Brooklyn Queens Land Trust

Flower Arranging Basics

Tools and Materials; Quick Tips; Flower Conditioning

Tools and Materials

From the book, Your Guide to Creativity by Jo-Ann Stores, Inc.

If you're familiar with the essential floral arranging tools, creating designs will be a breeze.


Alphabetical List. (The list is by no means complete. These are just the basics. As you grow more confident, you'll find uses for other things.)

No arrangement is too elaborate
with these tools in hand.

Dry Foam: Dry foam is used specifically for dried and silk flower arranging. The dry foam will hold flower or greenery stems at any angle without the use of glue or floral picks. It is easily cut into any shape and placed into any size container.


Floral Spray Paints: Floral spray paints designed for dried, silk, and fresh flowers come in a rainbow of colors, including metallics and glitter. These sprays are used for changing the color of flowers or adding special color effects and glitter highlights.

Floral Spray Sealer: A crystal clear spray used in floral arranging to help seal surfaces and create a shine on matt finishes.

"Frog" or Kenzan: The "frog" or kenzan is a metal device with lots of sharp pins pointing upward. It is used when dry foam will not work, such as in a clear glass bowl or on a plate. The frog is held into place with sticky clay, then the flower stems are placed into the frog between the steel pins.

Use glass marbles and river rock
in clear glass containers.

Glass Marbles and River Rock: These polished glass and stone accents can be embedded into the Liquid Illusion resin for color and also can be used in and around arrangements for texture. They also add interest in the bottom of clear glass vases and containers and hide stem ends.

Glue Gun and White Crafts Glue: A glue gun and hotmelt adhesive are indispensable tools that work well for silk and dried flower arrangements. The hotmelt adhesive dries quickly and is almost invisible. No crafter's toolbox should be without one. White glue can also be used for the same purpose as a hot-glue gun, but it dries more slowly.

Greening Pins (Ferning Pins): Greening pins (also called ferning pins) are used for stabilizing moss and securing other materials to straw or dry foam. The pins may have a "U"shape at the top or an "S"shape.

Liquid Illusion: Liquid Illusion is used to create the illusion of water in clear glass containers while firmly holding the stems of silk flowers in place. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing. Glass floral marbles are often embedded in the hard resin for color.

Mosses are used as fillers in
floral arrangements.

Moss Types:

Spanish Moss: has a warm brown color, and can be used to cover the foam and mechanics of design in a permanent botanical arrangement. As a general rule, Spanish moss is used either for its specific texture or color, working best with cool colors like blues, purples, and grays.

Sheet Moss: is a green moss with applications that are similar to those of Spanish moss, but it works best with warmer colors like reds, golds, and oranges.

Reindeer Moss: is a gray-green, sponge-like moss that grows on the ground about 1 to 4 inches in height. Reindeer moss is used to support a focal point in arrangements or mixed with other mosses as filler.

Natural Excelsior: Used for the same purpose as moss, excelsior is made from wood shavings. It is used to cover dry foam for silk and dried floral arrangements or in baskets as filler.

Pearl-head Corsage Pins: Pearl-head corsage pins are used in making corsages and boutonnieres.


Use a pick tool to crimp metal
picks onto stems.


Pick Tool and Metal Picks: This handy tool will crimp a sharp metal pick onto the stem of floral materials and makes arranging flowers a breeze.

Pew Clips: Small plastic hangers designed to hold small floral arrangements and clip onto the ends of pews.

Pillar and Taper Holders: These handy candle cup holders have a pointed tip underneath the cup that sticks into the dry foam and securely holds pillar or taper candles.

Floral tape, waterproof tape, and
sticky clay.

Tapes and Clay:

Floral Tape or Stem Tape: Floral tape is a stretchable tape that is used for covering wire and flower stems primarily in corsage and wedding work. The tape sticks to itself for a smooth finished look on wire. Available in several colors.

Waterproof Tape: Available in 1/4-inch width, this tape is used to secure foam into a container by securing the tape to one side of the container, over the foam, then securing it to the other side. Most often, it is criss-crossed for added stability. It also can be used to anchor pillar and taper holders securely in place.

Sticky Clay: is just that: sticky. It is used to anchor frogs, prongs, and floral foam to dry containers.

Wire and Picks:

Wire Cutters: Use wire cutters when shortening wire and trimming several thicknesses of wire. Scissors are not recommended for these tasks.

Wood picks, floral wire, and
chenille stems.

