Brooklyn Queens Land Trust
Drying Flowers
Preserving Flowers
Drying Flowers
From the book, Step by Step Annuals
Capture the beauty of flowers forever with these preserving and pressing techniques.
Preserving Flowers
Enjoy spring and summer blooms in
the winter with dried flowers.
It's not necessary to say farewell to all your garden flowers at season's end. There are at least five ways to preserve their beauty to brighten up the dull days of winter.
Many blossoms, such as strawflowers(Helichrysum bracteatum), most daisies, celosia, baby's-breath (Gypsophila elegans), statice (Limonium sinuatum), and the annual ornamental grasses, can be air-dried in a number of ways. Whatever the species, first remove all the leaves, then find a room or area that is reasonably dark but has plenty of ventilation.
Flowers with stiff stems, such as bells-of-Ireland (Moluccella laevis), can simply be placed in a glass jar or vase until they are dry. Those that perch on floppy stems can be hung upside down in loose bundles from individual nails or hooks, or a number of bunches can be attached to wire clothes hangers. Or you can staple a big square of chicken wire to a wooden frame, and suspend the flowers with the stems hanging through the holes.
Often when a vase of flowers is forgotten for weeks, the owner will suddenly find the water has long gone but the flowers have dried naturally. This method works especially well for drying leaves.
Another good method for drying flowers employs the fine white sand that is sold at building and home centers and used for filling children's sandboxes. First find a strong plastic or wooden box that can withstand the weight of the sand, then spread an inch-deep layer of sand on the bottom. Carefully place the flowers on that base and slowly sprinkle dry sand over and about the flowers until they are completely covered. Do not cover the container.
Check after three weeks have passed to see if the flowers are dry.
Annuals For Drying
Air-dry annuals in bunches upside
down.
Many annuals are beautiful when dried. Among the best flowers for drying are hollyhock blossoms, zinnias, and cosmos dried in sand or silica gel (found at craft and hobby stores); love-lies-bleeding, prince's-feather (Amaranthus hybridus var. erythrostachys), cockscomb, and plumed celosia hung upside down and air-dried; and snapdragons dried in silica gel. Most of the ornamental grasses, including hare's-tail grass (Lagurus ovatus), quaking grass (Briza maxima and B. minor), foxtail millet (Setaria italica), and squirreltail grass (Hordeum jubatum) dry perfectly by hanging bunches upside down in a dry room, but they must be picked when fresh. Don't forget the leaves of dusty-millers, which are elegant when pressed and dried.
Many annuals can be air-dried by gathering them in bunches and hanging them upside down in a well-ventilated place. Hanging them on a coat hanger works well.
Instructions:
Drying petaled flowers requires a
different technique.
1. The classic way to dry flowers is to gather them in small bunches and hang them upside down in a dry, airy place out of direct sun. You might try suspending the flowers from coat hangers.
2. Many-petaled flowers such as zinnias and marigolds often dry best in a desiccant powder like silica gel. Lay the flower heads on a layer of desiccant, then sprinkle more powder over the flowers to cover.
Timesaving Tip:
Some annuals will dry perfectly when simply stuck in a bottle. Flowers to dry this way include starflower, statice, globe amaranth, and love-in-a-mist.
More Methods
On Wires
Elevate your flowers with
wire.
Flowers that feel dry and papery are very easy to preserve. The strawflower, for example, has petallike bracts that are firm and brittle. To dry, simply clip the bloom from the plant just beneath the head (the stem doesn't dry well). Select flowers that are just beginning to open. Right after picking, insert a 20-gauge wire through the stem end of the flower head; stick the other end of the wire into a foam board. Let dry for 3 weeks.
Upside Down
Another flower that's easy to air-dry is the globe amaranth. Cut the stems when the flowers are just starting to show color and hang them upside down in a dry area for about 3 weeks. Dry baby's breath, fernleaf yarrow, silver-leaved artemisia, liatris, ammobium, statice, celosia, 'Victoria Blue' salvia, hydrangea, and long-stemmed roses in a similar way. These flowers will dry best if you also follow these tips:
Cut stems at bouquet length
Cut flowers in mid-morning
Pick flowers at their peak
Put them in a vase of cool water if you can't hang them to dry right away
In Silica Gel
Silica gel speeds the drying
process.
Some flowers, such as dahlias, zinnias, feverfew, delphiniums, snapdragons, and daisies, dry best in silica gel (found at craft and hobby stores). Place flower heads face up on a 1-inch bed of silica gel crystals in an airtight container. Also, gently shake crystals over flowers, covering completely. Seal container. Leave for two days to one week, checking often to avoid overdrying (flowers will become brittle).
