

Use canes to support plants

Surround the garden with a ‘shelterbelt??an ‘open?fence or hedge

In exposed locations, evergreen hedges provide more shelter in winter, while deciduous species such as beech and hornbeam are good in that they hold onto their dead leaves until the spring.

In coastal areas, plant salt-tolerant species such as tamarisk

Less attractive, but ‘instant? are rubber fabric strips stretched between poles ?an excellent stop-gap until hedges grow sufficiently tall

These shelterbelts all work because they are porous ?they slow wind down but allow it through. You may be wondering, "why not erect a wall or solid fence instead?" I'll tell you why - because they force the wind up and over, causing vortices that damage the plants you are trying to protect!

What's better is to plant very dense coniferous hedges such as Leylandii and Thuja Plicata. These have a similar effect as walls without causing any damage

Soil type

Soil is far from dull stuff. It is made up of humus (organic matter) and three different types of particle: clay, silt and sand. It provides a plant with an anchor for its roots, its water and its nutrients.

Did you know?

When you look at a border, all you see is 'topsoil'. Dig down 30cm to 60cm (1ft to 2ft) and things change. You’ll see a clear boundary between the topsoil and ‘subsoil??mucky stuff that plants won’t grow in. In some new gardens, especially on estates built on heavy soils, that clay subsoil from footings etc, has been spread over the natural topsoil and then covered with a few inches of indifferent topsoil and then turfed.

It’s worth checking because if the topsoil layer is only a few centimetres thick, subsoil can cause problems:

If it's clay - water logging in winter

If it's sandy or chalky - dehydration in summer

But don’t despair, reach for the ‘old faithful?-(well-rotted) bulky organic manure - and you can improve things greatly.

There are six main soil types:

Clay

Feels lumpy and sticky when very wet
Rock-hard when dry
Clay drains poorly
Few air spaces
Warms slowly in spring
Heavy to cultivate
If drainage is improved, plants grow well as it holds more nutrients than many other soils

Sandy

Free-draining soil
Gritty to the touch
Warms up quickly in spring
Easy to cultivate
Dries out rapidly
May lack nutrients, which are easily washed through the soil in wet weather (often called a "hungry" soil.)

Silty

Smooth and soapy to the touch
Well-drained soil
Retains moisture
Richer in nutrients (more fertile) than sandy soil
Easier to cultivate than clay
Heavier than sand
Soil structure is weak and easily compacted
A very good soil if well managed

Peaty

Contains a much higher proportion of organic matter (peat) because the soil’s acidic nature inhibits decomposition
But this means there are few nutrients
Dark in colour
Warms up quickly in spring
Highly water retentive and may require drainage if the water table is near the surface
Fantastic for plant growth if fertiliser is added


Chalky

Alkaline, with a pH of 7.5 or more
Usually stony
Free draining
Often overlays chalk or limestone bedrock
This means some minerals, such as manganese (Mg) and iron (Fe), become unavailable to plants, causing poor growth and yellowing of leaves

This can be remedied by adding fertilisers


Loamy
The perfect soil
Good structure
Drains well
Retains moisture
Full of nutrients
Easy to cultivate
Warms up quickly in spring and doesn’t dry out in summer

Consider yourself very lucky if you have this soil
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Soil improvement

Digging and incorporating well-rotted organic matter can significantly improve all soils. In the case of clay, use horticultural grit or sharp sand (as well as well-rotted organic manure).
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Find out how to test your soil with this step-by-step guide. Otherwise, continue reading...
Look
To figure out what soil your garden has, first of all you need to get outside.

Water an area of soil with a watering can. Surface water disappears quickly on sandy or gravelly soils, but remains longer on clay.


Touch
Take a handful of soil and gently squeeze.


If it feels slimy and sticky, and when you release the pressure the lump stays in shape, it is clay

Sandy or gravelly soils feel gritty, and the ‘lump?crumbles apart

Peaty soil feels spongy

Loam and silt feel smooth and retain their shape for longer that sandy soil, but not as rigidly as clay

Soil type test

Add half a handful of soil to a large glass jar

Fill with water

Stir well

Leave to settle for two hours

Then look

Sandy or gravelly soil
Most of the sandy particles sink and form a layer on the bottom, and the water looks fairly clear.

Clay or silty soil
The water is cloudy with a thin layer of particles on the bottom. The tiny clay particles take ages to settle.

Peaty soil
Lots of bits floating on the surface, the water is a bit cloudy and a small amount of sediment is sitting on the bottom.

Chalky soil
A layer of white, gritty fragments on the bottom and the water is a pale greyish colour.

Loamy soil
Fairly clear water with a layered sedimentation on the bottom - the finest particles on the top.

Which of the following best represents your garden soil?

Clay soil
Sandy soil
Silty soil
Peaty soil
Loamy soil
Chalky soil

Usted hecho’sue?±o T de cambiar a una casa sin echar una mirada al ?¡rea. ’S el mismo en un jard?­n. Antes usted puede crecer algo, usted necesita saber qu?tipo de las condiciones que usted tiene. Entonces usted puede escoger plantas que se acomoda a ellos. Realmente no hay la necesidad de malgastar dinero en plantas que odiar?su ambiente.

Usted’la necesidad de ll para saber qu?tipo de tierra que usted tiene, cu?¡nta luz hay y las condiciones predominantes de tiempo. ¿Es un sitio ventoso, un especialmente fr?­o uno, o es soleado y refugiado? Toda la informaci?³n que usted necesita triunfar est?aqu?

Valorar su complot
As?como usted, su jard?­n es extraordinario y tiene el car?¡cter. Es este car?¡cter, un conjunto distintivo de las condiciones que trabajan juntos, que determina lo que usted puede crecer exitosamente. ?Entiende su jard?­n?’el car?¡cter de s y usted’re bien en la manera a bonito un jardinero del blossoming. Eso’s lo que nosotros’ll es volver a hacer el luego pocas p?¡ginas. Nosotros’ll mira
la gama siguiente de condiciones y lo muestra para c?³mo descubrir lo que ellos est?¡n en su jard?­n:

La luz
La importancia de la luz

Ponga embotadamente, las plantas mueren sin la luz del sol. La luz del sol es el ‘motor?eso acciona el crecimiento - un proceso llam?la fotos?­ntesis.

En la tierra virgen (que es donde la mayor?­a de las plantas del jard?­n vienen de) los niveles ligeros var?­an. Es grietas peque?±as astutas, plantas diferentes evolucionaron para prosperar en niveles diferentes de la luz. Claramente la cantidad de la luz que su jard?­n obtiene tendr?un impacto grande en qu?plantas crece bien. ?

El aspecto

La cantidad general de la luz recibida depende del aspecto, la direcci?³n sus caras del jard?­n. Utilice una br?ºjula.

El norte frente a jardines obtiene lo menos luz y puede estar h?ºmedo

El sur frente a jardines obtiene las la mayor?­a de las luces

El este frente a jardines obtiene la ma?±ana la luz

El oeste frente a jardines obtiene la tarde y el anochecer la luz

La humedad

El agua de la necesidad de plantas as?como usted, agua de necesidad de plantas. Debe haber un suministro constante porque plantas est?¡n como mechas gigantescas. El agua es chupada de la tierra por ra?­ces, levant?el tallo y perdi?por las hojas.

Su el contenido de la humedad de tierra?La cantidad de agua en la tierra es influida por:

El Tiempo anual local de la lluvia de a?±o el Aspecto de tipo Tierra

El nivel fre?¡tico - el punto en la tierra en que rega los desaguaderos lejos

Sombreado o el norte frente a rincones a menudo tiene tierra h?ºmeda

Mucha de la lluvia tiende a venir del sur al oeste. Los aspectos Pascuas, protegido por la casa, tiende a ser seco.

El sur frente a camas, o ?©sos en el ‘sombra de lluvia?de una pared, tiende a ser seco. Las plantas han evolucionado para aprovecharse de las variaciones en el contenido de la humedad. As?que en tierra mojada usted puede plantar un jard?­n de ci?©naga y crecer plantas amorosas de humedad; en liberta tierra que desagua usted puede crear un jard?­n de grava repleto de la especie tolerante de la sequ?­a.