Wood Picks: are slender stakes 3 inches or longer. They will add strength to weak and/or fragile stems. Secure stems to picks with attached wire.

Floral Wire: Floral wire is available in several different gauges and lengths. It is commonly used for holding up the heads of flowers and lengthening the stems for corsage and bouquet work. Some floral wire is fabric covered. Floral wire is usually found rolled on spools. Heavier wire often comes in cut lengths. The advantage of spool wire is that it can be used for a garland in one continuous length.

Chenille Stems: Chenille stems (or pipe cleaners) are used to secure the ribbon for making bows.


Quick Tips
Make your rooms bloom with these ideas and tips.

Keep your flowers fresh with these
easy methods.

Unless your flowers arrive already arranged, quick action when you get them home will keep them fresh longer.
(By the way, these tips also work to revive stale arrangements as you transfer the remaining healthy blooms to another container.)


Using a sharp knife, trim off any leaves that will fall below the water line in the vase. Rotting foliage contaminates the water.


Submerge the stem in warm water and cut off at least 1 inch. Cutting under water keeps the stem free of air bubbles, which can block the flow of water and nutrients to the flower head and result in bent necks and prematurely wilted blooms.


Trim stems at an angle. The angle keeps the stem from standing flat on the vase bottom, which would slow water intake.
An angled cut also makes it easier to insert the stem into floral foam or a water pick.

Cut your flowers in the cool hours of the morning.

If you're lucky enough to have a flower garden, or access to a friend's, keep these tips in mind when harvesting your homegrown blooms.

Cut flowers in the early morning, when temperatures are coolest.

Use a sharp knife and cut about an inch above a leaf.

Carry a bucket of warm water with you and immediately place the cut flower stems into it.

When trimming thorns from roses, take care not to nick the stem. (Stem wounds allow air bubbles to enter.)

Trim the sharp tips only, angling the knife blade away from the stem (and you).

Conditioning the Flowers

Conditioning involves the preparation of cut plant material prior to its arrangement, to ensure that its life is not unduly shortened. Correct conditioning will make sure that flowers and foliage last for the maximum time, providing the most value and enjoyment.

One of the most common causes of wilting in cut flowers and foliage is the presence of an air-lock in the stem. The air-lock usually forms as the flower is cut, when atmospheric pressure forces air into the water ducts of the stem in which there is normally a partial vacuum. It is virtually impossible to prevent the ends of dry-packed flowers and foliage from drying out during transit from the grower to the wholesaler, and from the wholesaler to the Florist. For this reason, many flowers are now shipped with their stems in a few inches of water. Flowers cut from the garden and left for any time before being conditioned will also form an air lock, so always carry a bucket of water with you into the garden, so that you can place the plant material into water immediately, on a temporary basis, thus preventing the stem ends from drying out.

All plant material should be unpacked as soon as possible after buying from the florist, and any plastic sleeves and elastic bands should be removed. If cutting flowers and foliage from the garden, the best time for cutting is early morning, or late evening. This is the time when flowers have the maximum amount of water in their stems, and they will condition more readily. Cutting in the heat of the day allows the material to wilt much quicker. Whether flowers are bought from the florist, or picked from the garden, all lower leaves should be removed from each stem, as any leaves left under water when conditioning will quickly begin to rot and cause a build-up of bacteria which will clog the stem ends, preventing the uptake of water, as well as causing the water to smell foul.

All buckets used for conditioning should be meticulously clean, and should be cleaned out regularly, to prevent the build up of bacteria. After removing the lower leaves, all stem ends should have the bottom ½" - 1" removed at a sharp angle, thus exposing more of the central area of the stem, known as the xylem tissue, which is responsible for the uptake of water. As a general rule, buckets should be filled to about ¼ full with warm water, to which cut flower food has been added at the appropriate rate. This will prolong the life of the flowers, and helps to prevent bacterial growth. Using warm water allows the water to enter the stem more rapidly, so conditioning is quicker. However, use cool water for bulb flowers, unless you want them to open quickly. Flowers and foliage should be left in the water for at least two or three hours, and preferably overnight, before arranging them.

One important thing to remember is that stem ends should never be hammered, as this causes damage to the tissues, which leads to a build up of bacteria, thus shortening the life of the material.

Plant material should be conditioned according to its stem type, and conditioning varies with different stem types:-

Woody Stems (E.g. Roses, Mimosa, Eucalyptus, Beech, Yew, Pittosporum, etc.)