Pressing
Flower pressing is also a great way to preserve the beauty of your garden. It's easy, and it's a great project to do with children. Use a pressed flower as a delicate bookmark, or glue pressed flowers onto cards and paper with white or crafts glue to create romantic stationery. Glue them on homemade greeting cards, or slip them beneath the glass of a picture frame for a unique look.
Pressing flowers between the pages of a heavy book or a magazine is a simple, time-honored practice. Simply fold a paper towel over the flowers you want to press, and carefully set it between the pages of a magazine or book. Be sure not to overlap the petals, and remember to include some leaves, too. You can put several layers of paper towels and flowers between different pages. Then, set a stack of heavy books on top for about two weeks. The best flowers for this method of pressing are the thin ones -- pansy, coralbells, bleeding heart, lily-of-the-valley, hardy geranium, and bellflower.
The book method functions well for simple flowers, but you can press more and a wider variety of flowers with the simple press shown here.
Instructions:
Dry separate petals on a padded
board.
1. Arrange flowers. To press complex or rounded flowers, such as roses, carnations, and mums, begin by dismantling the flower, petal by petal. Arrange the petals on a padded board, making sure that none of the petals touch or overlap.
Rubber bands secure the boards.
2. Insert into press. Place a sheet of blotting paper over the petals. Then top it with a sheet of cardboard. Repeat this procedure with a second padded board. Stack the two sets
of padded boards between the wooden press boards, and bind them together with rubber bands.
3. Allow the flowers to dry for up to several weeks. Or, to speed the process along, place the flower press in a microwave oven and heat for about three minutes on the
defrost setting. The heating time will vary with the microwave oven and the thickness of the petals.
4. Microwaving. If you're using a microwave oven, once the flowers are dry, let them cool completely. Then, with a pair of tweezers, gently remove the petals and store them in an envelope or a flat box until you're ready to use them.
© Copyright 2004 Meredith Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Methods of Preserving Flowers
Methods of Preserving Flowers
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Preserving flowers, an old art practiced during colonial times, is becoming more and more popular with an ever-increasing number of flower-conscious Americans. Drying flowers is a rewarding experience because it is easy to do, the flowers usually dry remarkably well, and they last for many years. Flowers can be preserved in different ways: hanging and pressing, with glycerine, or using various drying agents such as sand, homemade mixtures, or silica gel.
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Methods
Hanging
Air drying or hanging is the easiest and best method for preserving flowers. As a general rule, flowers need only to have the leaves removed and to be hung upside down in a warm, dry, dark place until the moisture content is greatly reduced. An attic, closet, or pantry is often an ideal place; avoid basements, porches, or garages, where dampness may ruin specimens.
Divide the flowers into small bunches to avoid crowding or crushing. The stems of the flowers can be tied together with twine, wire, pipe cleaners, rubber bands, or anything that will hold them securely yet not break the stems. Hang the flowers from a nail driven into an attic rafter, along the wall of a closet, from coat hangers suspended from a crossbar, from a clothesline or from a self-supporting drying rack.
Air drying flowers may take from one to two weeks or more depending on the moisture content of the cut stems and relative humidity. Some flowers should be picked for air drying in the bud stage, or partially opened, as they will continue to open while drying. Others must be picked when they are fully mature.
Suggested flowers to air dry include: strawflowers, goldenrod, hydrangeas, celosia (crested and plumed types), Queen Anne's lace, statice, baby's breath, millet, globe amaranth, salvia, Xeranthemum and many of the "everlastings."
Glycerine
This chemical replaces the water in the plant material, making the preserved plant supple and long-lasting. To use this method, the plant material needs to be gathered in a fully hydrated (non-wilted) state. Use two parts of water to one part of glycerine, making sure the water is luke warm for better mixing and faster absorption. Ordinary car antifreeze will work. If the autumn colors are showing, it may be too late to preserve them in glycerine.
Where leaves only are used, they should be submerged completely in the glycerine-water solution. Where leaves attached to stems are used, then only the stems are immersed into the solution. The time required for completing the preservation process varies, but expect two to perhaps three weeks before the glycerine solution reaches the leaf tips.
If the samples appear to wilt after removal from the solution, then hang them upside down so the glycerine will migrate to leaf and branch tips. For beginners who are looking for assured first-time satisfaction, Mollucella laevis (Bells-of-Ireland) easily absorbs the glycerine solution and shows a wide color variation.