¿Si su tierra es demasiado ‘el extremo? Mejore tierra h?ºmeda cavando en mucho abono org?¡nico volumnoso. Para secar lo, instale un sistema de desag?¼e. En la tierra libre que desagua, mejora la retenci?³n de la humedad cavando en el abono org?¡nico volumnoso (el material maravilloso!) o instala un sistema de la irrigaci?³n. Sea paciente aunque, cuando esto no acontecer?de noche.

Pruebe su jard?­n?’desag?¼e de s

Cave varios hoyos aproximadamente 30 cm (1 p) profundo al azar puntos a trav?©s del jard?­n
Llene con agua

La hoja para desaguar lejos naturalmente

Si toma m?¡s de 24 horas de desaparecer, el desag?¼e es Cheque pobre la altura de su nivel fre?¡tico

Cave un 60 cm (2 p) hoyo profundo en el punto m?¡s bajo

M?­relo para una pareja de d?­as en el invierno (cuando el nivel fre?¡tico est?en su m?¡s alto) Esto lo mostrar?en lo que se?±ala ra?­ces de planta estar?¡n a parar agua ?importante desde que muchas especie tolerante de la
sequ?­a muere si ellos tienen ‘moj?pies.

La temperatura

Las plantas del jard?­n vienen de todo el mundo y est?¡n acostumbrado a temperaturas diferentes a ?©sos en su jard?­n. ¡Instruido cu?¡n fr?­o su jard?­n obtiene lo ayudar?a evitar plantas que congelan a la muerte! Una gu?­a breve de la temperatura

Breta?±a meridional es generalmente mas caliente que el norte

La Corriente del golfo hace el warmer occidental que el este

Como altitud aumenta, la disminuci?³n de temperaturas. El clima y el tiempo

El clima afecta la temporada y la comprensi?³n de crecientes el clima en su jard?­n lo ayudar?al jard?­n m?¡s exitosamente

El clima es tambi?©n acerca de altitud. Para cada 300m (328 yd) su jard?­n est?sobre el nivel del mar, el golpe acerca de dos semanas lejos la temporada creciente porque el m?¡s alto usted es, el m?¡s fr?­o es. El clima es tambi?©n acerca de altitud. Para cada 300m (328 yd) su jard?­n est?sobre el nivel del mar, el golpe acerca de dos semanas lejos la temporada creciente porque el m?¡s alto usted es, el m?¡s fr?­o es.

El viento

El prevalecer enrolla La direcci?³n de que el viento la mayor?­a de los a menudo golpes influir?¡n su jard?­n?’el car?¡cter de s, y lo que usted puede crecer. Cuando una regla general, septentrional y easterlies tienen fr?­o, mientras en el oeste son warmer pero m?¡s fuerte.

En un d?­a caliente, un c?©firo apacible puede ser agradable, pero el viento puede ser tambi?©n una amenaza.

El viento preocupa

¡A largo plazo, los vientos ‘deforma?- piensa en ?¡rboles de lado crecientes en ?¡reas costeras!

Los ventarrones repentinos chasqu?©an ramas y tallos

Un viento fr?­o inesperado puede ‘quemadura?el crecimiento nuevo tierno, partidalo crujiente marr?³n Los vientos a?ºn apacibles pueden achicharrar plantas que viven naturalmente en el bosque refugiado, por ejemplo, arces japoneses.

Da?±e la limitaci?³n

Agradecidamente, el da?±o de viento que previene es f?¡cil.

Las ca?±as del uso para sostener plantas

Rodee el jard?­n con un ‘shelterbelt??un ‘abre?la cerca o el cercado

En ubicaciones expuestas, los cercados des hoja perenne proporcionan m?¡s refugio en el invierno, mientras la especie caduca tal como haya y el carpe son buenos en que ellos tienen en sus hojas muertas hasta el primavera.

En ?¡reas costeras, la planta la especie tolerante de sal tal como tamarisco

Menos atractivo, pero ‘instante? son las tiras de tela de caucho estiradas entre astas ?un espacio excelente de la parada hasta que los cercados crezcan suficientemente alto Estos shelterbelts todo trabajo porque ellos son porosos ?ellos aflojan enrolla hacia abajo pero lo permite por. ¿Puede estar pregunt?¡ndose usted, "por qu?no erige una cerca de pared ni s?³lido en lugar?" ¡Yo lo dir?por qu?- porque ellos fuerzan el termina y sobre, v?³rtices de causa que da?±an las plantas que usted tratan de proteger! Qu?es mejor deber?plantar los cercados con?­feros muy densos tal como Leylandii y Thuja Plicata. Estos tienen un efecto semejante como paredes sin causar cualquier
da?±o De tipo tierra

La tierra es distante del material l?¡nguido. Es compuesto del mantillo (la materia org?¡nica) y tres tipos diferentes de la part?­cula: arcilla, el cieno y la arena. Proporciona una planta con un ancla para sus ra?­ces, su agua y sus alimentos nutritivos.

¿Supo usted?

Cu?¡ndo usted mira una frontera, todo usted ve es la "capa superficial del suelo". Cave hacia abajo 30 cm a 60 cm (1 p a 2 p) y el cambio de cosas. Usted’ll ve una frontera clara entre la capa superficial del suelo y ‘subsuelo??el material asqueroso que plantas ganaron’T crece en. En algunos jardines nuevos, especialmente en propiedades construy?en tierras pesadas, ese subsuelo de arcilla de pies etc, ha sido esparcido sobre la capa superficial del suelo natural y entonces cubri?con unos pocas pulgadas de la capa superficial del suelo indiferente y entonces turfed.

’Verificar de valor de s porque si la capa de la capa superficial del suelo es s?³lo unos pocos cent?­metros gruesos, el subsuelo puede causar los problemas:

Si es arcilla - agua apuntando en el invierno

Si est?cubierto de arena o yesoso - la deshidrataci?³n en el verano Pero en Don’la desesperaci?³n T, el alcance para el ‘viejo fiel?-(well-rotted) abono org?¡nico volumnoso - y usted
puede mejorar las cosas mucho.

Hay seis principal de tipo tierra:

La arcilla

Se siente Arcilla que grumoso y pegajoso cuando muy mojado Dura como una piedra cuando seca desagua mal Pocos Entibiar a?©reos de
espacios lentamente en primavera Pesado para cultivar Si desag?¼e se mejora, las plantas crecen bien como tiene m?¡s alimentos nutritivos
que muchas otras tierras

Cubierto de arena

La tierra libre que desagua Arenoso a los se calienta del toque r?¡pidamente en primavera F?¡cil de cultivar Seca puede carecer r?¡pidamente alimentos nutritivos, que
se lavan f?¡cilmente por la tierra en el tiempo mojado (a menudo llam?una tierra "hambrienta".)

Silty

Liso y cubierto de jab?³n al toque tierra Bien desaguada Retiene la humedad m?¡s Rica en alimentos nutritivos
(m?¡s f?©rtil) que tierra cubierta de arena m?¡s F?¡cil de cultivar que arcilla m?¡s Pesada que la estructura de
Tierra de arena es d?©bil y comprimi?f?¡cilmente UNA tierra muy buena si el pozo manej?

Peaty

Contiene una proporci?³n mucho m?¡s m?¡s alta de la materia org?¡nica (turba) porque la tierra’s la naturaleza ?¡cida inhibe la decomposici?³n Pero esto significa hay pocas
Oscuridad de alimentos nutritivos se calienta en colores r?¡pidamente en primavera regan Sumamente retentivo y pueden requerir desag?¼e si el nivel fre?¡tico est?cerca del
de superficie Fant?¡stico para el crecimiento de planta si fertilizante se agrega

Yesoso

Alcalino, con un pH de 7.5 o m?¡s desaguar Libre Generalmente pedregoso a menudo cubiertas cret?¡cea o roca de fondo de piedra caliza Esto significa algunos minerales, tal como el manganeso (mg) y el hierro
(fe), llegan a ser indisponible a plantas, causar el crecimiento y yellowing pobres de hojas

Esto puede ser remedied agregando fertilizantes
Loamy
Los Desaguaderos perfectos de la estructura del Bien de la tierra Retienen bien la humedad Repleta de
alimentos nutritivos F?¡ciles de cultivar se calienta r?¡pidamente en primavera y doesn’T seca en el verano

Consid?©rese muy afortunado si usted tiene esta tierra ?
La mejora de la tierra

Cavar e incorporar la materia org?¡nica bien pudrida puede mejorar apreciablemente todas tierras. En el caso de arcilla, utilice granos de arena hort?­colas o arena aguda (as?como abono org?¡nico bien pudrido). ?Averigua para c?³mo probar su tierra con este paso por paso gu?­a. De otro
modo, sigue leyendo.. La mirada para resolver qu?tierra que su jard?­n tiene, ante todo usted necesita obtener afuera.