Stems should be cut at a sharp angle, and the stem ends split for about ½". Remove all the lower foliage which will be below the level of the water, and place the stems in a bucket about ¼ filled with warm water, to which cut flower food has been added at the appropriate rate.

Semi-Woody Stems (E.g. Chrysanthemums, Lilies, Carnations, Leatherleaf, Asparagus Fern, etc.)

These should be conditioned by cutting the stem ends at a sharp angle, removing all the lower foliage which will be below the level of the water, and placing the stem ends in a bucket about ¼ filled with warm water, to which cut flower food has been added at the appropriate rate. Special flower food is available for Lilies, and this should be used if possible.

Soft Stems (E.g. Freesia, Hellebore, Anemone, etc.)

Condition as above, but deeper water should be used so that the flowers are immersed up to their necks. After a good overnight drink, the flowers can then be arranged.

Hollow Stems (E.g. Delphiniums, Lupins, etc.)

Hollow stems are notorious for forming air-locks, as air enters the stem as soon as it is cut. Cut the stems at an angle and remove lower leaves as usual. Turn the stems upside down, and fill the hollow stem with tepid water. Plug the stem with cotton wool, or hold your thumb over it until it is placed in the bucket.

Milky Stems (E.g. Poppies, Euphorbias, Poinsettias, Ficus, etc.)

The stems of some flowers exude a milky substance, called latex, when cut. This can be messy, and also can be an irritant if it comes into contact with the skin. Therefore, plant material in this category should have the stem ends cut, and then the end should be burnt in a flame for a few seconds, to seal it. The cut stem ends can also be rinsed under running warm water to remove excess latex, before placing into warm water for conditioning.

Bulbous Stems (E.g. Daffodils, Tulips, Bluebells, Hyacinths, etc.)

Most bulbous stemmed flowers are pulled, not cut, from the plant by the grower. This means that the end of the stem is often white and firm. The stem will often not drink from this white area, therefore, it should be removed completely, by cutting at an angle, as water can only be absorbed through the green part of the stem. Bulb flowers should be conditioned in cool to tepid water, unless the flowers are wanted open, as warm water speeds up the development of bulbous flowers. Special flower food for bulb flowers is available, and should be used if possible. **Special Note - Daffodil stems exude a poisonous sap when cut. This will kill other flowers if Daffodils are conditioned in the same water.** Therefore, they should always be conditioned separately. If they are being arranged in water, they should be arranged separately, but if being arranged in floral foam, this is not necessary, and they can be arranged together with other flowers.

Special Notes for certain types of material


Shiny or smooth foliage should always be washed, as this removes any dirt and dust. It's also a good idea to use a leaf-shine product, thus enhancing the appearance.

Single leaves can be completely immersed in water to condition them.



Grey foliage such as Santolina or Senecio, or woolly foliage such as Stachys lanata should never be fully immersed to condition it, as the water is absorbed by the grey covering and the colour of the foliage would be spoiled. Also, absorbed water can be siphoned by these leaves, creating pools of water outside the container.


Very new growth, such as spring foliage, should not be used, as it is very difficult to condition, and does not last well.


Flowers which sometimes wilt even after conditioning, (roses, for example), should have their stems re-cut, and the stem ends placed in very hot or near-boiling water. This destroys the air lock, and enables the plants to take up water again. The heads of the flowers should be wrapped in tissue paper or newspaper to protect them from the steam. When the flowers have revived, (usually after ¼ to ½ hour) re-cut the stem ends, as the boiling water will have damaged them, and continue to condition overnight before re-arranging them.


Carnations and pinks should have their stems cut between the node or joint, as they cannot take up water if cut or broken on the node.


Tulips should be wrapped in newspaper when conditioning, to keep the stems upright, as Tulips tend to "do their own thing" when being conditioned. Tulips continue to grow after being cut, and can grow up to 1" per day. They will always turn towards the light as well, and the flowers will turn upwards if arranged horizontally or almost horizontally. This should be taken into account when using tulips.


Some flowers, such as Gladioli, will always turn upwards at the tip if not arranged vertically. (For the botanically minded, this is a phenomenon called "negative geotropism" whereby the stem tips always turn away from gravity. Roots are positively geotropic, therefore, they will always head towards gravity!) One way to avoid this happening is to carefully pinch out the top few buds, as it is only these which are affected.


Clematis, Violets and Hydrangea benefit from complete immersion of the flowers to condition them.