Pressing
Pressing is a very easy way to preserve flowers although the relief is lost and the flowers are flat. Unglazed paper, such as newsprint or an old telephone book, is best for pressing. Spread the flowers so they do not overlap between several thicknesses of newspaper.
Additional layers of paper and flowers can be built up and then covered with a board or piece of cardboard before pressing down with a heavy object. The time required for drying, depending on the flower size or tissue content, can be anywhere from two to four weeks.
The process can be speeded by placing a stack of papers and flowers over a light bulb. Storing pressed flowers is not a problem because they usually are not removed until they are used.
Flowers to press include: aster, bleeding heart, buttercup, chrysanthemum, columbine, cosmos, dahlia, dogwood, English daisy, geranium, larkspur, lily-of-the-valley, marigold, pansy, poppy, rose, sweet pea, violet, and zinnia.
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Sand Drying
Sand must be very fine, clean, dry, and preferably salt free. Sifting is recommended to remove coarse grains and foreign particles. Rinsing the sand in water several times to remove any soil is also recommended. Damp sand can be dried in an oven by placing in shallow pans and baking at 250 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to use only flowers in their prime and process them quickly to prevent wilting.
To dry with sand, place an inch or two of sand in a container; scoop away a small amount of sand to form a depression on the surface; place the flower head upright in this depression and press the sand in and around the outside of the flower to support it.
Next, scoop a little sand into your hand and allow it to trickle in a fine stream around each petal. Start with the outer petals and work inward row by row, allowing the sand to build up equally on all sides of each petal so its position and shape are not altered. Flowers dried with sand are fragile so be very careful when removing them from the sand. Store in a strong carton to protect the petals from breaking.
Homemade Agents
Various mixtures can be made with ingredients found in most kitchens.
For example, use equal proportions of powdered pumice and yellow corn meal or equal proportions of borax and yellow corn meal.
To each quart of either of the mixtures, add 3 tablespoons of salt (non-iodized).
Other grain cereals such as Wheatena or Cream of Wheat can be substituted for corn meal. These mixtures are usually heavier than sand or silica gel, but they work well. Apply the mixture like the sand as described above but in an open container placed in a warm, dry location for about two weeks.
Silica Gel
Silica gel can be found in most garden centers, nurseries, florist, or hobby shops. It absorbs moisture from flowers rapidly, thus preserving flower color better than other drying methods. Most flowers will dry in 36 to 48 hours.
Use silica gel in an airtight container or it will absorb moisture from the air, not from the flower tissues. You can redry the silica gel in a warm oven (not in a microwave) and reuse it for other flowers later.
Winifrede Morrison's book Drying & Preserving Flowers gives details on the use of silica gel.
Flowers that dry well in either borax or silica gel include: rose, aster, carnation, marigold, dahlia, larkspur, geranium, zinnia, chrysanthemum and delphinium. This is a silica gel flower drying method. It has been found that many flowers held almost true to life color and form using this process. AIR DRYING GLYCERINE DESICCANTS PRESSING MICROWAVE
One word of caution when using the homemade agents or silica gel: the flowers will sometimes reabsorb moisture and wilt. For best success with flowers dried in an agent, display your flowers in a closed container to keep out dust and high humidity.
Drying flowers in a microwave oven is becoming popular with some homeowners. Since flowers vary in moisture content, texture and density, care should be taken to use the same sized flowers from one species at a time.
Since research data is unavailable and experience is limited at this time, homeowners are advised to use caution in microwave drying techniques.
Brightly colored flowers dry best. Flowers such as lilies, roses, violets, zinnias, and dahlias work well with this process.
Needed are silica gel, a container safe for the microwave, and fresh flowers. Spent flowers will look spent, and fall apart!
The following is part of a chart from the cookbook Introduction to Touchmatic Cooking with the Amana Radarange:
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Minimum Amount
Flower* Heating Time** of Standing Time
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Carnation 2-1/2 to 3 min. This
is the area where
I depart from my
cookbook's instructions.
Daffodil 1-1/2 to 2 min.
Pansy - 1st drying 45 sec.
2nd drying 1-1/2 min.
Rose 1-1/2 min.
Sunflower 1-3/4 min.
Violet 1-1/2 to 2 min.
Zinnia 2 to 2-1/2 min.
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* If the flower you are drying is not on the list, select one that is near to it in size and form.
**Heating time is on full power.
Method
Partially fill a container with silica gel, place flower in container stem side down. Slowly sift the silica gel around the flower until it is covered.
Place the container in the oven. Place 1 cup of water in the rear left corner of the Radarange. Heat on full power.
