Brooklyn Queens Land Trust

Common Problems on Indoor Plants -University of Rhode Island

Common Symptoms of Poor Plant Health:

Common Problems on Indoor Plants


Living plants are being used in great numbers and variety in all types of indoor environments. Although most indoor environments are satisfactory for the maintenance of the health of plants for relatively long periods, problems do occasionally occur. Most of the problems are not due to infectious diseases, caused by fungi, bacteria, etc., but result instead from imbalances in the environment or from care practices that give rise to some plant stress. Inability to recognize symptoms, determine the causes of stress and promptly initiate corrective care techniques can result in unhealthy plants.

Common Symptoms of Poor Plant Health:

Determining the cause of indoor plant problems can sometimes require skilled laboratory diagnosis or site consultations. However, most problems are relatively simple to diagnose if one will remember that various stress producing elements of an environment often affect the plant simultaneously. Detecting all of the imbalanced elements of the environment is the key to proper diagnosis and initiation of corrective measures. Many of the "symptoms" of problems on indoor plants are not specific. In other words, a certain symptom may be distinct and striking, but it may result from any number of imbalanced environmental elements. As you attempt to improve your diagnostic skills, do not be misled into thinking a distinct symptom should always have a specific cause.

Use the following diagnostic checklist as a guide to begin your analysis and plan for corrections.

Symptom Possible Causes

Brown or scorched Leaf Tips
A) Poor root health from overwatering, excessive soil dryness (especially between waterings), excessive fertilizer or other soluble salts in the soil.
B) Specific nutrient toxicities (such as fluoride, copper or boron).
C) Low humidity.
D) Pesticide or mechanical injury.

Leaf spots, blotches, blemishes, blisters, or scabby spots

A) Intense light (sunburn) associated with a recent move of the plant or excessive soil dryness and wilting.
B) Chilling injury (below 50 degrees F).
C) Chemical spray injury.
D) Overwatering.
E) Fungal or bacterial infections (rare unless plants have recently come from a field or greenhouse)

Foliage yellow-green; older leaves

A) Insufficient fertilizer, especially nitrogen.
B) Poor root health due to pot-bound growth, compacted soil, or poor drainage.
C) Insufficient light.

Foliage yellow-green; newer leaves

A) Soil pH (acidity) imbalance.
B) Minor nutrient imbalance.

Foliage yellow-green; general

A) Too much light.
B) Insufficient fertilization.
C) High temperatures, especially when associated with dryness.
D) Insect infestation or root rot disease.

Leaf drop

A) Poor root health from overwatering, excessive dryness, excessive fertilizer or other soluble salts in the soil, compacted soil or potbound roots.
B) Sudden change in light, temperature, or relative humidity.
C) Root rot disease.

Wilting or drooping of foliage

A) Poor root health from overwatering, excessive dryness, excessive fertilizer or other soluble salts in the soil, compacted soil, or a poorly drained container.
B) A toxic chemical poured into soil.
Roots brown in color, soft or rotted; roots with tissue that can easily be "slipped off" leaving behind the stringlike center tissues; roots massed at top or bottom of pot. Associated with one or more of the symptoms noted above.

A) Poor root health from overwatering, excessive dryness, excessive fertilizer or other soluble salts in the soil, compacted soil, or a poorly drained container.
B) A toxic chemical poured into soil.
C) Over-or underwatering.

Yellowed leaves with tiny speckling; leaves later bronzed and drying; webbing noted near growing points.

A) Spider-mite infestation.

Leaves covered with a sticky substance; dark mold growing on leaves; tiny brown or white objects seen on leaves or in crotches of branches; leaf drop or branch dieback; leaf or growing point distortion.

A) Scale or mealy bug infestation.


Adapted from Nancy J. Taylor, Stephen Nameth and Jim Chatfield, Ohio State University Extension, 2000


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pesticides are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels. Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.

When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials. Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for the state of use.

The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury or property damage.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For more information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island; Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.



University of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension provides equal program opportunities.

Growing Conditions for Indoor Plants

Growing Conditions for Indoor Plants


Notes for Table

Light (minimum light requirements of the various species)

* High

Bright, direct light or sunlight through unobstructed south, east or west window.

Within 4 feet of window 300 footcandles or greater.

* Medium

Bright, indirect light, 4 - 10 feet from an east, south, or west window.