Lilac, Azalea, Philadelphus, Forsythia, Rhododendron, and other woody flowering stems, should have all the foliage removed, as it prevents sufficient water from reaching the flower head.



Lilies should have their stamens removed before the pollen forms, to prevent staining of the petals, or clothes and furnishings.


Mimosa should have the flower heads covered in a plastic bag whilst being conditioned, to prevent drying out.


Sweet peas, Pansies and Primroses should not be sprayed, as this can disfigure the petals.

Floral Design Elements; Floral Foarm; Using Fresh/Fake Flowers

Floral Design Elements

Keeping these elements in mind as you design floral arrangements will give you beautiful results each time.

Harmony, Line & Form

Synchronize colors, elements and
textures of a room around a theme.

Harmony: Floral designs that tie the colors, elements, or textures of a room together create a harmonious theme in the surrounding decor. For example, use the room's wall color within the arrangement to achieve decorator results.



Line: Line refers to the curves or directional movement of the arrangement. Consider the decor and architectural elements of the room where the flowers are to be placed. This will help determine the design lines and overall look of straight or curved lines. For example, rooms with tall windows, columns, or other vertical decor call for florals with tall thin lines that imitate the dominant features in the room.

Form: Form applies to the fundamental shape of an arrangement such as a ball, triangle, "L," or "S" shape. Free-form designs have materials that fall outside of basic shapes.


2 Kinds of Balance

Balance: Balance refers to the correct proportion of flowers to the vase as it relates to the height and width of the floral composition.

Balanced floral designs fall into two categories: symmetrical or asymmetrical. As a rule of thumb, the arrangement should be about one and a half times the height of the container.

There should be equality on either
side of the arrangment.

Symmetrical:<.I> These designs are created so that both sides of the design are equal. If a line were drawn down the center of the arrangement, both sides would have a similar look.

The designer can add flair by
playing with visual weights.

Asymmetrical: Arrangements containing different design elements on each side are considered to be asymmetrical. This type of arrangement must still have the correct weight on both sides to be visually pleasing.


Texture & Contrast

Texture: Texture helps set the tone of the arrangement. Surfaces, containers, and floral elements that are smooth, shiny, reflective, and glittery are best used in formal or elegant settings. Natural or dried materials, raffia, straw, burlap, wire, or rough textures such as wood are informal, and lend themselves to a more relaxed decor. Be sure that the type of flowers or other materials used in the arrangement are compatible with the container and the room decor.


Team large flowers with smaller
ones for a more nuanced design.

Size of Elements: The size of the flowers determines their significance within the arrangement. Larger flowers carry greater visual weight, while it takes several small flowers to equal a single large flower. It is important to realize that both sizes are needed to achieve the correct balance.


Pick similar flowers so that the
arrangement emanates unity.

Similarity of Elements: Similar elements are close in size, texture, and color. Having different flowers that meet this criteria gives you the freedom to substitute one for the other or use a mix of both.


Balance out darker flowers with
lighter blooms.

Color of Elements: Determining the use of light and dark flowers in an arrangement is critical to the balance. Dark-colored flowers carry greater weight than light-colored flowers. Therefore, it may take at least two or more light-colored flowers to equal one dark flower.



Contrast: Arrangements with flowers of contrasting color create dramatic statements and draw attention to the design.


Proportion, Scale & Weight

Keep a dining table centerpiece
low, to facilitate conversation.

Proportion and Scale: The height and size of the floral arrangement should relate to the size and style of the container. The flowers and the accessories must be in correct size relationship to other elements of the design.

Also, consider the placement of the arrangement in the room, and the purpose for which it is intended. Keep a design low for a dining room table where guests will be eating and talking. Tall arrangements are more appropriate for areas such as corner and entry tables, or fireplace mantels.


Weight: Visual weight is determined by the relationship of the larger flowers to the smaller filler flowers within the arrangement. Each flower has a certain degree of importance which is determined by the size, similarity of elements, and color.


© Copyright 2004 Meredith Corporation. All Rights Reserved.




Using Floral Foam Effectively

1) Choose the right foam for the flowers you are using. Generally, green water-retaining foam is for fresh flowers and foliage, whilst the brown stiffer foam is for dried or artificial flowers.

2) Always soak your foam in a bucket or large bowl - never under the tap as this can leave dry spots inside the foam which can't be detected from the outside. This can cause stems to wilt. Fill your bucket or bowl with fresh water, then drop the foam onto the water. Allow it to take up the water naturally (this takes only around 20 seconds for today's modern foams). Do not push the foam under the water. When the top of the foam is level with the surface of the water, take it out immediately and allow it to drain. Oversoaking can cause the foam to break up in use.