Rege un ?¡rea de tierra con una regadera. El agua de superficie desaparece r?¡pidamente en tierras cubiertas de arena o gravas, pero permanece m?¡s largo en la arcilla.

El toque Toma una pu?±ado de tierra y suavemente estruj?³n.

Si se siente babosa y pegajoso, y cuando usted libera la presi?³n el amontona permanece en la forma, es arcilla

Las tierras cubiertas de arena o gravas se sienten arenoso, y el ‘amontona?desmenuza aparte

La tierra de Peaty se siente esponjoso

Marga y cieno se sienten suaviza y retiene su forma para m?¡s larga esa tierra cubierta de arena, pero no tan r?­gidamente como arcilla
La prueba de tipo tierra

Agregue la mitad una pu?±ado de tierra a un frasco grande del vidrio

Llene con agua

Bata bien

La hoja para asentarse para dos horas

Entonces parezca Cubierto de arena o tierra grava la mayor parte del fregadero cubierto de arena de part?­culas y forme una capa en el fondo, y en las
miradas de agua limpian bastante.

La tierra de la arcilla o silty que El agua est?nublada con una capa delgada de part?­culas en el fondo. Las part?­culas diminutas de la arcilla toman las edades para
asentarse.

La tierra de Peaty Muchos pedacitos que flotan en la superficie, el agua es un pedacito nublada y una cantidad peque?±a de sedimento se sientan en el fondo.

La tierra yesosa UNA capa de fragmentos blancos y arenosos en el fondo y el agua es un color gris?¡ceo p?¡lido.

La tierra de Loamy limpia Bastante agua con un encam?sedimentaci?³n en el fondo - las part?­culas m?¡s finas en la cima.

¿Cu?¡l del siguiente representa mejor su tierra del jard?­n?

La tierra de la arcilla Silty Cubierto de arena de tierra de tierra de tierra de tierra Peaty Loamy tierra
Yesosa

Plant Propagation/Transplanting Guida/Guia queTrasplanta

Information gathered from the Cooperative extention at University of Kentucky publications

Even though the article speaks of plants in Kentucky, this information is useful to other areas, also. Check with your local cooperative extention. Ed.

Thank you to colleagues, friends and instructors from UK.
REVISED:
Leonard P. Stoltz, Mary L. Witt, and Robert Geneve

Many ornamental plants in Kentucky can be propagated by home gardeners. Plant propagation can be a source of enjoyment and a way to increase the number of desirable plants you have.
Plants are propagated by asexual or sexual means. Sexual propagation involves starting plants from seed, while asexual propagation is the multiplication of plants from vegetative plant parts like shoots, roots and leaves or from specialized organs like bulbs and corms. Budding and grafting are also methods of vegetative propagation.

Table 1 (at the end of this publication) presents methods for propagating some common Kentucky landscape plants.

Asexual Propagation
Reasons to Use Asexual Propagation
The most important reason for asexual propagation is to reproduce plants with the same characteristics as the parent plant. Asexual propagation is the only practical means of propagation when:

No seed are produced (French tarragon, peppermint, seedless grapes).
Seed are difficult to germinate (Viburnum, honeysuckle).
•Seed of plants often produce variations that are not desirable (roses, most fruit trees).
•You want to combine two or more plants to get the specific benefit of a particular rootstock. For example, you can achieve size control using dwarfing rootstocks as is done for apples. Or you can get pest resistant rootstock, as in grafting European grapes on American grape rootstocks to avoid damage from Phylloxera, a grape root aphid.

A group of plants originating from a single plant and reproduced by vegetative means is called a clone. For example, the Burkwood viburnum is a hybrid which originally came from seed but is propagated by asexual methods to maintain its unique characteristics. Methods of asexual propagation include cuttings, layering and division.

Cuttings
The most common way to propagate plants asexually is from cuttings. You can make cuttings from stems, roots, leaves or combinations of plant parts like stems with leaves. Take cuttings from healthy plants that grew well during the current or previous growing season. Many factors affect the success of rooting: the plant part's age, season, location of the tissue on the plant, and the plant's nutritional level and general vitality.

Stem Cuttings
Types
Stem cuttings are taken at different stages of growth and may consist of a plant's growing tip (terminal section) or subterminal stem sections and are referred to as tip cuttings or stem cuttings respectively. Leaf-bud cuttings are a modified type of stem cutting.
Leaf-bud cuttings include the leaf blade, petiole, and a 1/2 to 1 inch segment of stem. Axillary buds located at the union of the petiole and stem produce new shoots under warm, humid conditions. This method is often used for plants with long internodes like pothos. Every node on the stem can be a cutting. With opposite-leaved plants, like hydrangea, the stem is divided in two to produce two cuttings.
Some plants root better from softwood cuttings, while others are propagated from semi-hardwood orhardwood cuttings. Softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings are from current season's growth, and hardwood cuttings are from the previous season's growth.
Softwood cuttings are generally taken from plants in spring or early summer during a growth flush when tissue is relatively soft and succulent. Stems of softwood cuttings will usually "snap" like green beans when broken.
Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken just after a growth flush has matured. Most plants root best as semi-hardwood cuttings. By using semi-hardwood stems that are not quite mature, you can reach a balance between young tissue with abundant meristem activity (dividing cells) and old tissue with abundant carbohydrate food reserves.
Hardwood cuttings are taken during the dormant season when wood is mature and hardened. Some hardwood cuttings are taken from wood older than a year. Junipers, hemlocks, false cypress, hollies, firs, pines and spruces can be successfully propagated from hardwood cuttings.

Techniques
•Remove stem cuttings using a clean, sharp knife or pruner. Cuttings 4 to 6 inches long are appropriate for most plants.
•Remove leaves from the bottom 1 to 2 inches of the cuttings. The base of the cutting may be lightly or heavily wounded. Wounding exposes more internal tissue for contact with the rooting compound thereby increasing rooting.
•Dust cuttings with rooting hormone and stick them upright in a propagation medium.
•Insert them just deep enough into the propagation medium to hold them upright (usually 1-2 inches). Insert at least one node into the medium. Roots develop faster at nodal areas with active meristematic cells. If cuttings are stuck too deeply into a shallow medium, the base may rot.
•Open the medium with a knife slit or use a pencil as a dibble to help insert the cuttings without rubbing off most of the rooting powder.
•After you insert cuttings, water them to firm the medium around them.
•Stem cuttings have rooted when they cannot be dislodged from the rooting medium without pulling out a mass of the rooting medium at the same time. The rooting period varies from 2 to 16 weeks, depending on plant species and environment. Once well-rooted, cuttings can be potted singly into containers and grown to larger size or put directly into the landscape after a period of hardening (see "hardening" below).

Leaf Cuttings
Leaf cuttings may consist of only the leaf blade or the leaf blade and petiole. Leaf cuttings are successful for only a few specialized plants. Rex begonias, bryophyllum and jade plants are commonly propagated by laying the leaf flat on the medium. Rex begonia should be wounded by cutting the main veins on the underside of the leaf before placing the leaf surface flat and in firm contact with the propagation medium. Sometimes it is helpful to pin these leaves to the moist medium with small, wire hairpins, bent paper clips or toothpicks.
African violet is propagated using a single leaf with part of the leaf petiole attached. Shorten the petiole to 1 inch long. Stick the leaf petiole upright in the propagation medium just like the stem of a cutting. Roots and shoots form at the petiole's base.
The swordlike leaves of Sansevieria can be cut into sections. When subterminal sections of leaves are used, make sure the bottom (basal) end of the cutting is inserted into the propagation medium. Roots and new shoots will start at the base of the leaf or at points where veins were cut.

Rooting Medium
A mixture of one volume of peat moss and 3 volumes of coarse perlite is a good rooting medium for most plants, but combinations of other materials like perlite and vermiculite, or peat moss and sand are also satisfactory. The medium should drain freely and be free of disease organisms and weed seed.
If you apply root-promoting chemicals to the basal 1/2 inch of cuttings before sticking them into the medium, you can enhance rooting of some plants. These chemicals are primarily composed of auxins: most commonly IBA (indolebutyric acid) and/or NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid) are used. Commercially prepared talc formulations in various concentrations, suited for easy-, moderate- or difficult-to-root plants are available at most garden centers. Some talc formulations of auxins also contain a fungicide to help prevent disease during rooting. Be careful: if you apply the talc powder too heavily, it may burn off the base of some cuttings.