Check the chart for time. Large flowers take longer heating times.
Important! After heating, the flower must stand in the silica gel until the silica gel is cool. This takes much longer than the instructions given in the cookbook. Not letting the flower stand long enough may be the reason many people experience failures. Don't try to remove any flower for two hours; generally from four to six hours is needed. If the flower is removed too soon it will be warm and limp, and will not be able to hold its form.
The following is a list of other flowers and times that are suggested:
Verbena (four flowers) . . . 75 sec.
Miniature rose (three flowers) . . . 70 sec.
Dahlia (3") 1¾ . . . 2 min.
Keep a notebook of each container of flowers you "cook." You will soon discover the best times for your favorite flowers, and you won't have to rediscover this next summer.
Your flowers should be sprayed with a clear matt finish to keep them from rehydrating.
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References:
Patricia Thorpe, Everlastings, the Complete Book of Dried Flowers, ISBN 0-395-41160-2, Houghton Mifflin Company, Quarto Marketing Ltd, 15 West 26th Street, New York, NY 10010, 1985.
Winifrede Morrison, Drying & Preserving Flowers, ISBN 0-8521-9605-9, Dryad Press, 4 Fitzhardinge Street, London, Great Britain W1H0AH, 1985.
Ronald C. Smith, Horticulturist and Turfgrass Specialist
More Preserving Flowers: "How to and What to"
Many flowers and foliages can be preserved well using various methods. The main methods used are: Air Drying, Glycerine, Desiccants, and Pressing. It is also possible to preserve certain material using a microwave oven. The method for each type of preserving is below - scroll down the page:
Air Drying
Pick flowers when they are dry - never after a shower, as moisture can be trapped between leaves and petals and can cause mould to develop. Divide the flowers into small bunches, and tie each bunch with an elastic band. Don't use string or wire, as the stems will shrink as they dry, and may fall out of their tie on to the floor, causing damage and if unnoticed, the flowers will dry into strange shapes! In the majority of cases (though not all, see below), hang the bunches upside down in an airy and warm place, preferably in the dark, but at least in low light. Strong light will bleach out the colours. Allow plenty of room for air circulation between the bunches, as this will aid the drying process and prevent mould forming. Most flowers will take around a fortnight to dry. You can tell when they are dry by carefully flexing the head of the flower - if it gives, then it is not yet ready. Some flowers need to be dried upright in water - yes, I know it sounds crazy, but it's true. Flowers such as Hydrangea, Gypsophila, and Alchemilla mollis should be picked, then the stems placed in a vase with about an inch of water in the bottom. By the time the flowers have used all the water, they will have dried successfully.
Picking the flowers at the correct stage of development is very important to the success of the drying process. Hydrangeas need to be turning "papery" to the touch before drying, otherwise they will just shrivel. Most other flowers should be well developed before drying. Flowers with a papery feel (often known as "immortelles") usually dry very well. One point to note about Helichrysums (straw flowers) however, is that these are an exception to the rule of picking when fully developed. Helichrysums should be picked when the outer two or three rings of petals have developed. If the centre of the flower is on view, then it is too late to pick and dry them successfully. This is because Helichrysums carry on developing for a while after they have been picked, and will open out backwards on themselves, eventually shedding all the petals when dried.
A list of plants suitable for air drying below,
AIR DRYING
Below is a list of plants suitable for air drying. It is by no means exhaustive, and there may well be flowers which you have tried which don't appear on here! The thing to do if in doubt, and the flower doesn't appear in this list, is to experiment to see if it air dries successfully.