No direct sunlight/ Directly in front of an unobstructed north window 100 - 300 footcandles.

* Low

10 feet or more away from a window - no direct light. Encompasses the greatest area of most interiors where plants are to be included. Directly in front of an obstructed north window. 25 - 100 footcandles.

Water

* Moist

Indicates the plant requires frequent waterings - soil surface should not be dry.

* Dry

Infrequent waterings. For pots 6" diameter or less, soil surface should be dry to the touch before rewatering.
For containers of greater diameter, media should be dry 1" to 2" below the surface (when water is required, apply thoroughly until excess drains out the bottom.

Temperature

* Cool
Temperature of 60 degrees F, with variations from 50 degrees F to 70 degrees F. Night temperature 50 degrees F. to 60 degrees F.

*Warm
Temperature of 75 degrees F with variations from 65 degrees Fto 85 degrees F. Night temperatures 65 degrees F. to 75 degrees F (temperatures at night should decrease about 10 degrees F from normal day temperatures).

Botanical Name Common Name Light Water Temperature
High Medium Low Moist Dry Cool Warm
Common Foliage Plants
Adiantun raddianum Maidenhair fern • • • •
Agave spp. Century plant • • •
Aglaonema (spp.) modestum Chinese evergreen • • •
Aloe barbadensis Medicine plant • • •
Araucaria heterophylla Norfolk Island pine • • •
Ardista crenata Coralberry • • •
Asparagus setaceus 'Sprengeri' Asparagus fern • • •
Aspidistra elatior Cast-iron plant • • • • •
Asplenium nidus Bird's-nest fern • • •
Brassaia actinophylla Umbrella tree • • •
Calathea makoyana Peacock plant • • •
Caryota urens Fishtail palm • • • •
Chamaedorea elegans Parlor palm • • •
Chamaedorea erumpens Bamboo palm • • •
Chlorophytum comosum Spider plant • • •
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens Areca palm • • • •
Cissus antarctica Kangaroo vine • • •
Cissus rhombifolia Grape ivy • • •
Citrus spp. • • •
Clusia rosea Signature plant • • •
Codiaeum variegatum and vars. Croton • • •
Coffea arabica Coffee tree • • •
Cordyline terminalis Ti plant • • •
Crassula argentea Jade plant • • •
Cycas revoluta Sago palm • • •
Cyperus spp. Umbrella plant • • •
Cyrtomium falcatum Holly fern • • •
Dieffenbachia spp. Sumb cane • • • •
Dizygotheca elegantissima False aralia • • •
Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' Corn plant • • • •
Dracaena reflexa Pleomele • • •
Epipremnum arueum and vars. Pothos • • •
Fatshedera lizei Fatshedera • • •
Fatsia japonica Japanese aralia • • •
Ficus spp. Fig. rubber plant • • •
Fittonia verschaffeltii Nerve plant • • •
Hedera helix English ivy • • • •
Howea forsterana Kentia palm • • •
Hoya carnosa Wax plant • • • •
Iresine herbstii Bloodleaf • • •
Livistona chinensis Fan palm • • •
Maranta leuconeura Prayer plant • • •
Monstera deliciosa Split-leaf philodendron • • •
Nephrolepsis exaltata Boston fern • • •
Pandanus veitchii Screw pine • • •
Peperomia spp. • • •
Persea americana Avocado • • •
Philodendron selloum Saddle-leaf philodendron • • •
P. scandens oxycardium Heart-leaf philodendron • • •
Phoenix roebelenii Dwarf date palm • • •
Pilea cardierei Aluminum plant • • •
Pittosporium tobira 'Variegata' Pittosporum • • •
Platycerium spp. Staghorn fern • • •
Plectranthus australis Swedish ivy • • •
Podocarpus marcophyllus Podocarpus • • •
Polypodium spp. Polypody • • •
Polyscias balfouriana Polyscias • • • •
Rhapis excelsa Lady palm • • • •
Rhoeo spathacea Oyster plant • • •
Rumohra adiantiformis Leatherleaf fern • • •
Sansevieria trifasciata Snake plant • • •
Schefflera arboricola Umbrella tree (schefflera) • • •
Spathiphyllum spp. White flag • • •
Sphaeropteris cooperi Tree fern • • •
Syngonium spp. • • •
Tolmiea menziesii Piggyback plant • • •
Tradescantia (incl. Zebrina) Wandering Jew • • •
Yucca elephantipes Yucca plant • • •
Common Flowering Plants
Azalea • • •
Begonia • • •
Chrysanthemum • • •
Cyclamen • • •
Lilies • • •
Poinsettia • • •
Primula • • •
Common Bromels (high light in winter to flower)
Aechmea miniata discolor Vase plant • • •
Aechmea fasciata Urn plant • • •
Billbergia nutans Queen's-tears • • •
Billbergia pyramidalis • • •
Cryptanthus spp. Earth-star • • •
Noeregelia carolinae 'Tricolor' • • •
Tillandsia cyanea • • •
Tillandsia ionantha • • •