Where to Propagate Your Plants
(Small Scale Propagation Units)
To propagate effectively you need to provide a good environment for your cuttings.

Requirements
Maintaining high humidity around a cutting is a major requirement for success. You need high humidity because when you make a cutting you sever the plant's water and nutrient conducting tissues. Therefore, cuttings cannot take up enough water from the propagating medium to replace that lost through their leaves. Keep the relative humidity near 100% to minimize water loss from your cuttings. Commercial propagators use an intermittent mist system controlled by time clocks to keep the cuttings moist and reduce transpiration.
Also, keep the temperature cool, because at higher temperatures water loss from the plant is greater. Temperatures of 60-80?F stimulate optimum growth and development of most plants.

Methods
You can provide a warm, humid environment for rooting your cuttings by several methods.
Plastic Bags - One of the simplest propagation units for small numbers of cuttings. All you need is a flower pot, growing medium, plastic bag and a rubber band. Two wire hoops, wooden labels or plastic straws can help support the plastic bag but are not necessary.
Cold Frame - Many people root cuttings under glass jars outside in a cold frame. A cold frame is constructed of a wooden frame and covered with plastic film or old wooden windows; it may be any convenient size. Hinged lids permit access to cuttings and can be gradually propped open after cuttings have rooted. Doing so acclimates them to the outside environment.
Cold Frame With Heating Cables (hotbed)- For a more consistent propagating structure outside, heating cables may be added. Heating cables provide heat to the base of the cutting. Plants usually grow faster at warmer temperatures. Bottom heat encourages growth of roots but allows water loss from leaves to remain low.

Location
Location of the propagation unit is critical; it should be in diffused light, never in direct sun. Temperature in these closed units will become too high if placed in full sun, causing the cuttings to die. Indoors put the units near a north window or to the side of other windows where they will receive light but not direct sunlight. Maintain temperatures of 60-80?F. Outdoors the units may be placed on the north side of the house or under a tree. Although these units will restrict water loss, you still must routinely examine the moisture level. Add moisture only if the propagation medium begins to dry out.

Hardening
Rooted cuttings must be adapted to withstand environmental stress after rooting has occurred. This process is called hardening. Cuttings that have been rooted in a humid environment with moderate temperatures often die if they are put directly in a dry, hot environment in full sun. They need a transitional period to let new leaves and shoots adjust gradually to environmental change.
•Decrease humidity by increasing ventilation in an enclosed rooting structure.
•After a gradual decrease in humidity, increase the light intensity gradually by moving plants into areas receiving increasing amounts of direct sunlight.

Layering
Layering is a method of propagation in which new plants are completely formed while attached to the parent plant. The new plant receives nutrients and water from the parent plant until roots develop. This method is an excellent way to produce a small number of plants for the home landscape, or to propagate plants that are difficult to increase by other methods.
Layering outdoors is best done during spring and summer months, although it can be done during any season. Spring and summer layers are usually rooted and ready for transplanting in fall or early next spring. If you plant them in fall, mulch heavily in early winter to keep the plant from heaving out of the soil.
For layering, choose healthy, mature branches that are growing vigorously and have been exposed to light, since these usually have more food reserves and therefore root faster. Branches from pencil size to about an inch in diameter are best.

Types
Various types of layering are air, simple, tip, trench, mound and serpentine. Air, tip, and simple layering are the most popular methods and the only ones discussed here.
Air layering is used on plants with stiff or large stems that cannot be bent to the soil or plants that do not readily produce shoots at their base. Air layering works for propagating rubber trees, figs, crotons, Chinese hibiscus, holly, sweet bay, lilac and magnolias.

To air layer:
•Remove leaves and twigs on the selected limb for 3 to 4 inches above and below the point where the air layer is to be made (usually 8 to 15 inches below the tip of the branch).
•Wound the branch just beneath a node to induce rooting.
•One method: remove a 1/2 to 1 inch ring of bark and, with a knife, scrape clean the wood underneath. Doing so ensures complete removal of the cambium layer - a layer of cells between the bark and wood. If this layer is not removed completely, new bark may develop instead of roots.
•A better method: make a long slanting cut upward about 1/4 to half-way through the twig. Keep the incision open by inserting a bit of sphagnum moss or a toothpick to prevent the cut from healing over. A thin bamboo stake or stick tied to the stem above and below the wound will keep the stem from breaking at the wound.
•You can apply a rooting hormone around the wound on hard-to-root plants to hasten rooting, but hormones are unnecessary for most air layering.
•Bind the wounded area with a handful of moist sphagnum moss. Squeeze excess moisture from the moss before placing it completely around the stem at the wound. Tie the moss firmly in place with twine.
•Cover the moss with plastic film or heavy duty aluminum foil, crimped tightly to the stem above and below the ball to reduce water loss.
•Check every 7 to 10 days for moisture.

When roots have developed in the sphagnum ball (1 month to a year later), remove and pot the layered branch. Pot layers in containers and harden them much like rooted cuttings discussed previously.
Simple layering is a proven means of propagating climbing roses, forsythia, grapes, wisteria and pyracantha. Most plants with a trailing or viny growth habit can be propagated this way. Choose a low branch and injure the bark (as described for air layering) about 1/2 to 1 inch along the stem and 8 to 15 inches back from the tip. Anchor the injured area 2 to 3 inches beneath the soil. Do not let the soil dry out.
Spring is the best time to simple layer, since the injured portion develops roots during summer. Spring layers can be cut from the parent and planted in early fall or left until the following spring.
Tip layering is used on most brambles (blackberries, black and purple raspberries, dewberries). In mid to late summer the cane tips arch over and leaves at the end become small and curled. This is the proper time to tip layer them. Cut a slit in the soil 2 to 4 inch deep using a trowel or tile spade. Insert the tip of the cane about 2 inches into the soil and close the soil around the tip by stepping on the soil. The tip will root and form a new plant by fall. New plants can be cut from the parent, dug and replanted in fall or early the next spring.

Division
Plants with a multi-stemmed or clumping growth habit, offshoots or fleshy underground storage structures like bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, corms and tuberous roots and stems can be propagated by division. Such plants include daylilies, bulbous plants, bearded iris, peonies and liriope. Division involves cutting large clumps into smaller sections, making sure that each clump has enough stems, leaves, roots, and buds to survive transplanting. Every 2 or 3 years plants can be dug, divided and replanted into a larger area. Some plants can be pulled apart, but most must be cut. Transplant separated clumps at the same depth they were growing originally. Division of iris and daylilies is usually done in mid to late August while most other plants are divided during the plant's dormant period (late fall, early spring).

Sexual Propagation
Seed propagation is often the least expensive and easiest way to produce large numbers of plants. Many plants produce variations when seed-propagated and seed of many plants in the temperate zone have special conditions that must be met before germination will occur.
In most cases the seed require a period of moist-chilling. Since most home gardeners need only a few new woody plants, the easiest way to satisfy the chilling requirement is to sow seed in a protected area in the garden as soon as they are ripe. Usually they germinate the following spring.
Some woody plant seed have a hard seed coat that either mechanically restricts germination or inhibits water uptake that prevents germination. Easy ways to overcome this problem are (1) file or grind a small notch in the seed coat, (2) rub seeds on fine sand paper or (3) put seeds on a concrete floor and rub them against the floor using a brick or a board. This process is called "scarification." When a certain seed needs such treatment for germination, Table 1 so indicates. A few woody plants combine a hard seed coat and the need for moist-chilling.
Seeds of annual bedding plants, vegetables and some woody plants need only the proper environmental conditions of temperature, moisture, oxygen and sometimes light for germination. Germination of flower and vegetable seeds is discussed in UK Cooperative Extension publication, HO-56, Starting Plants from Seed at Home.