A
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Acacia dealbata
Acanthus
Acer
Achillea filipendulina
Achillea millefolium
Alchemilla mollis
Amaranthus
Amaryllis
Ammobium alatum
Anaphallis
Anethum
Anthemis nobilis
Artemisia
Arundinaria
Astilbe
Atriplex
Avena
Mimosa
Bear's breeches
Sycamore
Yarrow
Yarrow
-
Love Lies Bleeding
-
Sand Flower or Winged Everlasting
Pearl Everlasting
Dill
Chamomile
Wormwood, Southernwood, Old Man
Bamboo
-
Dock
Blue Grass
Flowers
Seed Heads & Flowers
Seeds
Flowers
Seed heads
Flowers
Flowers
Seed Pods
Flowers
Flowers
Seed heads
Flowers
Flowers
Stems
Flowers
Flowers & Seed Heads
Seed Heads
B
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Betula pendula
Briza
Bromus
Birch
Quaking Grass
Brome Grass
Catkins
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
C
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Calendula
Callistemon
Carlina acaulis
Carthamus tinctorius
Catananche caeroleum
Celosia
Centauria
Chrysanthemum vulgare
Cladonia
Clematis
Cortaderia selloana
Corylus avellana 'Contorta'
Craspedia globosa
Cynara scolymus/cardunculus
Cytissus
Pot Marigold
Bottle Brush
Carline Thistle
Safflower
Cupid's Dart
Cockscomb or Prince's Feather
Cornflower
Tansy
Reindeer Moss
-
Pampas Grass
Contorted Hazel
Globe Flower
Artichoke/Cardoon
Broom
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers & Seed Heads
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Whole Plant
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
Whole Stems
Flowers
Flowers & Seed Heads
Flowers & Stems
D
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Dahlia
Delphinium ajacis
Digitalis
Dipsacus fullonum
-
Larkspur
Foxglove
Teasel
Flowers
Flowers
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
E
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Echinops ritro
Eleagnus pungens
Erica
Eryngium
Globe Thistle
-
Heather
Sea Holly
Flowers
Leaves
Flowers
Flowers
F
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Foeniculum vulgare
Fennel
Seed Heads
G
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Gnaphallium
Gomphrena globosa
Gypsophila paniculata
-
Globe amaranth
Baby's Breath
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
H
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Helichrysum bracteatum
Helipterum humboldtianum
Helipterum manglesii
Hordeum jubatum
Humulus lupulus
Hydrangea
Straw Flower
-
-
Squirrel Tail Grass
Hop
-
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Seed Heads
Flowers
Flower Heads
I
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Iris foetidissima
Iris orientalis
Stinking Gladwyn
-
Seed Pods
Seed Pods
J
K
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Kochia
Silver Cypress
Leaves
L
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Lagurus
Lapsana communis
Lavandula
Liatris
Limonium
Lonas inodora
Lunaria annua
Hare's Tail Grass
Nipplewort
Lavender
Gay Feather, Blazing Star
Sea Lavender
-
Honesty
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Flowers
Seed Pods
M
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Miscanthus
Morina longiflora
Muscari
Grass
Whorl Flower
Grape Hyacinth
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
Flowers
N
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Nicandra physaloides
Nigella damascena
Nigella orientalis
Shoo Fly Plant
Love-in-a-Mist
-
Seed Pods
Flowers & Seed Pods
Seed Pods
O
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Origanum dictamnus
Onopordon acanthium
Ditany
Scotch Thistle
Flowers
Seed Pods
P
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Paeonia lactiflora
Papaver
Phlomis fruticosa
Phlomis samia/russelliana
Phormium tenax
Physalis alkengii
Protea
Peony
Poppy
Jerusalem Sage
-
New Zealand Flax
Chinese Lanterns
-
Flowers
Seed Pods
Seed Pods
Seed Pods
Seed Pods
Seed Pods
Flowers
Q
R
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Reseda lutea
Rhodanthe - See Helipterum
Rosa - Hybrid Tea Types
Rumex
Mignonette
-
Rose
Dock
Flowers
-
Flowers
Flowers and Seed Heads
S
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Salvia
Santolina
Scabiosa stellata
Sedum spectabile
Senecio cineraria
Senecio greyii
Silene pendula
Silybum marianum
Sisyrinchium striatum
Solidago canadensis
Stachys lanata
-
Cotton Lavender
Drumstick Scabious
-
Silver Leaf
-
-
Milk Thistle
Satin Flower
Golden Rod
Lambs' Lugs
Flowers
Flowers & Leaves
Seed Heads
Seed Heads
Flower Buds
Flower Buds
Flowers
Seed Pods
Seed Heads
Flowers
Flower Heads
T
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Typha angustifolia
Reed Mace ( incorrectly, Bull Rush)
Flower Heads
U
V
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Verbascum bombyciferum
Mullein
Seed Heads
W
X
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Xeranthemum annuum
-
Flowers
Y
Z
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO DRY
Zea mays
Zinnia
Sweet Corn, Corn on the Cob
-
Seed Heads
Flowers
Glycerine
This method is more suitable for foliage than flowers, but certain flowers with "bracts" (modified leaves), such as Hydrangea and Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland), will glycerine well. Both the flowers and foliage of Garrya elliptica preserve well, turning almost black. Grasses are also very successful, as is Gypsophila and Alchemilla mollis. Conifers also produce some lovely results.
Evergreens can be preserved all the year round, as long as they are kept reasonably warm during preservation, but deciduous material should be preserved between the end of June and mid-September. New spring growth will not take up the solution, nor will leaves which are turning colour in Autumn (Fall). Foliage should always be mature when preserved.