Adapted from Russell C. Mott, Bailey Hortorium, Cornell University, 2001


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pesticides are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels. Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.

When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials. Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for the state of use.

The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury or property damage.

Propagating House Plants by Cutting

Propagating House Plants by Cutting


Plant propagation is fun and easy in the home and is a good way to increase your number of plants inexpensively. Plants produced from cuttings will be identical to the parent plant, though there are a few exceptions. Plants can reproduce asexually from pieces of stem, leaves and roots because the cambium layer, a tissue located just beneath the plant’s surface, forms a callus tissue once it is cut from which new roots and shoots can develop.


It is important to provide the correct environment for rooting cuttings and to keep them healthy during the process. Select propagating material that is healthy, free of disease and insect problems and of a good green color. Good techniques and proper environment cannot make up for use of poorly selected cutting material.


Adequate light must be provided as well, although cuttings and newly rooted plants must be protected from direct sunlight. Intense light levels cause excess water loss and cuttings may wilt rapidly. Remember, there are no roots on the cutting initially that can take up water.


High relative humidity of 90 to 100 percent is necessary when propagating plants. This decreases evaporative loss of water from the leaves so the cutting will not dry out. Humidity can be maintained around the cuttings by covering the container and cuttings with a plastic bag or 'tent.' Once cuttings are rooted, this covering can be removed.


Almost any container can be used for propagating plants if it provides drainage. Make sure containers are clean. Use a mixture of equal parts of perlite and sphagnum peat moss as a good rooting media that provides moisture retention, good air and water drainage and permits roots to penetrate easily. Keep the media moist, but not soggy during rooting.


Root-inducing hormones are beneficial to use. Dipping the base of the cutting in this material helps obtain uniformity in rooting and development of a heavier root system. Avoid using too much on each cutting as this may inhibit rooting. Remember, hormones are not a substitute for good propagation techniques and using healthy plant material. Root-inducing hormones are available at garden centers.


Stem Cutting:
Probably the most common method of propagating plants in the home is by stem cuttings. Pruning an old plant to acquire cuttings helps recondition the plant and causes new branches to form. Each cutting should be one to three inches long and have two or three leaves attached. Cut 1/4 inch below the node and pull off the leaf at the node. Insert the cutting in the media so this node is covered with soil.


Some common plants that can be propagated using this method include boxwood, citrus, coleus, croton, fittonia, some peperomias, prayer plant, velvet plant and zebra plant.


Cane Cutting:
Plants such as Chinese evergreen, Dieffenbachia and Dracaena that develop cane-like stems can be propagated by cane cuttings (actually a type of stem cutting that has no leaves). A stem that has lost many older leaves can be cut into one-inch long sections, each including at least two 'circular rings' (leaf scars). Between these rings are dormant buds that will grow into new plants. The piece can either be laid horizontally on the soil or set vertically so that half the piece is covered with soil. It may take some time for these pieces to root and sprout.


Leaf Cuttings:
The leaf blade, or the leaf blade and its stem, is used to propagate a few plants such as Rex begonia, African violet, Sansevieria, Jade plant and some peperomias. Roots and shoots form at the base of the leaf; the original leaf does not become a part of the new plant, but is usually discarded when the new plant is transplanted. It usually takes longer for this kind of cutting to root than stem cuttings.


Leaf-Bud Cutting:
This cutting consists of the leaf blade, the leaf stem and a short section of stem with the attached bud. This method can be used to produce many plants from a single parent plant--at least twice as many as produced from stem cuttings, though it may take more time for new growth to develop.
These cuttings are best made from material having well-developed buds and healthy, actively growing leaves. Pothos, philodendron, Jade plant, ivies and most of the plants propagated from stem cuttings can be propagated this way




For more information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island; Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.