Seed Cleaning and Storage
Remove the fleshy coat of seed like dogwood, southern magnolia, Cotoneaster and Euonymus before planting. For small numbers of such seed, rub them against a wire screen and wash to remove the pulp, or put the seed in a container of water and let them ferment a few days to soften the fleshy coat before rubbing them against a wire screen. You can separate the pulp and seed by putting them in a container of water; the pulp and unfilled seed float while the good seed sink to the bottom. After seeds are cleaned, they can be dried and stored or planted immediately, depending upon the seed. Table 1 gives directions for specific seed.
Optimum storage temperature and seed moisture content vary with species, but generally seed should be stored at 40?F and in an environment with 30-35% relative humidity. Household refrigerators usually maintain temperatures suitable for seed storage. Seed can be stored in the refrigerator dry in tightly closed plastic bags or glass jars.
Purchased seed packets of most garden annuals, perennials and vegetable seeds often contain more seed than needed for 1 year's planting. You can usually store these seed with good results for 1 or sometimes 2 years. To save such seed from one year to the next, put them in a tightly closed glass jar, and store in the refrigerator. Germination is reduced as the seed age and the amount of reduction varies with the kind of seed. Experience will tell you which seed to save and for how long.

Seed Germination of Woody Plants
Conditions
The simplest way for homeowners to satisfy dormancy requirements of seed of many woody plants is to sow them in a protected area as soon as they are ripe. Germination is often better if seed are planted immediately after harvesting (and cleaning if needed) without being allowed to dry.
If you want to sow woody plant seed in the fall for germination the following spring, a section of the vegetable garden is a good site. The soil should be fertile and well-drained. Prepare the area ahead of time by tilling. Add organic matter such as compost or peat moss if the soil has a high clay content.

Planting
A rule of thumb is to cover the seed with soil 1 to 2 times the seed's narrowest diameter.
Moisture is a critical requirement for germination. Once seed are planted outdoors, keep them moist. Adding 1 inch of mulch over the planting area helps keep soil moisture uniform and available. A deeper mulch can be applied in fall but most or all should be removed in early spring before seed germination begins (usually mid-March to mid-April). A deep mulch helps control weeds.
Don't plant seed so close together that seedlings are crowded, resulting in poor growth with weak, spindly stems.
You can plant seed in rows or broadcast it over a bed area. Since the homeowner usually requires only a few plants of a kind, rows are preferred. Row planting makes weeding easier, and with proper labeling helps you identify and keep different seedlings separated.
To help provide good drainage, you may raise the area selected 3 to 4 inches above the normal soil level. For a single seed row soil should be 4-6 inches wide at the top. If a large number of different kinds of seed are to be sown, prepare a bed system 3 ft wide and any desired length.
You can then sow individual varieties of seed in rows across the bed. Whenever seed are sown, identify them with a label. Write labels only with pencil or weather-proof marking pens. If you are going to leave labels outdoors through a winter, stick them at least 3 inches into the soil.
For small numbers of seed or where no garden area is available, seed may be sown in a clay pot. The pot is then plunged into soil up to its rim and watered both to supply moisture to the seed and to establish intimate contact between the outside of the pot and the surrounding soil. Finally a mulch 4 to 6 inches deep is placed over the area. In late winter (Mar.-April) the pot is dug up and moved to a location where moisture can be maintained and a temperature of 45 to 75?F provided.

Transplanting Seedlings
If seedlings are crowded after germination in the spring, they may be transplanted with wider spacings or thinned to allow more space per plant. Most seedlings should remain in their original location for at least one full growing season. In some instances, plants should be left in place for 2 or more growing seasons before being moved.
Transplanting young plants is best done in early spring after the ground has thawed but before plants begin growth. Transplanting can be done in the fall after plants have gone dormant but the plant may be pushed out of the soil by freezing and thawing action. If plants must be moved in the fall, heavy mulching (4-6 inches deep) prevents frost heaving.

Table 1. Methods of Propagating Common Landscape Plants Botanical (Common Name): Propagation Method
Abelia grandiflora (Glossy Abelia): Semi-hardwood tip cuttings, June-Sept.
Acer (Maples): Collect seed when mature, sow immediately in protected area or flats.
Actinidia: Softwood cuttings, June-July. Semi-hardwood cuttings, July-Sept.
Aesculus (Buckeyes): Collect seed when mature and sow in protected area.
Bamboo: Division: late winter, early spring.
Berberis (Barberry): Semi-hardwood tip cuttings, June-Sept. or seed sown outdoors in fall.
Betula (Birch): Seed: some ripen in spring, most in fall. Sow as soon as mature.
Buddleia (Butterfly Bush): Cuttings, June-Sept.
Buxus (Boxwood): Tip cuttings, June-Sept.
Callicarpa (Beautyberry): Tip cuttings, June-Sept. or seed sown as soon as the berries are ripe.
Cephalanthus (Buttonbush): Tip cuttings, June-Aug.
Cercis (Redbud): Scarify seed coat and sow seed in fall outdoors. Spring germination.
Chaenomoles (Flowering Quince): Semi-hardwood cuttings, June-July.
Cornus (Dogwood): Softwood cuttings, June-Aug. difficult. Seed: clean, sow outdoors in fall. Spring germination.
Cotoneaster: Cuttings, June-Aug.
Crataegus (Hawthorn): Seed: collect in summer, clean, sow immediately.
Daphne: Cuttings, June-Aug.
Deutzia: Softwood cuttings, June-July.
Euonymus: Cuttings, June-July.
Fagus (Beech): Seed: collect when mature, sow immediately.
Forsythia: Cuttings, June-Sept.
Fraxinus (Ash): Collect seed as soon as mature, sow outdoors. Spring germination.
Gleditsia (Honeylocust): Collect seed, hold till mid-April, scarify and sow immediately.
Hamamelis (Witch Hazel): Seed: collect capsules before opening, place in closed paper bag. Sow soon after capsules burst.
Hedera helix (English Ivy): Cuttings, June-Oct.
Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon): Seed sown outdoors in fall.
Hydrangea: Tip cuttings, June-July.
Hypericum (St. Johnswort): Tip cuttings, June-Oct.
Ilex (Holly): Terminal firm semi-hardwood cuttings, July-Nov., wound.
Juniper: Most prostrate types root readily from tip cuttings, Nov.-April. Upright types almost impossible.
Kerria japonica: Cuttings, June-October.
Koelreuteria (Goldenrain Tree): Seed: scarify then sow in fall.
Ligustrum (Privet): Semi-hardwood cuttings, June-Sept.
Liquidambar (Sweetgum): Seed: collect fruit when yellow to brown, place in closed paper bag. Sow seed soon after fruit opens.
Liriodendron (Tulip Tree): Seed: sow immediately in fall.
Lonicera (Honeysuckle): Softwood cuttings, June-August.
Magnolia: Time and success variable with species. Softwood cuttings, June-July. Seed: clean, sow outdoors in fall. Keep seed moist until planted.
Mahonia (Grape holly): Seed: collect, clean, sow immediately.
Malus (Crabapple): Results vary with variety. Softwood cuttings in May-June.
Nyssa sylvatica (Black tupelo): Clean seed, sow outdoors in fall. Spring germination.
Pachysandra: Tip cuttings, July-Sept.
Philadelphus (Mockorange): Softwood cuttings, June-July.
Pyracantha (Firethorn): Cuttings, June-Aug.
Pyrus calleryana (Callery Pear): Seed: clean, sow immediately
Quercus (Oaks): Sow acorns outdoors as soon as they drop.
Rhamnus (Buckthorn): Cuttings, June-July.
Rhododendron: Tip cuttings, June-July.
Robinia (Black Locust): Seed: collect, clean, store until April, scarify, sow.
Rosa (Roses): Soft to semi-hardwood leafy cuttings. June-August.
Sophora japonica (Japanese Pagoda Tree): Seed: collect, clean, store until April, scarify, sow.
Spiraea: Softwood cuttings, May-July.
Syringa (Lilac): Cuttings, May-August.
Taxus (Yew): Cuttings taken in Sept.-Dec. Stick in cold frame. Rooting will occur following spring.
Tilia (Linden): Seed: pick before seed coat turns brown, sow immediately.
Ulmus (Elm): Seed: some ripen in spring others in fall. Collect and sow immediately.
Viburnum: Tip cuttings, May-July.