3) For traditional arrangements, always cut your floral foam so that it is about 1" higher than the rim of your container. This allows plant material to be arranged more naturally, with some stems flowing down to the sides and front of the arrangement. If the foam is level with the rim of the container, then you can only arrange your stems sticking upwards, resulting in a stiff, unnatural look.

4) When pushing stems into the foam, make sure that the bottom of the stem stays in contact with it. This means that if you push a flower in too far, don’t just pull it up, as this will leave an air-pocket under the stem, causing it to wilt. Always start another hole.

5) Keep the foam supplied with water daily. Plant material uses the water stored in the foam, and once this has dried out, the flowers will wilt.

6) When using anchor tape to secure your foam into position, try squeezing it together as it passes over the foam - this will make it narrower and give you more room on the foam. How many times have you tried to insert a stem, only to find tape?

7) If your floral foam fills the rim of the container, there will be no room to add water without it spilling over the edge of the container. You can get round this by cutting a V shaped notch in the foam before inserting it into the container. It will then be easy to pour water into the notch without it spilling over.

8) Although it's tempting, never re-use foam. If your foam already has holes from a previous arrangement, then you could be putting your stems into thin air! This will create an air lock under the stem, causing it to wilt.

9) If you have soaked your foam, but find you have more than you need, then keep any left over foam in a plastic bag until you need it. Once soaked foam has dried out, it becomes very difficult to soak again. If you're really desperate, then soaking the foam in very hot water will help it to take up the water again.

There are several manufacturers of floral foam, but I suppose one of the best known is Oasis®. Some technical details about Oasis® floral foam can be found here: http://www.smithersoasis.com/res_florists.php.

Oasis® has recently bought out a range of coloured floral foam, called Rainbow Foam, which is suitable for fresh or dried flowers, and can also be used as a design element in its own right. There's some information about it on the Smithers-Oasis website at http://www.smithersoasis.com/us/floral/infosheets.php.


Making Flowers Last Longer

1) Always use clean vases or containers.

2) Remove all leaves which will be under water in the vase. Submerged leaves will rot and create bacteria, shortening the life of your flowers.

3) Always add cut flower food, obtained from your florist, to the vase water - it really does make a difference. Change the vase water (and flower food) every three to four days. Use the cut flower food mixture to top up containers using floral foam too, as this will help to prolong the life of the flowers.

4) Always condition your plant material correctly, according to its stem type (see conditioning page for how to do this.)

5) Most flowers should be picked when they are in bud or half open. You will then have the pleasure of seeing them slowly open up. The colour of the petals should be starting to show. If picked too tightly in bud, they may never open. This is especially true of Tulips, Irises, Daffodils and Roses. Gladioli should be picked when the bottom three or four florets are open and the top florets are still in bud.

6) Don't place your finished arangement in full sun, over a radiator, or in a draught. This will cause excess water loss from the flowers, and they will wilt very quickly. A cool room is the best place to put your flowers for maximum life.

7) Use a container in proportion to the amount of flowers you are using. Too small a container will not hold sufficient water, and may dry out before you realise it.

8) Lightly spray your finished arrangement with clear water from time to time, to create a humid atmosphere around the flowers. (Don't spray the flowers near furnishings or electrical appliances though - move the arrangement first!)



Arranging Fresh Flowers

1) Choose the right foam for the flowers you are using. Generally, green water-retaining foam is for fresh flowers and foliage, whilst the brown stiffer foam is for dried or artificial flowers.

2) Think about the size of the space in which your arrangement will be placed, and choose the size of your container and flowers accordingly. A huge vase and lots of flowers will look overcrowded on a small side table, and equally, a small vase and a few flowers would be completely lost in a large area such as a Church.

3) When making an arrangement for a dining table, keep it low (no more than 9" high at its highest point) so that guests can converse with each other across the table without having to fight their way through the flowers!! However, if you are making an arrangement for a buffet table, always make the arrangement on a pedestal or in a tall vase to bring the flowers up and out of the way of the food.

4) Use flowers in different stages of development, from bud to full bloom. Place the buds at the top and edges of the arrangement, and the largest fullest flowers in the centre of the arrangement, more towards the bottom of the design, to form the focal area. Half-open flowers can fall anywhere between these two.