The colour of foliage preserved in glycerine is usually brown, but different types of plant material will glycerine to different shades of brown, from straw colour, through olive, to tan to nearly black, and every shade in between! The time of year that material is glycerined, and the light levels will also make a difference to the finished colour. For example, Beech leaves will preserve to a different brown when glycerined in July, than they will in August, and if they are kept in the dark whilst being preserved, they will turn a deep olive colour, but if done in light, they will turn tan colour. Experimentation is the name of the game! Laurel, White Poplar and Garrya elliptica leaves all turn black when glycerined, which is a lovely contrast in colour, from, for instance, Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland), which turn very pale straw colour. One way to test what colour foliage will turn when glycerined is to pick a leaf and allow it to dry naturally. Whatever colour it goes will be roughly the colour it will turn when preserved. Autumn is the best time to observe this process, as the results are more accurate.
Pick your foliage, and remove any damaged leaves, as these tend to show up even more when glycerined, and is a waste of glycerine! Cut the stems at an angle, and split woody stems about an inch up the stem. It is important to condition your plant material before glycerining to be sure they are drinking, as the glycerine solution is thicker than water, and will often clog stems, resulting in wilting. Place the stems in warm water, and let them drink for a couple of hours, or preferably overnight, before placing in the glycerine solution.
To make the glycerine solution, mix two parts very hot water with one part glycerine and stir thoroughly. Hot water must be used as glycerine is heavier than water, and will sink to the bottom if cold water is used. Allow the mixture to cool off until it is just warm before use. **SPECIAL NOTE - The solution can be re-used time and again. Just sieve it through a fine sieve (or a pair of old tights!) to remove any debris, and re-use it or add it to a fresh batch. Although it turns brown after use, this is perfectly normal, and won't affect the finished results.**
Once conditioned, place the stems in the glycerine solution. The time it takes to preserve the plant material very much depends on what type of plant material is being used. Some things such as Cotoneaster horizontalis will be ready in about 30 hours, whilst things like Aspidistra elatior may take two or three months! Check the material daily, you will be able to see the brown glycerine solution being taken up the veins of the leaves, and when it reaches the top, it's done! Don't allow material to stand in the solution any longer than necessary, as this will result in the glycerine "bleeding" from the leaves, and this can cause a black sooty mould to form, as well as being very messy.....
For a list of plants suitable for glycerining:
GLYCERINE
Below is a list of plants suitable for glycerining. It is by no means exhaustive, and there may well be flowers or foliage which you have tried which don't appear on here! The thing to do if in doubt, and the flower doesn't appear in this list, is to experiment to see if it glycerines successfully.
A
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Alchemilla mollis - flowers
Avena Oats Seed Heads
B
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Betula pendula Birch Catkins
Briza Quaking Grass Seed heads
Bromus Brome Grass Seed Heads
C
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Camellia
Mexican Orange Blossom Leaves
Choisya ternata - Leaves
Clematis Seed heads
Various Conifers Leaves
Cortaderia selloana Pampus Grass seed heads
Cotinus coggygria Smoke Bush Leaves
Cyperus Umbrella Grass Leaves
D
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Digitalis Foxglove Seed Heads
E
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Eleagnus pungens Leaves
Eryngium Sea Holly Flowers
Eucalyptus Gum Tree Leaves
F
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Fagus sylvatica Beech Leaves
Fatsia japonica False Castor Oil Plant
Leaves
G
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Garrya elliptica Tassel Bush Leaves and flowers
Grevillea Silk Oak Leaves
H
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Hedera Ivy Leaves & Seed Heads
Hordeum jubatum Squirrel Tail Grass
Humulus lupulus Hop Seed Heads
Hydrangea - Flowers
I
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Ilex Holly Leaves
Iris foetidissima Stinking Gladwyn seed pods
Iris orientalis - Seed pods
M
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Magnolia - Leaves
Miscanthus - Seed Heads
Molucella laevis Bells of Ireland
Flowers
Q
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Quercus ilex Oak Leaves
R
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Reseda lutea Mignonette Seed Heads
T
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME PARTS TO GLYCERINE
Tilia Lime Flower Bracts
Desiccants
This method is suitable for most flowers and foliages, except for very fleshy things such as succulents. Flowers preserved in this way will retain their shape and bright colours for a very long time, as long as they are kept airtight, and out of direct sunlight. There are several types of desiccant available for drying flowers and foliage. These include silica gel (not really a gel - it is fine crystals), silver sand, borax and cat litter (yes, really, but not very effective for delicate flowers!). Whichever type you use, the method is the same. Silica gel is the most expensive, but is also the quickest and most effective, and in my opinion, worth the extra money. It often comes with a built-in colour indicator, usually blue, and this turns to pink as the gel absorbs water. Once this happens, it means the gel must be dried out in order to work properly. You can put the silica gel into an old baking tray and pop it in the oven on a low heat until it dries out and turns blue again.