Appendix: Cold Frame Construction

Bill of Materials 27 board feet: 1" thick pressure treated lumber (see Note 1)
8 linear feet: 2" x 2" pressure treated lumber for anchors
24 Linear feet: 1" x 2" or 1 " x 3" furring strips for sash frame
21 linear feet: wood strips 1/4" thick (see Note 2)
4: 3" x 3" corner angles
2: 3" x 3" tee angles
3: 3/4" x 3" hinges
4' x 6' sheet: 6 mil. polyethylene plastic
30: 1 1/2" x No. 10 flat head wood screws
3 oz.: 3/4" wire nails
1 qt.: white epoxy paint


Construction Notes
1. Use pressure treated lumber for all wood that will be in contact with the soil or use untreated lumber and apply 2 coats of epoxy paint to all surfaces before assembly.
2. The poly cover is stapled to the sash frame and 1/4"thick wood strips are nailed over the staples to prevent wind from blowing the poly cover off. The wood strips can be cut from 1" or 2" thick lumber.
3. For use during freezing weather the inside of the unit may be lined with 1" Styrofoam insulation board and a blanket or other insulation placed over the top on cold nights.

Cold Frame Construction


Transplanting guide for all gardeners

Your transplanting success will increase if you'll observe a few simple rules that take into account the plants' needs. Basic as they are, simple as they may seem, they are still the fundamentals around which successful transplanting is built, so follow them and give the plants the best of care following their transfer.

These are the general rules. Those which have been starred, refer to the drawings.

1. Cool, cloudy, humid weather is best, although you can transplant at almost any time if you follow the rules carefully and/or use one of the new plastic sprays which conserve moisture, preventing its loss through the leaves.

2. Prepare the new planting hole first. Make it wider and deeper than you think necessary, removing stones and debris as you dig. Either mix in peatmoss and plant food to enrich any subsoil you dig up or replace it with good rich topsoil or compost. Then the hole will be ready and you won't have to make your plants wait, allowing the roots to dry, while you prepare the fill soil. Water the hole well; let it soak in.

3. A day or so ahead, soak around plants to be moved so that you can dig deeply, get more roots and keep a soil ball around undisturbed roots if possible. In any case . . .

4. Keep roots moist during transplanting. Should roots be bare (in dividing perennials this is inevitable) keep them covered with a wet sack or soak in a pail of water until used. Heel them in if more than a few hours must elapse before setting in place.

5. Try root ball for size in new hole to be sure the roots will spread well without touching the edge of the hole or without bending or tilting up at the edges. Dig the hole at least 1 foot larger than the spread of the roots for trees and 6 inches larger for shrubs.

6. Place good soil under root ball so that the plant will be the same depth it grew as before. (You will be able to see soil mark on trunk or stems.) Fill in around root ball, watering in and rocking plant gently to settle and bind soil in contact with roots, or work the soil in around the roots with your hands.

7. Transplanting fertilizer solutions aid recovery, giving the "booster" necessary to overcome transplanting shock. Don't be alarmed if plants are set back a bit for a time.

8. Prune deciduous trees and shrubs (not broad-leaved or needle evergreens) to compensate for loss of roots, reducing twigs about 1/3, keeping future shape of plant in mind. Don't cut leaders (topmost vertical twig) on trees or the shape will be spoiled.

9. Shade small plants from sun and protect from drying winds. Wrap trunks of trees with burlap or tough paper made for this purpose to prevent sunscald the first year. Plastic sprays now permit moving plants which are in full leaf.

10. Stake trees to avoid wind damage through tipping which breaks small new roots. A small tree whose trunk at waist height is under 3 inches in diameter needs only one stake. Larger trees require two stakes or, better, three or four guy wires. Set stakes before filling the planting hole, then tie the tree to the stakes with canvas or burlap strips. Guy wires are run through sections of hose around the trunk so they don't cut the bark.

11. Water, water and WATER! Keep soil moist but not soggy all summer, and sprinkle the foliage early in the day at first. A 3-inch mulch of straw or leaves the first year conserves water and discourages weeds.

12. Feed lightly the first season. Plants suffering from moving-shock need light meals until new feeding roots grow and get hungry.

BackyardGardener.com

La gu?­a que trasplanta para todos jardineros

Su es ?©xito que trasplanta aumentar?¡ si usted observar?¡ unos pocas reglas sencillas que tienen en cuenta las necesidades de plantas. B?¡sico como ellos son, sencillo como ellos pueden parecer, ellos son todav?­a los fundamentos alrededor de cu?¡l trasplantar exitoso se construye, as?­ que los sigue y da las plantas el mejor del cuidado que sigue su transferencia.

Estos son las reglas generales. Esos que se han estrellado, se refieren a los dibujos.

1. El tiempo fresco, nublado y h?ºmedo es mejor, aunque usted pueda trasplantar en casi cualquier vez si usted sigue las reglas detenidamente y/o utiliza uno de los roc?­os pl?¡sticos nuevos que conservan la humedad, previniendo su p?©rdida por las hojas.

2. Prepare el hoyo nuevo que planta primero. H?¡galo m?¡s ancho y m?¡s profundo que usted piensa necesario, piedras que quitan y los escombros como usted cava. O combinaci?³n en el alimento de peatmoss y planta para enriquecer cualquier subsuelo usted desentierra o lo reemplaza con capa superficial del suelo o abono ricos buenos. Entonces el hoyo estar?¡ listo y usted no tendr?¡ que hacer su espera de plantas, permitir las ra?­ces para secar, mientras usted prepara el llena tierra. Rege el hoyo bien; permita empapar en.

3. Un d?­a por ah?­ adelante, empapa alrededor de plantas para ser movido para que usted podido cavar profundamente, para obtener m?¡s ra?­ces y mantener una pelota de tierra alrededor de ra?­ces tranquilas si es posible. De todos modos. . .

4. Mantenga ra?­ces h?ºmedas durante trasplantar. Deba ra?­ces son descubierto (a dividir las plantas perennes esto es inevitable) los mantiene cubrieron con un saco mojado o empapan en un cubo de agua hasta utilizado. El tac?³n ellos en si m?¡s de unos pocos horas deben pasar antes poner en el lugar.

5. La pelota de la ra?­z de la prueba para el tama?±o en el hoyo nuevo estar segura que las ra?­ces esparcir?¡n bien sin conmovedora la orilla del hoyo o sin doblar o inclinar arriba en las orillas. Cave el hoyo por lo menos 1 pie m?¡s grande que la extensi?³n de las ra?­ces para ?¡rboles y 6 pulgadas m?¡s grande para arbustos.

6. Coloque tierra buena bajo pelota de ra?­z para que la planta sea la misma profundidad que lo creci?³ como antes. (Usted ser?¡ capaz de ver la marca de tierra en el tronco o tallos.) Llene alrededor de pelota de ra?­z, regar en y en la planta rupestre asentarse suavemente y para atar tierra en el contacto con ra?­ces, o trabajar la tierra en alrededor de las ra?­ces con manos.

7. El abono la recuperaci?³n auxiliada por-soluciones que trasplanta, dar el "motor auxiliar de propulsi?³n" necesario vencer el golpe que trasplanta. No sea alarm?³ si plantas son retrasadas un por un tiempo del pedacito.

8. Pode ?¡rboles y arbustos caducos (no de hoja ancha ni los ?¡rboles de hoja perenne de la aguja) compensar la p?©rdida de ra?­ces, las ramitas que reducen acerca de 1/3, manteniendo la forma futura de planta en la mente. No corte a l?­deres (topmost la ramita vertical) en ?¡rboles ni la forma ser?¡ estropeado.

9. D?© sombra plantas peque?±as del sol y proteja de vientos secantes. Envuelva troncos de ?¡rboles con la arpillera o papel duro causaron este prop?³sito para prevenir sunscald el primer a?±o. Los roc?­os del pl?¡stico ahora permiso moviendo plantas que est?¡n en la hoja repleta.

10. Los ?¡rboles de la estaca para evitar el da?±o de viento por inclinar que rompe ra?­ces nuevas peque?±as. Un ?¡rbol peque?±o cuyo tronco en la altura de cintura es abajo 3 pulgadas en necesidades de di?¡metro s?³lo una estaca. Los ?¡rboles m?¡s grande requieren dos estacas o, mejor, tres o cuatro alambres de tipo. El conjunto estaca antes llenar el hoyo que planta, entonces ata el ?¡rbol a las estacas con tiras de lona o arpillera. Los alambres del tipo se corren por secciones de manga alrededor del tronco tan ellos no cortan la corteza.