5) Use flowers and foliage with different shapes, colours and textures, for a more interesting design. Generally, you need three sorts of shapes - line material (straight leaves, such as Iris leaves, Bear Grass, Phormium, and flowers such as Liatris, Foxtail Lilies, etc), generally used to form the outline shape of your design; rounded materials (such as Carnations, open Roses, Gerberas, etc.), generally used as the focal flowers; and intermediate or filler materials, (such as Gypsophila, Waxflower, small, ferny foliage) to act as stepping stones between the other materials, and to "fill in". Use different textured materials such as ferny, furry, bold, etc., which will reflect the light differently and give interest to the design. Try to incorporate different coloured foliage, according to your colour scheme, which again will add interest to the design.

6) When using open flowers such as Roses, Daffodils, Gerbera, etc., try to turn some of them at different angles to show a different shape. Never arrange all your flowers facing forwards - this is very boring!!

7) Always remove the stamens on Lilies. There are several reasons for this: a) the pollen will stain the flower; b) The pollen will stain any clothing or furnishings it may come into contact with; c) removing the stamens makes the flowers last a bit longer (this is because a flower which has been pollinated has completed its job in life, and therefore dies fairly soon after pollination - by removing the stamens, this is prevented, thus making the flower last longer). NEVER cut off the stamens with scissors. This is ugly, and unprofessional, and causes discolouration. Use your fingers to pull the stamens off, leaving a nice neat point which will not discolour.

8) Make sure that your colours are evenly balanced - this means not having more strong colours over one side of the arrangement than the other.

9) Always allow some space between the flowers to prevent a crowded effect. Constance Spry always said one should leave room for the butterflies!

10) Fillers such as sand, small stones or gravel can be used under the foam to raise it up so that you don't have to use so much in a deep container. This will also add weight to the container to make it more stable.

11) When using clear containers, add marbles, layers of interesting pebbles, or shells to hide the foam.

12) Position a container with three legs to show one leg directly in front. This will help the balance of the design, and prevent it from falling forward with the weight of the flowers.

13) Always check that baskets with waterproof linings do not leak before using them. Minute punctures in the plastic lining do not always show up, and can result in unexpected leaks. Fill the basket with water and leave for around half an hour, somewhere waterproof like a draining board or sink. By this time, any minute puncture in the lining will be leaking water, and you will know that the basket leaks. If in doubt, line the basket again with polythene, clingfilm or tinfoil.

14) Never place containers directly onto polished surfaces. Any unexpected water spillage can cause damage which may be difficult and expensive to rectify. Use a waterproof base under the container.

15) Never place your arrangement on top of electrical appliances. Any stray water or an unexpected leak can cause more damage than you had bargained for!



Arranging Artificial Flowers

Most of the above tips for fresh flowers will also apply to artificial flowers, but here are some which are unique to artificial flowers:

1) Artificial materials and the dry-foam in which they are arranged are quite light in weight, so always weight your container with sand, pebbles or gravel at the bottom, to give greater stability. If using a clear container, add marbles, layers of interesting pebbles, or shells to hide the foam and give stability.

2) Use wire cutters to shorten stems, as scissors may not be strong enough. Stems can be lengthened by using wooden floral picks (floral picks are wooden sticks that come in different lengths, and have wire loops at the top. By wrapping the wire loop around the short stem you have the additional length of the wooden stick to use as the flower stem) or use an offcut of another stem of similar thickness and colour. The offcut can be attached with a stub wire, then taped with green or brown floral tape (the crepe sort works best for this, as it tends to be stickier, and doesn't slip whilst you're working with it).

3) Never use bare stub wires in an arrangement. This looks very unprofessional. Use green annealed wires or tape the wire using florists' stem tape.

4) Artificial plants, pre-formed artificial bouquets and foliage can be split into single stems for individual arrangements, or smaller designs like corsages, headdresses and boutonnieres.

5) Think about the way each type of flower or foliage would usually grow, and gently arrange the stems of the flowers and leaves so that they look natural, before inserting them into the foam.

6) When using clear containers, add marbles, layers of interesting pebbles, shells, raffia, pot-pourri or moss (natural or dyed) to hide the foam.

7) If your arrangement is to be permanent, then dip stems in pan glue, white glue or hot glue before inserting them into the foam for greater stability and permanence.

8) Some artificial materials can be swished in warm soapy water to clean them, then rinsed in clear water, but to avoid any problems, and to save having to rearrange the design, regularly use a hairdryer on a low setting to blow off any dust from the arrangement.