I will describe the method for silica gel, but it is roughly the same for all the different materials mentioned above. Pick the flowers and foliage which you want to dry. If you intend to make them into a picture, then cut off the stem completely at this stage. However, if you want to make an actual arrangement out of them, then leave about ½" of stem attached. (You could leave a longer stem than this, but then you would need a much deeper container, and more desiccant, which would work out very expensive.) At this stage it would be a good idea to add an artificial stem of florists' stub wire. If the stem is thick enough, push the wire up through the stem, and into the head of the flower, making sure it doesn't pop out of the top of the flower, if the stem if very thin, then push the wire into the head of the flower next to the stem. This wire will provide an anchor for you to lengthen the stem after the flowers have dried. (Just a word of caution here, which I will repeat later on - NEVER use wire stems if you are drying flowers in the microwave!!) if you don't add the wire before drying, it is very difficult to add it afterwards, as the flowers are very delicate and brittle.
Next, find a container with a lid which is about 6" deeper than your flowers or foliage, and big enough to accommodate the number of flowers you want to dry. Fill it with about 1" of silica gel, and place your flowers stem side down on the surface of the gel. Push the stems into the gel until the head touches the surface. Then, using a small spoon, start to add the gel all around and over the flowers, making sure you have added it between the petals so that there are no air gaps. Continue to add the gel until you have covered all the flowers with about a 1" layer. Most flowers and foliage will be dry in one or two days, depending on the thickness. Check by carefully uncovering a flower, and if it feels dry and papery, then it is ready. Carefully tip out the flowers, and shake out any excess gel. You can use a small paintbrush to remove any which remains. Add a false stem to the flower using a long stub wire attached to the stem with florists' stem tape (this used to be called gutta-percha, but is now made of plastic!) If you wish to store the flowers before arranging them, then they must be put into an airtight container with a little silica gel (one of those sachets you get in new handbags and electrical goods is ok for this). Once the flowers have been arranged, the arrangement should be placed in an airtight container, such as a sealed glass dome, as the flowers will begin to absorb moisture from the air again and go limp (not a pretty sight!).
For a list of plants suitable for using with desiccants:
DESICCANTS
Below is a list of plants suitable for drying with desiccants. It is by no means exhaustive, and there may well be flowers which you have tried which don't appear on here! The thing to do if in doubt, and the flower doesn't appear in this list, is to experiment to see if it dries successfully. It is possible to dry practically every type of flower with desiccants. The most suitable types, however, are those with fairly simple flowers, as more complex flowers make it difficult to get the desiccant in between the petals, and this can result in uneven drying. Also, fleshy leaved plants, such as succulents, are not really suitable, as they tend to rot before they dry. Both the flowers and foliage of plants can be dried using desiccants.
A
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Alstroemeria Peruvian Lily
Amaryllis Hippeastrum
Anemone -
B
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Betula pendula Birch
Briza Quaking Grass
Bromus Brome Grass
C
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Calendula Pot Marigold
Callistemon Bottle Brush
Carlina acaulis Carline Thistle
Carthamus tinctorius Safflower
Catananche caeroleum Cupid's Dart
Celosia Cockscomb or Prince's Feather
Centauria Cornflower
Chrysanthemum vulgare Tansy
Cladonia Reindeer Moss
Clematis -
Cortaderia selloana Pampas Grass
Corylus avellana 'Contorta' Contorted Hazel
Craspedia globosa Globe Flower
Cynara scolymus/cardunculus Artichoke/Cardoon
Cytissus Broom
D
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Dahlia
Delphinium ajacis
Digitalis
Dipsacus fullonum
-
Larkspur
Foxglove
Teasel
E
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Echinops ritro Globe Thistle
Eleagnus pungens -
Erica Heather
Eryngium Sea Holly
F
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Foeniculum vulgare Fennel
G
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Gnaphallium -
Gomphrena globosa Globe amaranth
Gypsophila paniculata Baby's Breath
H
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Helichrysum bracteatum Straw Flower
Helipterum humboldtianum -
Helipterum manglesii =
Hordeum jubatum Squirrel Tail Grass
Humulus lupulus Hop
Hydrangea -
I
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Iris foetidissima Stinking Gladwyn
Iris orientalis -
K
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Kochia Silver Cypress
L
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Lagurus Hare's Tail Grass