11. ¡El agua, el agua y el AGUA! Mantenga tierra h?ºmeda pero no empapado todo verano, y roc?­e el follaje temprano en el d?­a al principio. Un pajote de 3 pulgadas de paja o sale el primer a?±o conserva agua y desalienta hierbas.

12. Alimente levemente la primera temporada. Las plantas sufriendo de mover el golpe necesita comidas ligeras hasta que ra?­ces nuevas que alimenten crecen y obtienen hambriento.

BackyardGardener.com

When Buying Plants and How Much Water is Enough?

When Buying Plants

For many gardeners, there's nothing better than a trip to the garden centre or nursery for a little retail therapy. To bring home a car trunk full of the right plants at the right price, follow our guide to successful shopping.


Where to shop

Garden centers

Garden centers are the department stores of the gardening world, stocking everything from plants to outdoor furniture. A local directory, such as Yellow Pages, will list garden centers in your local area.

Nurseries

Nurseries tend to be smaller and more plant-focused than garden centers. They are often run by plant enthusiasts who specialise in a particular group of plants and can be a great place to get specialist advice.

Mail order and online

This is an increasingly popular way of buying plants, especially plug plants which are easy to pack and post. The only disadvantage is that you cannot see the plants before you buy them.
Buying plants

Tips for successful shopping

The best idea is to spend time looking at the conditions in your garden before you go shopping – how much sun does it get? What is the soil like? You can then research which plants would do well in your garden and give you the 'look' you're after. Our plant finder will help you to track down the best plants or you could try some of the experts' top ten plants for different places.


Buy plants that will enjoy the conditions in your garden. A sun-loving plant will never do well if your garden is shady.


Be wary of colourful displays of plants in full flower or special promotions. Before that impulse shopping urge overcomes you, check the plant is suited to the conditions in your garden.


Save some money and buy smaller plants as they’re often much cheaper than larger specimens and will quickly grow.


If you want the instant impact of a bigger specimen, don't be afraid to take the plant out of its pot to check that it's not a smaller one that has recently been repotted to be sold for twice the price.


Look for plants that can be divided or used for taking cuttings from. That way you'll be able to get extra plants for your money.


Buying plants

What to look out for and what to avoid

Flowers

If the plant is in flower, check it matches the picture on the label. If it doesn’t and you'd like to buy it, ask the staff to identify it for you.

Leaves

Unless they're supposed to be coloured or variegated, leaves should be a healthy shade of green. Look out for any signs of pests and diseases.

Stems and branches

Look for a plant that has an attractive shape. Avoid ones with broken stems or branches.

Compost

Moss, liverwort or weeds in the pot are not freebies that you want. Also watch out for compost that is bone dry.

Roots

Knock the plant gently and take a look at the roots. A good plant will fill its pot with roots. Avoid any where the roots are jammed in and curling around as these have been in their pot too long and are pot-bound. Also avoid any that have only recently been repotted and are more compost than roots
---------------------

How Mudh Water Is Enough?

WHEN CONFRONTED with a dry garden and the end of a hose, many gardeners admit to a certain insecurity about just how much water those plants really need. Here's a guide to help you estimate when and how much to water, assuming rich, well-balanced soil. Increase frequency during hot, very dry periods.

Needs a lot of water during dry spells: cabbage, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach. squash (all types)
Needs water at critical stages of development: beans, corn, peas, potatoes, tomatioes
Does not need frequent watering: beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, carrots, onions, parsnips


Vegetable Critical time(s) to water: Gallons of water for a 5-foot row - Comments

Beans When flowers form and during pod-forming and picking: 2 per week depending on rainfall. - Dry soil when pods are forming will adversely affect quantity and quality.

Beets Before soil gets bone-dry: 1 gallon at early stage; 2 every 2 weeks - Water sparingly during early stages to prevent foliage from becoming too lush at the expense of the roots; increase water when round roots form.

Broccoli Don't let soil dry out for 4 weeks after transplanting. 1 to 1-1/2 per week - Best crop will result with no water shortage.

Brussels sprouts Don't let soil dry out for 4 weeks after transplanting. 1 to 1-1/2 per week -Plants can endure dry conditions once they are established. Give 2 gallons the last 2 weeks before harvest for most succulent crop.

Cabbage Water frequently in dry weather for best crop. 2 per week If crop suffers some dry weather, focus efforts on providing 2 gallons 2 weeks before harvest. (Too much water will cause heads to crack.)

Carrots Before soil gets bone-dry; 1 at early stage; 2 every 2 weeks as roots mature - Roots may split if crop is watered after soil has become too dry.

Cauliflower Water frequently for best crop: 2 per week Give 2 gallons before harvest for best crop.

Celery Water frequently for best crop: 2 per week - If conditions are very dry, water daily.

Corn When tassels form and when cobs swell: 2 at important stages (left) - Cob size will be smaller if plants do not receive water when ears are forming.

Cucumbers Water frequently for best crop: 1 per week - Water diligently when fruits form and throughout growth; give highest watering priority.

Lettuce/Spinach Water frequently for best crop: 2 per week - Best crop will result with no water shortage.

Onions In dry weather water in early stage to get plants going: 1/2 to 1 per week if soil is very dry - Withhold water from bulb onions at later growth stages to improve storage qualities; water salad onions anytime soil is very dry.

Parsnips Before soil gets bone-dry ; 1 per week in early stages - Water when dry to keep plants growing steadily. Too much water will encourage lush foliage and small roots.

Peas When flowers form and during pod-forming and picking: 2 per week - To reduce excess foliage nd stem growth, do not water young seedlings unless wilting.

Potatoes When the size of marbles: 2 per week In dry weather give 2 gallons throughout the growing season every 10 days. - Swings from very dry to very wet produce oddly shaped and cracked tubers.

Squash (all types) Water frequently for best crop: 1 per week - Water diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth; give highest watering priority.

Tomatoes - For 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting and when flowers and fruit form: 1 twice a week or more - Frequent watering may increase yield but adversely affect flavor.


Del Almanaque Viejo de Granjero, aqu?­ est?¡n algunas sugerencias;

CUANDO CONFRONTO con un jard?­n seco y el fin de una manga, muchos jardineros confiesan una cierta inseguridad acerca de agua apenas cu?¡nta que esas plantas necesitan realmente. Aqu?­ est?¡ una gu?­a para ayudarlo a estimar cuando y cu?¡nto regar, asumiendo tierra bien equilibrada rica. Aumente la frecuencia durante per?­odos muy secos calientes.

Las necesidades mucha agua durante ratos secos: col, la coliflor, el apio, los pepinos, la lechuga, la espinaca. calabaza (toda clase) agua de Necesidades en etapas cr?­ticas
del desarrollo: frijoles, el ma?­z, los guisantes, las papas, tomatioes no necesita regar frecuente: remolachas, el br?©col, las coles de bruselas, las zanahorias, las cebollas,
los chiriv?­as

El tiempo (s) Cr?­tico vegetal regar: Galones de agua para una fila de 5 pies - los Comentarios

Los frijoles Cuando flores forman y durante formando de vaina y escogiendo: 2 por la semana dependiendo de la lluvia. - Seca tierra cuando las vainas forman afectar?¡ adversamente la cantidad y la calidad.

Las remolachas Antes tierra obtiene hueso seca: 1 gal?³n en la etapa temprana; 2 cada 2 semanas - Agua frugalmente durante etapas tempranas prevenir follaje de llegar a ser demasiado exuberante a costa de las ra?­ces; agua de aumento cuando redondea forma de ra?­ces. El br?©col no permiti?³ que tierra seque por 4 semanas despu?©s de trasplantar. 1 a 1-1/2 por la semana - Mejor cosecha resultar?¡ sin la escasez de agua.

Los brotes de Bruselas no permiten que tierra seque por 4 semanas despu?©s de trasplantar. 1 a 1-1/2 por la semana -Plantas pueden aguantar las condiciones secas una vez ellos son establecidos. D?© 2 galones las ?ºltimas 2 semanas antes de cosecha para la mayor?­a de las cosechas suculentas.

El Agua de la col con frecuencia en tiempo seco para mejor cosecha. 2 por la semana Si la cosecha sufre alg?ºn tiempo seco, los esfuerzos del foco a proporcionar 2 galones 2 semanas antes de cosecha. (Demasiado agua causar?¡ que cabezas agrieten.)

Las zanahorias Antes tierra obtiene hueso seca; 1 en la etapa temprana; 2 cada 2 semanas como ra?­ces maduran - Ra?­ces pueden partir si cortan es regado despu?©s que tierra ha llegado a ser seca tambi?©n.

El Agua de la coliflor con frecuencia para mejor cosecha: 2 por la semana Dan 2 galones antes de cosecha para mejor cosecha.

El Agua del apio con frecuencia para mejor cosecha: 2 por la semana - Si las condiciones son muy secas, riega diario.

El ma?­z Cuando las borlas forman y cu?¡ndo mazorcas se hinchan: 2 en etapas (izquierdas) importantes - el tama?±o de Mazorca ser?¡ m?¡s peque?±o si plantas no reciben agua cuando orejas forman.

Los pepinos Riegan con frecuencia para mejor cosecha: 1 por la semana - Riega diligentemente cu?¡ndo fruta forman y a trav?©s del crecimiento; d?© regando alto la prioridad.

La lechuga/Agua de espinaca con frecuencia para mejor cosecha: 2 por la semana - Mejor cosecha resultar?¡ sin la escasez de agua.

Las cebollas En el agua seca de tiempo en la etapa temprana obtener plantas que van: 1/2 a 1 por la semana si tierra es muy seca - Retiene agua de cebollas de bombilla en etapas posteriores de crecimiento para mejorar las calidades de almacenamiento; cebollas de ensalada de agua en cualquier momento tierra es muy seca.

Los chiriv?­as Antes tierra obtiene hueso seca; 1 por la semana en etapas tempranas - Agua cuando seca para mantener plantas que crecen constantemente. Demasiado agua alentar?¡ follaje exuberante y ra?­ces peque?±as.

Los guisantes Cuando flores forman y durante formando de vaina y escogiendo: 2 por la semana - reducir el crecimiento del tallo de nd de follaje de exceso, no riega semilleros j?³venes a menos que marchite.

Las papas Cuando el tama?±o de m?¡rmoles: 2 por la semana En el tiempo seco dan 2 galones a trav?©s del crecer sazonar cada 10 d?­as. - Los Columpios de muy seco mojar muy el producto los tub?©rculos imparmente formado y agrietado.

Aplaste (toda clase) Agua con frecuencia para mejor cosecha: 1 por la semana - Riega diligentemente cu?¡ndo fruta forman y a trav?©s de su crecimiento; d?© regando alto la prioridad.

Los tomates - Para 3 a 4 semanas despu?©s que trasplantar y cuando forma de flores y fruta: 1 dos veces a la semana o m?¡s - Frecuenta regar puede aumentar el rendimiento pero adversamente sabor de afecto.

NEVER ENOUGH TO WASTE
Sprinkler season is upon us! As our winter rains dry up and we roll into our long summer drought, people throughout the Bay Area are beginning to turn their garden irrigation systems on, and Susan Handjian and Chris Finch, water-conservation representatives at the San Francisco East Bay Municipal Utilities District (EDMUD), have some suggestions on how we can get the most out of our systems this season. Note: Like New York, the Bay Area suffered through drought last year. Ed.

First, turn your system on and take a good, long look at what your sprinklers or drip emitters (used with drip-irrigation systems) are actually watering. Over the years, sprinkler spray heads can get knocked around, and you may find you're now watering more driveway than lawn or your sidewalk is wetter than your flower bed.

If so, take a moment to adjust your sprinkler heads so you're watering something that needs it, like grass, and not asphalt. If a sprinkler head is old and you find it won't adjust any longer, Handjian says, take the plunge and replace it: The replacement price is minimal compared to the cost of the water being wasted. NOTE: BQLT members, contact the Gardens Operation Committee about this problem.

If you've got a drip-emitter system, check out your emitters. They can get broken or clogged and will need to be replaced -- also easy and cheap to do. We're talking a dollar apiece and three minutes to pop the old emitter off and squeeze a new one on.

Next, learn to love your irrigation timer. Yes, it's true, these things are no easier to program than a VCR, but it's worth the effort to master your timer so you can adjust your watering schedule easily. Finch says most timers are set once and never touched again in 20 years but points out that in early spring and late fall, when we can get some rain, we need to water much less than during the bone-dry months of July, August and September, and we should set our timers accordingly.

Also, if you become adept with your timer, you can take advantage of any unseasonal rains. Depending on the amount of rainfall we receive, you may not have to water for several days after a rain.

And, finally, consider hydro-zoning, grouping plants together in zones or areas based on their water requirements and watering those plants on the same circuit. Most irrigation systems offer you several circuits for this very purpose so that your herb garden, which you might water weekly, isn't on the same watering line as your lawn, which you may irrigate every other day. (At that rate, your herbs may need to learn the backstroke to stay above all that water.) In fact, Handjian says, most people overwater their gardens by 40 percent.

Nunca MALGASTAR BASTANTE
¡La temporada de la regadera est?¡ sobre nosotros! Cuando nuestras lluvias de invierno se secan y arrollamos en nuestra sequ?­a larga del verano, las personas a trav?©s del Area del Bah?­a empiezan a girar sus sistemas de la irrigaci?³n del jard?­n en, y en Susan Handjian y Pinz?³n de Chris, representantes de conservaci?³n de agua en el San Francisco la Bah?­a Oriental el Distrito (EDMUD) Municipal de Utilidades, tiene algunas sugerencias en c?³mo podemos obtener el la mayor?­a del fuera de nuestros sistemas esta temporada. La nota: Como Nueva York, el Area del Bah?­a sufrida por la sequ?­a el a?±o pasado. La educaci?³n.

Primero, prende su sistema y toma un bueno, largo mira lo que sus emisores de regaderas o gota (utiliz?³ con sistemas de irrigaci?³n de gota) riegan verdaderamente. Sobre los a?±os, cabezas de roc?­o de regadera pueden obtener golpeado alrededor, y usted puede encontrar que usted ahora riega m?¡s camino de entrada que c?©sped o su acera son m?¡s mojados que su cama de flor.

Si eso es el caso, toma un momento de ajustar su regadera dirige tan usted riega algo que necesita, como c?©sped, y no asfalto. Si una cabeza de la regadera es vieja y usted encuentra no ajustar?¡ m?¡s largo, Handjian dice, toma el hunde y lo reemplaza: El precio del reemplazo es m?­nimo compar?³ con el costo del agua para se malgastar. La NOTA: miembros de BQLT, contactan el Comit?© de la Operaci?³n de Jardines acerca de este problema.

Si usted ha obtenido un sistema de emisor de gota, averig?¼e sus emisores. Ellos pueden obtener rotos o atascados y necesitar?¡n ser reemplazado -tambi?©n f?¡cil y barato hacer. Hablamos un d?³lar cada uno y tres minutos de pinchar el emisor viejo lejos y apretar uno nuevo en.

Pr?³ximo, aprende a adorar su reloj de la irrigaci?³n. S?­, es verdad, estas cosas no son m?¡s f?¡cil de programar que un VIDEO, pero vale el esfuerzo de dominar su reloj tan usted puede ajustar su horario que riega f?¡cilmente. Pinz?³n dice que la mayor?­a de los relojes se ponen una vez y nunca tocadas otra vez en 20 a?±os pero indican que en la primavera temprana y tarde ca?­da, cuando podemos obtener alguna lluvia, nosotros necesitamos regar mucho menos que durante el hueso seca meses de julio, agosto y septiembre, y nosotros deben poner nuestros relojes por consiguiente.

Tambi?©n, si usted llega a ser experto con su reloj, usted puede aprovecharse de alguna lluvia intempestiva. Dependiendo de la cantidad de la lluvia que recibimos, usted no tendr?¡ que regar por varios d?­as despu?©s de una lluvia.

Y, finalmente, considera balneario declarando, agrupando plantas juntos en zonas o ?¡reas basadas en sus requisitos de agua y regar esas plantas en el mismo circuito. La mayor?­a de los sistemas de la irrigaci?³n le ofrecen varios circuitos para este muy prop?³sito para que su jard?­n de hierba, que usted quiz?¡s riegue semanal, no est?¡ en la misma l?­nea que riega como su c?©sped, que usted puede irrigar cada dos d?­as. (En esa tasa, sus hierbas pueden necesitar aprender la braza de espalda para permanecer sobre todo esa agua.) De hecho, Handjian dice, LA MAYORIA de LOS overwater de PERSONAS sus jardines por el 40 por ciento.