Lapsana communis Nipplewort
Lavandula Lavender
Liatris Gay Feather, Blazing Star
Limonium Sea Lavender
Lonas inodora -
Lunaria annua Honesty
M
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Miscanthus Grass
Morina longiflora Whorl Flower
Muscari Grape Hyacinth
N
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Nicandra physaloides Shoo Fly Plant
Nigella damascena Love-in-a-Mist
Nigella orientalis -
O
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Origanum dictamnus Ditany
Onopordon acanthium Scotch Thistle
P
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Paeonia lactiflora Peony
Papaver Poppy
Phlomis fruticosa Jerusalem Sage
Phlomis samia/russelliana -
Phormium tenax New Zealand Flax
Physalis alkengii Chinese Lanterns
Protea -
R
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Reseda lutea Mignonette
Rhodanthe - See Helipterum -
Rosa - Hybrid Tea Types Rose
Rumex Dock
S
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Salvia -
Santolina Cotton Lavender
Scabiosa stellata Drumstick Scabious
Sedum spectabile -
Senecio cineraria Silver Leaf
Senecio greyii -
Silene pendula -
Silybum marianum Milk Thistle
Sisyrinchium striatum Satin Flower
Solidago canadensis Golden Rod
Stachys lanata Lambs' Lugs
T
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Typha angustifolia Reed Mace
(incorrectly, Bull Rush)
V
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Verbascum bombyciferum Mullein
X
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Xeranthemum annuum -
Z
BOTANICAL NAME ENGLISH COMMON NAME
Zea mays Sweet Corn, Corn on the Cob
Zinnia -
Pressing
Pressing flowers is something we have probably all done as children. I can remember pressing four-leaf clover leaves between the pages of books when I was a child, and sometimes I still come across them, brittle and faded, as I look through an old book.
Most flowers and leaves are suitable for pressing, with the exception of those with bulky centres, or leaves which are very fleshy, such as succulents. Succulent leaves tend to just squash when placed in the press. Odd shaped flowers such as daffodils need to be cut in half and opened out before pressing, and thick flowers such as Chrysanthemums need to have the calyx reduced in thickness (don't take off too much, or the flower will disintegrate). Single petals can also be used, and reassembled when making your picture. Cut the flowers and foliage you want to press when the weather is dry. Any water trapped in the flowers before pressing will turn them mouldy. You can buy commercially made flower presses, which are effective for a small amount of flowers, but if you wanted to do a lot of pressing, you would be better off making your own press from two pieces of plywood, about 2 or 3 feet square, with four holes drilled in the corners. You will need four coach bolts with wing nuts for tightening the press. Small commercially made presses, such as those sold for children, often have layers of blotting paper, alternating with layers of corrugated cardboard. Discard the corrugated cardboard straight away, as this leaves lines across your flowers, rendering them useless. Substitute it with plain cardboard. If using a home-made press, you will need layers of blotting paper, interspersed with thick layers of newspaper.
Once you have cut your flowers and foliage, you will need to begin at the bottom layer of your press. You will need several thickness of newspaper, then a layer of blotting paper. Place your flowers onto the blotting paper so that they are not touching each other. Always use flowers of the same thickness in each layer, so that they press evenly. Cover the flowers with another layer of blotting paper, then several more layers of newspaper. Keep doing this until you have finished all your flowers. Finally, add the top of the press, and tighten the bolts. After a few days, tighten the bolts again, as the flowers shrink as they dry. Flowers can take between one and three weeks to dry.
There's no list of plants suitable for pressing, as most flowers and foliages can be pressed, with those exceptions stated at the beginning of this section.
Microwaving
It is possible to dry flowers using a microwave oven, and this is incredibly quick, taking minutes rather than days or weeks. As there are so many variations in ovens, there is no one recipe for using them for drying flowers. Experimentation is the name of the game! Obviously, you should start with a low setting, and only set your oven for a few seconds at a time. Different settings will produce different colour variations. For best results, use silica gel or silver sand, using the method described above, to support the flowers whilst drying, to retain their shape. ALWAYS use a non-metallic container, and NEVER use wired flowers in a microwave oven. There are various books on microwave drying which offer guidelines, and these should be available in your local library.
There's no list of plants suitable for microwaving, as most flowers and foliages can be microwaved, with the exception of very thick, fleshy leaves, which contain too much water to dry successfully.
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